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Having the spent the last two days stripping the paint from our old front door, it transpires that it is pretty much more wood filler than wood.
Oh, and the rot too - there's LOTS of rot.
So, I've cut out as much of the rot as I could and replaced it with sound wood. I've used a hardener on what's left and now I have fill in some of the holes. Unfortunately the previous occupiers filled A LOT of the dodgy wood with wood filler, most of which has now fallen out.
I have used Milliput in the past but some of the voids are pretty large so it could prove expensive. Is there a decent epoxy filler that comes in a tub rather than a small tube?
For example, would this do? The review isn't promising:
https://www.toolstation.com/big-boy-filler-hybrid-epoxy/p68945
Would having a rotten front door not be a bad thing from a security perspective?
I would suggest you mix up your own filler. Two part epoxy + micro balloons (these bulk it out and make it easier to sand) + saw dust (to really bulk it out). Just lay it flat so it will self level. Masking tape if you need to recreate the edge profile.
I used this during lockdown..... Seemed very good.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/ronseal-high-performance-wood-filler-natural-550g/51811?tc=AT8&ds_kid=92700058176434275&ds_rl=1249416&gclid=CjwKCAjwy7CKBhBMEiwA0Eb7avPrpkRDTQ3E6i5lDFRroBUCFkBpsy7KOevF2Dt6Kr_kjhfuheAOeRoCJ10QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
*vaguely related.
When repairing large bits of my windows I found that drilling holes into the good wood and inserting dowels to help form a sort of frame for the filler to stick to helped. (*I am not a professional)
Take door off and lay flat first.
Door needs to be clean and dry. Has the advantage of adding window panel or panels to the door.
Or November the 5th is not far away, and get a new door.
The Ronseal stuff sharkbait linked to is what my local hardware shop sells, works fine.
To be honest two part filler is two part filler, if a local car parts place has a better deal on body filler use that, and either use dowels as towzer said or just screw screws in for the same purpose.
If the door is so borked you need to bulk the filler out then maybe it is new door time?
When repairing large bits of my windows I found that drilling holes into the good wood and inserting dowels to help form a sort of frame for the filler to stick to helped. (*I am not a professional)
Great technique. Will defo help sure things up.
I use this stuff for various filling and sculpting(I think Sharkbait linked to it above but link doesn't work for me)
It's excellent. Sets nice and quick and easy to sand back to flat(wear a mask)
As above with the Ronseal 2 pack wood filler, and ive even used car filler in the past.
Especially handy in shopfitting, where surfaces are to be faced in melamine and the like. Fills in all the screws and gaps etc visible from construction and provides a flat surface
sharkbait
I used this during lockdown….. Seemed very good.
oldnick
The Ronseal stuff sharkbait linked to is what my local hardware shop sells, works fine
kayak23
I use this stuff for various filling and sculpting(I think Sharkbait linked to it above but link doesn’t work for me)
dyna-ti
As above with the Ronseal 2 pack wood filler,
Thanks everyone - that stuff was just the ticket. I'd avoided it because having used Ronseal 'normal' filler in the past I'd assumed it was just more of the same useless gloop. Should have read the fine print more closely, would have saved me a LOT of time!
If the door is so borked you need to bulk the filler out then maybe it is new door time?
Well, yes, but a) getting a decent carpenter round here to quote unless it's for fitted alcove bookcases for every room is nigh-on impossible, b) I've already started so I'll finish, c) have you seen the price of new doors, d) I mean, really, have you seen them?, e) our house is old and wonky and would therefore need a bespoke door, not off the peg, and f) no, honestly, have you seen how much they cost?
our house is old and wonky and would therefore need a bespoke door, not off the peg, and f) no, honestly, have you seen how much they cost?
Posted 7 minutes ago
Have you tried architectural salvage ?. I stripped back my internal doors(old straight grain Douglas fir) but i was missing two that had been replaced at some time. House is over 100 years old and all the widths are 800mm+
Didn't find the exact style i was looking for but the ones they did have were about £150 a go. You just have to be prepared to do some heavyweight stripping* and be happy with a few pin holes. But any of those doors they had were proper mortise and tenon jointed in very good timber, and would cost you a pretty penny new or bespoke.
* Never dip and strip a door, it destroys the glue in the joints and causes the timbers to shrink.