Forum menu
Does anyone run this yet. Not totally happy with my current XX1 set up so thinking about replacing things and weighing up cost, Eagle is available for not a lot more....
I have researched and the new 12 speed should fit on my 11 spd XD Driver.
I could go for XO1 Eagle and save myself a few hundred quid...opinions please.
What don't you like about your X11 setup?
I have a mixture of XX1 eagle and X01 eagle. Its all good but if you don't like XX1 what makes you think you will like Eagle?
I am happy with it, but i have a very annoying problem of it not shifting into the 42t ring occasionally and when pedalling, sometimes it is very noisy and I can feel vibrations only noticeable the higher up the cassette you go. It feels and sounds like the chain is not sat on the jockey wheels properly but if i jump off and look, it looks good and spins smooth and the chain has no damage to it.
My lbs have had it in twice to check the mech hanger is straight and to index them but the problem is still there.
I have been thinking about changing the mech and replacing the cannondale cranks for the XX1 ones for a while so that has what has made me think about giving Eagle a go.
Fix your problem first. Something is out of line. If it's the frame or dropout/hanger then new kit won't make any difference. If it's the mech then a replacement part will do the job. In fact I don't see how changing to Eagle is a good solution at all.
i kind of agree with with Superficial here, buying a new drive chain is a very expensive way to fix a minor glitch... i've got XX1 on one bike and X01 on another and they run perfectly. Persevere with what you've got, fix it, and save some £££ 😉
none of which is what you really want to hear... i speak from experience of throwing silly money at minor problems 😐
And if it's related to chain line, swapping to a 50t will only make it (far) worse.
Don't change cranks either, Hollowgrams are nicer than XX1s (as someone with XX1s).
Some Sram 11 speed rear mechs have a jockey wheels with a narrow wide tooth profile , it may be worth checking that your chain has the wide part going over the wide teeth on that because if not it can cause noise and vibration similar to what you are experiencing .
Ramsey, I had no idea that was a 'thing'. I've not had need to remove the chain from my XO1 kit yet, but I'm pretty sure I'd have discovered this to be a problem.
I thought the 12t jockeys were the only real difference on the RD jockeys. Good to know! 🙂 Thanks!
And if it's related to chain line, swapping to a 50t will only make it (far) worse.
Why? It's still in the same position chain line wise but the larger diameter means the diagonal chain length is greater.
But I do agree that there must be an issue somewhere and changing seems pointless.
Chain length OK?
Chain length is fine, will check the jockey wheel and see if it has the narrow wide thing going on.
And there was me thinking all you lot would say yes, it's great, go for it!
Plus it's the only thing the wife wouldn't notice has changed....
It is an expensive way of fixing the problem, so might be best to put my sensible head on.
I must admit I wasn't too enamoured with the 11sp SRAM stuff I had on my Trek. It felt cheap and never changed gear that well despite constant faffing. Add in a bit of mud and the resulting awful noises it made in the bigger sprockets and I remain far from convinced 1x is a step forewards. 2x10 XT pisses all over it for quality and accuracy.
2x10 XT pisses all over it for quality and accuracy.
obviously its a personal preference thing and people get different things from their bikes but after trying M8000 it got sold
2x11 xt was also replaced with errrr.....2x10 XT i wanted to believe i really did
one thing to note though the same problem on the 1x11 was also present on the 2x11, i think it has more to do with chain wrap around than actual chainline angle on the larger sprocket, never had time to look at it properly but dont have to with a change to 2x10
Well i have just had a quick look at the jockey wheels and the chain is sat in the correct narrow/wide teeth.
Would like some opinions on my cassette though, seeing as my problem is only noticeable in the top 3-4 cogs is this badly worn? could it be the reason of the rough running of the drive train?
Sorry pics are not great....
[URL= http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww44/astormatt/Mobile%20Uploads/20160828_115110_zpsana6gp5s.jp g" target="_blank">
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww44/astormatt/Mobile%20Uploads/20160828_115110_zpsana6gp5s.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
[URL= http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww44/astormatt/Mobile%20Uploads/20160828_115128_zps0zrpugcf.jp g" target="_blank">
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww44/astormatt/Mobile%20Uploads/20160828_115128_zps0zrpugcf.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
Looks worn out to me
but i have a very annoying problem of it not shifting into the 42t ring occasionally and when pedalling, sometimes it is very noisy and I can feel vibrations only noticeable the higher up the cassette you go.
Is the b knuckle correctly adjusted?
From your description it sounds like the upper jockey wheel may be too close to the cassette causing it to pulse/jump up and down on the cassette teeth.
From what I can see, 3rd through to 8th cogs look quite worn on that cassette, where 1st and 2nd look in much better condition. If you're trying to shift a well worn chain that meshes OK in the lower gears up to 2nd and 1st cogs, it won't like it!
Just reread through. Cassette isn't in first condition but I'd check other issues before throwing money at it still.
I've half a memory of there being a vibration issue with SRAM 11 sp mtb cassettes that is rooted in the thing not being properly lubed and torqued? Lubed on the splines I mean not chain. IIRC they're quite critical about install and often not right even on 'as new from factory/shop'...
I think the stuff being discussed in this thread is what I had in mind...
http://forums.mtbr.com/sram/xx1-cassette-creak-thought-bottom-bracket-838364.html