Forum menu
Brilliant day yesterday.... After an abortive attempt to wade through 2km of thigh deep snow to Bollis the day before, we decided the brace the hairpins of doom to go Sorstulen. We did Goddis(Godis?) which is an utterly mind blowing 4 or 5 pitches of superb ice. Even accessing it was exciting....
3 big abseils followed by hand over hand down some daisy chained slings off a hastily placed ice screw when it transpired that the last abseil was indeed longer than 200ft!
We split the first pitch into 2, which was a good call as it meant my partner could go crazy with the screws on what was only his second day leading ice...
I was so chuffed to lead the main pitch, calves burning and desperately wanting to rest on an ice screw ( but didn't). Used all 22 of them again. No pictures of that bit, but P3 was very pretty in the sunset ..
Pitch four took a while and it ended up being a twelve hour day. Glad we took four head torches 🙂
What was so brilliant was the general comfort and lack of stress, apart from the drive. The belays were huge, the ice was beautiful plastic, the temperature was balmy and the wind was non existent. So different from "full" winter conditions. Also the ice screws seemed generally bomber. Reversed a couple after hitting air or powder, but generally excellent. Not that I was planning on falling, but it gave me the option of resting or retreating if....
Today was a late start, and very short as the temp has dropped to minus 10 and we didn't manage to dry our kit our properly overnight.
That's fab Generalissimo!
Rest day skiing yesterday. Temperature was minus fifteen this morning so we chose sunny Hundefossen. It was superb. Lead 3 routes including this one which really stretched me. Awesome place.
Just wish I could have got photos from a better position as the light was beautiful
Ace pics Generalist. When the drive is sketchier than the climb you’ve had a pretty exciting day
Good few days of climbing there 🙂
So, Cogne.....
A guy I occasionally climb with in the Peak is suggesting Cogne in Jan/Feb. He's very keen and psyched and I enjoy climbing with him, but....
He's a helluva lot better than me and I've always drawn the line at ice/alpine with a partnership that is significantly mismatched. Too much risk when the belays can be worthless and moving together may be needed.
OTOH it might be an opportunity to do some amazing stuff. I get the impression the routes are much more serious than Lillehammer, but bolt belays abound.
Then if course there's climate change. Various people I spoke to last year say that Cogne rarely works these days, and that the few In routes get mobbed, applecored and loads of falling ice.
Tell me about Cogne for ice climbers of limited ability and even more limited self confidence...
Having only been in the summer, all I can tell you is that it's a beautiful area!
What do you mean serious? There's a lot of bolted belays and a lot of one pitch stuff. Does he have anything he specifically wants to do?
Serious...you'll know more about that than me, but i'd start with
- Long
- Sustained
- High avi danger
- Tricky/ long descent
- Long approach
- Small stances with natural pro
- Time critical/ sun damage
- Not great pro
As a gross generalisation fit example, I felt that the routes I did around Lillehammer ( eg Godis) were relatively unserious.short walk-ins, big huge trees, shade, low Avi danger, bomber screws, easy descents. Whereas Cogne seems much more alpine, with all that that implies..
Does he have anything he specifically wants to do?
He will indeed as he's been there a fair bit, so I guess he has done all the mellow stuff.. For example last year he did Supercouloir* which is way out of my league.
* Not at Cogne, obvs
[img] 
[/img]
This appeared today. Anyone looking for winter inspiration, look no further!
Hamish Frost? Jack Frost's Scottish brother...🙃
This appeared today. Anyone looking for winter inspiration, look no further!
There was a funny thread, I think on UKC, where Guy and somebody were discussing stuff and somebody pitched in with a scathing comment about middle-aged bimbling nobodies.
Made me laugh.
On another note.... my box of new ice screws arrived last month and I've booked flights to Oslo for February. To say I'm excited would be a hideous understatement.
And they're off!
