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What am I doing wro...
 

[Closed] What am I doing wrong (HTII BB / crankset)

Posts: 12
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[#6422529]

I was given the BB and crankset by a friend (he had it removed from a frame I sold him) to fit to my new frame.

I've got one spacer on the drive side and none on the other. I don't have any more spacers.

There appears to be loads of axle poking through on the non-drive side; although I've only gently tightened the bolt.

Thanks a lot.

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 18/08/2014 6:14 pm
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You need to make sure the crank is on the splines and then tighten it properly to the specified torque - it'll go on a lot further.


 
Posted : 18/08/2014 6:18 pm
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Normally you'd have two non drive side spacers, and one drive side, too.


 
Posted : 18/08/2014 6:20 pm
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Was old frame 73mm and new 68mm bottom bracket width?

You'll need more spacers if it was.

You will find the crank will move as it's done up correctly and it'll bottom out on the splines.


 
Posted : 18/08/2014 6:27 pm
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What was your old frame?
What is new frame?


 
Posted : 18/08/2014 6:29 pm
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It was a Rocky Mountain Vortex, it is a Norco Fluid.

I can't seem to find online if they are the same BB widths.


 
Posted : 18/08/2014 6:33 pm
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Tape measure?


 
Posted : 18/08/2014 7:32 pm
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Normally you'd have two non drive side spacers, and one drive side, too.

Only on a 68mm BB.

OP measure the bottom bracket shell, and the gap you have on the crank spindle.


 
Posted : 18/08/2014 7:33 pm
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I get where you are going, Breadcrumb. That looks like more than 5mm to me though.
Are the cranks to suit an 83mm BB?


 
Posted : 18/08/2014 7:55 pm
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I don't think there was ever an 83mm XTR M970 crank. Maybe,you never know.

Get out the ruler and check the BB size, no point thinking any more til you know that. Though that looks like more than 5mm to me.

I'd also unscrew the big bolt in the middle and look in and see how well engaged the 2 parts seem to be- you can see the axle in the crank arm through the hole. The bolt does need to be tightened up like a bastard, it's 50 newton metres I think which is way tighter than most mtb parts... Though it shouldn't take much force to bottom it out really.


 
Posted : 18/08/2014 8:16 pm
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the extra two spacers were all it needed.

Thanks a lot.


 
Posted : 20/08/2014 10:26 am