that is also not the boiler guide. it is the guide for the programmer (Danfoss 3060).
I am assuming someone has heard from pook recently? Anyone in his vicinity notice unusual flickering lights?
I can see flames in Sheffield from here, and I'm in Pembrokeshire at the moment.
I fitted the same thermostat last week. As said, only two wires need connecting, it's a simple switch, you leave the timer permanently on and set the programme on the stat. Make c safe and tuck it out the way.
I'm alive!
But which two wires go where???
I've been busy all day doing dad things and biking
Connect 2 in the danfoss controller to "A" in the stat. Connect "B" to the boiler. Which wires are which will depend on how it has been done in the controller which is why I need a picture of the inside.
Rich
Going to get that later for you rich - stuck at work all day now unfortunately. Later I'll be tinkering with a little lad asleep in the room - that's where it all is....
Right... The timer
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Don't start connecting anything without tracing the original 3 wires. There should be an earth there too.
They were, most probably, Live, Switched Live, Neutral and earth.
Now, you will only want Live and Switched live to connect to the new stat.
It doesnt really matter which way they go round, but to do it properly, permanent Live should be to Terminal A, and switched live to B.
Disconnect Neutral at the programmer end.
You do realise to turn the programmer heating to 'On' at all times?
I'm not mucking about until I'm 100%.
You do realise that with chuffing 3 days away on here you could have had someone in to do it for you?
Is this type of wiring not subject to all sorts of building regs / legal restrictions?
Sorry not one for excessive pedantry about these things but boiler + electrics.. Eeeek
I have time in hand to learn. Why would I deny myself the knowledge, or at the very least the opportunity to learn something?
Ok Pook, this is easy.
Firstly, ensure the power is off. This requires you to either turn off at the switch or set the dial knob to H+W Off. Either of these options will ensure the stat. cable is dead at the stat. end. There are live terminals inside the Danfoss box so do not touch anything in there. (There is no need).
Looking inside the Danfoss box, you'll see the three core from your stat: this is the wire on the left. You'll see that the blue/red/yellow wires go to terminals 1, 2 and 3 respectively with the terminals being numbered from the left.
The cabling is correct at this end. You can reassemble the Danfoss box.
At the stat end, put the red wire into terminal A and the yellow wire into terminal B. The blue is NOT REQUIRED. Trim any exposed copper off and tape it up. It's a neutral and is not dangerous but I wouldn't cut it off in case it's required in the future.
Ensure the connections are tight, insert the batteries and switch the power back on. Ensure the Danfoss is set for the boiler to come on (ie H is on) and everything will be fine.
My email is in my profile. If you want to drop me a mail I'll let you have my phone number and I'll talk it through with you.
Rich.
Brilliant - cheers rich. I'll have a look tonight.
Just to address the "earth" issue. You'll find that almost every stat. is double insulated and thus doesn't require an earth. What a lot of people do is cut the earth off in the cable. If you look closely at the stat. end of the cable, you'll probably see a fourth conductor which is has no insulation around it and which has been cut back to the outer (grey) insulation.
You don't need to do anything with the earth.
Rich.
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We have central heating!!!! Rich, you are star. Thank you.
You owe Rich a pint or 12.
Already one step ahead of you gifboy! Rich, ygm.
I love stw for this kind of thing.