Some routes done yesterday but it was pretty marginal. Much snowier today. Couldn't really be bothered finding a partner so I went for a wee run including the Twin Ribs and Fiacaill Ridge. I'd forgotten how much fun they can be, taken direct with one axe. A bit of hooking, a bit of jamming, some big flakes, some steep bits but never too hard to escape to easy ground.
Conditions were surprisingly good, rime, some ice and exposed turf frozen but by the time I'd dropped back down under the crags it was raining.
Can't argue with that for October.
I did a spot of (Very) easy winter climbing back in the day - mostly just seconding I/II. I actually really enjoyed it a lot, and felt super safe with a very competent partner who knew what he was doing. At the time I was quite keen to push into grade III and more mountaineering type routes.
Laid off it for quite a few years as I got more into the bike side of outdoor stuff - went on a Winter hillwalk a couple years ago and had to be coaxed up some very simple scrambly steps as I was quaking in my boots the whole time. For some reason now even the sight of snowy crags in the mountains sets me wrong a bit and makes me feel a bit wobbly. Super weird. My (qualifications coming out of his A**e) Alpine climber mate has offered to take me up some easy gullies again if they materialise later in winter and I'm genuinely worried about it!
Its the time for optimism again... I lost an ice screw last winter and haven't yet replaced it because, well, there'd need to be ice to get used.
My (qualifications coming out of his A**e) Alpine climber mate has offered to take me up some easy gullies again if they materialise later in winter and I'm genuinely worried about it!
If your mate is that qualified then leave the worrying to him. 😀
Or just don't go, it's meant to be fun!
Looks like winter is making a return to the higher crags this weekend. Anyone else got plans to get out in the hills?
I can't do this weekend but have been watching the forecast for 22nd November with interest.
I can't do this weekend but have been watching the forecast for 22nd November with interest.
The long range is looking cold enough for the higher venues at least. Would be nice to get a couple of weekends on the trot.
Also, my sister in-law is up that weekend so I'll be looking for excuses...
Laid off it for quite a few years as I got more into the bike side of outdoor stuff - went on a Winter hillwalk a couple years ago and had to be coaxed up some very simple scrambly steps as I was quaking in my boots the whole time
Mate. I was all over the mountains 25 years ago, I went back again last winter with my nephew, the first couple of trips had winter hazards and I was a right mess. The time you take away from it racks up at the same speed as your age, so it's a double whammy.
Tried to post some pics but not having much luck.
Did Castle Wall on the Shelterstone yesterday. A pleasant route, no great shakes but great scenery and location. Nice to not be in the Northern Corries. Got to the top just as a thaw set in and got absolutely soaked in freezing rain on the way back. Things looking pretty settled for this weekend at least.
I was sat in my local pub with a pint of Guinness watching the rugby about 3.5 hrs after topping out. At half time I was thinking the day couldn't get much better...
[url= https://i.ibb.co/F4x2T5R5/PXL-20251116-103509981.jp g" target="_blank">https://i.ibb.co/F4x2T5R5/PXL-20251116-103509981.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
Hmmmmm
Currently in Corbridge debating whether to drive north for my planned week in Aviemore or sack it off and head home to Manchester....
BBC forecast looks heinous for the weekend. Met check looks a bit better, but still pretty bad. Monday Tuesday looks reasonable on met check
Got tentative arrangements to climb with someone on Monday, Tue....
Can't decide if it's worth the huge drive.
OTOH.... I defo won't climb any ice in Manchester!
What did you do?
1. You won't get much done in Manchester
2 If you're waiting for a perfect week you're asking for disappointment. Some good days is ok.
3. You have an arrangement. Don't mess around
You should go. I'm committed to going to wander round in the mud tomorrow
Which mud are you wandering around in?
I'm currently sat in Tesco carpark in Aviemore 🙂
Trying to decide whether to buy one of the remaining 57 lift passes or to skin up or to try and climb tpmorrow
Hmmm
PS. Yes agree with all your points..... Wonder if I can TRSolo at Creagsn na Cho....
