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..and it's a bit soaky now.
I've consulted google, but thought best to check here to make sure I've got it right. 🙂
1. Turn off water.
2. Undo screw cap thing.
3. Take off valve at pipe.
4. Dry myself off.
5. Wrap tape around everything.
6. Stick back on.
The plumber has got to come out soon to move the pipes away from wall and fit a TRV and rad, so just a temp fix needed. (Plus I can't get hold of him right now).
Ta.
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You dont mention what heating system you have but most likely there will be another step in there after turning off water and opening the pipe work .
* drain heating system*
Otherwise it will get a whole lot wetter when you open it,
Have you tried just nipping it up?
if it's a temp fix until it's done properly by the plumber, you might use this instead
Listen to trail_rat or you may get far more water than you were expecting
Edit to add, you may wonder how I know this? When renovating my house the room was gutted and many floorboards were up so I thought I didn't care about a bit of water (I didn't) so I just took the valve off and let it drain. I temporarily had an indoor fountain
You'll need to drain the system down. Get a bit of hose and find a drain valve on one of the downstairs rads.
Turn off all of your other radiator valves around the house so the water stays I them. Open the drain valve , then slowly open the air bleed valve on the rad you're working on. Hopefully then you can sort the TRV without flooding everywhere
Pah!............ ignore all these naysayers.
These are the steps you need to take....*
1. Install filling loop under boiler.
2. Open valve at filling loop....all the way
3. Set up video camera near leaking radiator.
4. Remove leaking valve from radiator
5. Post video.
*not really**
**REALLY!, NOT REALLY!
Temporary for me would be
Bend the pipe so it kinks shut.
Carry on as normal
PTFE tape isnt really the thing you want.
The compression fitting (that is what holds the lockshield on to the copper pipe) seals by the deformation of the soft copper olive in the brass lockshield socket. If you've knocked it, you've just upset the metal on metal seal.
If you dont have a new olive to hand, after doing the draining down above, undo the compression nut and slide it down the pipe, make sure the lockshield socket is clean, lightly emery the olive (which will probably not want to move) and pipe work (removing paint as necessary) before and after, place the lockshield back on the pipe end over the olive, bring the compression nut back up to the lockshield align and tighten. A good squoosh tighten so the olive will deform and reseal.
How co-incidental.
I have a stuck/tight valve at one end of a Rad (the other end is a TRV).
I've tried turning it with pliers but am scared of wrenching it off and having the same issues (i am Reg Prescott of a DIY level). Mrs K is starting to complain about the cold.
Any ideas other than calling a plumber for perhaps the most trivial of jobs?
the most trivial of jobs?
It's only trivial until there is black gungy water spraying all over the room. Get a plumber and have a happy life 🙂
Plumber contacted. Too much new plasterboard to 'learn' this particular man skill.
Thanks anyhoo.
Last time I had a leak like that which wasn't resolved with PTFE tape or a new olive the plumber just used a blob of Plumber's Putty (aka Plumbers Mait) on it and that sorted it nicely.
I wouldn't bother draining the system or taking anything apart, just nip the nut up a bit. Looks like 15mm pipe so should take a bit of tightening. Just tighten up a wee bit at a time, don't swing on the wrench.
I'd only be draining the system if nipping it up didn't work.
You only need two spanners and 30 seconds to give it a nip.
It spins the whole valve when I do that and didn't stop the drip. Ta though.
It spins the whole valve when I do that and didn't stop the drip. Ta though.
Hold the valve body with a pair of pipe grips or an adjustable spanner when trying to nip it up.
Where is the drip coming from? Is it the valve itself, the pipe to valve connection or the rad to valve connection?
This thread could turn out to be a classic.
Ah just looked at the pic again and realised the valve isn't connected to a radiator.
[i]just looked at the pic again and realised the valve isn't connected to a radiator. [/i]
You're a professional plumber, aren't you, spotting that sort of detail?
It spins the whole valve when I do that and didn't stop the drip. Ta though.
Thats why you need a second spanner. I feel like your dad.
Immensely proud? I did invoke the molgrips, but the whole lot moves. Plumber will sort; that's why he's a plumber and I'm a project monkey.
you see, you did not want to do that
(I've done similar and worse. Trouble is separated in time by sufficient number of years that each time feels just like the first time. But even I know that if you try to tighten a something on something that moves, you need to stop it from moving so you can tighten it. )
FFS I did!!
Look even the pic on the packet shows it being used for your type of leak... 😀
[img] http://kingfisher.scene7.com/is/image/Kingfisher/5000403106069_01c [/img]
FFS I did!!
Did you take the TRV bit off first?
Or maybe, if you're having the plumber remove the pipe anyway, I'd do as joshvegas suggests and just bend it over until you experience the cessation of moistness.
Don't bend it over. If the pipe splits you're stuffed.
I have a handy selection of 15 and 22mm plastic Speedfit stop ends for all my emergency plumbing misadventures. Just lob it on instead of the drippy bit until I can work out what the hell is going on.