I wouldn't bother with the skiing anyway it looked pretty marginal yesterday.
Mud in south Norway. Its been cold in south Norway this week, but its warm now. Will drive up and have a look though
In the end I went skiing yesterday. I was utterlylo rubbish. Quite scary. Was weird being in the train again, never thought that would happen.
Fester till 10:30 today then fanny about swapping wheels/ cassettes and generally waiting for the Tiso man to come back from Inverness with a Mudhugger! Duly fitted, I then had a lovely ride up Glen Einich and then Lairig Ghru. Didn't set off till gone 3 but the lights did their thing and it was all good.
Weather tomorrow looks execrable. Strong northerly winds snow and general nastiness.
Anyone opine on whether Creagsn Na Cho or Mess of Pottage will be less windy?
PS. I do realise that question doesn't really have a good answer...
Like asking whether Putin or Trump is better for world peace.
Gotta admire your determination!
Gosh.... The burn outta loch morlich looked like an excellent paddle today.
It rained on the drive up to CG ski.
It rained on the walk in
It rained on the first pitch and we got pretty wet.
But from about 1pm onwards it was great.
Yukon Jack....
Trying to work out a plan for tomorrow as the weather looks ace.
Wavelength sounds good.
Someone on UKC said they Mirror direct is in really easy condition, but that must be bollocks
Nice grade 3, tell me
We got a soaking on Braeriach on Sunday and bailed.
I wouldn't be too surprised if Mirror Direct was in, there has been quite a bit of temperature fluctuation.
Mmmmm
That was much morei like it. Creagsn Na Cho. Did Jenga Buttress, which was meh, and Anvil Gully which was brilliant
Luvvly
The internet random is mooting a hideously early start tomorrow to avoid the ming!
Nice, pretty mint weather. Good luck with the early start!
Must admit I love walking up high in the Cairngorms but not keen on all that cold white stuff , canny climb either and wouldn't fit in reading some of this thread with the pretentious words
I prefer icy, cold, early rise and scary at bits
Must admit I love walking up high in the Cairngorms but not keen on all that cold white stuff , canny climb either and wouldn't fit in reading some of this thread with the pretentious words
I prefer icy, cold, early rise and scary at bits
Eh?
Yeah, the word pretentious does exactly what it says on the tin!🤪
The internet random was all for binning it, but I figured we might as well go and see. The wind was heinous on the walk in but it stayed cold enough for IR to do Hidden Chimney Direct
The thaw on pitches 2 and 3 was quite something. Compacted snow and ice was fine but any pristine snow was minging. A chilly belay followed by a walk out in the windy rain.
Absolutely chuffed with the three days, managed to get some great stuff done. And a day skiing, Glen Einich and Lairig Ghru MTB not to be sniffed at either. Something more relaxing needed tomorrow. I'm thinking HBR and Mastermind perhaps
Good stuff, glad you had a productive long weekend. T-shirt weather on the Costa del Moray Firth now!
[url= https://i.ibb.co/DxgFYBV/IMG-20251130-WA0006.jp g" target="_blank">https://i.ibb.co/DxgFYBV/IMG-20251130-WA0006.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= https://i.ibb.co/zTkP8sJN/PXL-20251130-083900837.jp g" target="_blank">https://i.ibb.co/zTkP8sJN/PXL-20251130-083900837.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= https://i.ibb.co/mrLShPCF/PXL-20251130-134325044.jp g" target="_blank">https://i.ibb.co/mrLShPCF/PXL-20251130-134325044.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= https://i.ibb.co/wZ878Z6t/PXL-20251130-141458015.jp g" target="_blank">https://i.ibb.co/wZ878Z6t/PXL-20251130-141458015.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
No idea what's going on with posting photos these days. Anyway, cracking day on Liathach today, the gamble paid off but only just! Did a route called Batman on the Northern Pinnacles.
Remarkable. Was there no one else up on Liathach today? There's no footprints on the snow in the 2nd pic.