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I've measured everything up as per the instructions in Roger's book and used his spoke calculator. Lengths range from 293.6 to 295.3 The book itself says + or - 1mm and I know from experience that there's often a bit more flexibility than that,
So, do I buy a box of 294 and risk a bit of thread showing or 295 and risk the spoe bottoming out? Anyone know, when doing it the wheelpro way, which way you get the most flexibility?
Or should I spend the extra £10 and get half of each?
I generally plump for shorter rather than longer so that you don't run out of thread. 294.
spend the extra tenner you cheap skate
294mm will be too short for the longer side and you'll not get enough thread engagement imo.
Get 294 and 296mm
they list 295 so that will work just fine. I was just trying to save enough money by getting a box of spokes so that I'd be able to afford the brass nipples to go with them instead of using the alu ones in the box.
dont use alu nipples. When I saw the thread title, i though it was going to be about alu nipples rounding 😉
Use 295 for both sides then, should be fine and it is always better to have more thread engagement than less
That's the point, I don't want to. I wish they supplied them with brass. A box of one size spokes with a box of brass nipples costs the same as buying the individual spokes in the correct lengths with alu nipples.
Why did spokes get so expensive????
does roger still post on here?
when he feels like patronising everyone
I've always found him pretty helpful in the past.
usually along the lines of "I could tell you, but buy my book instead..." kind of helpful?
Sheldon Brown he aint.
I'll have the Al alloy nips if you don't want them! Can probably find enough new brass ones to do a straight swap...
If you order from CRC they will do 18 of one length and 18 of another if you put it in the order comments box, for no extra money. And they seem to be the cheapest too.
You'll still be able to build the wheel withspokes that are a little long or short on one side but you'll be struggling with getting the dish right before you can continue tightening and stressing the wheel. Gettig the right lengths makes the building job miles miles easier in my experience.
Rob, I looked at CRC but they don't list the lengths I need 294/295.
Simon, thanks for the offer but I've noticed that where I was looking, they do the black spokes with alu nipples but silver spokes with brass nipples!!!!
how would one go about getting hold of a copy of rogers book?
Dunno, but this is all the info I've ever needed:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
Rob, I looked at CRC but they don't list the lengths I need 294/295.
Just get 294 and 296! It'll be fine, it's only 0.7mm longer! 🙂
I didn't even know they made odd length spokes TBH. I've built a wheel with some odd parts I had lying around, with the spokes theoretically 2-3mm longer than they should have been. It was fine! 🙂
PP, I mean CRC only go up to 268mm.
From what you say PP, 295s would work as they'd only be 1.4mm too long worst case. By the same measure, 294s would only by 1.3mm too short worst case.
Is this open pro 32H?
294/6 will do it, 294 all round will work fine but you might (GASP) see a thread!
THINK OF TEH CHILDREN
Seriously I can't believe how anal folk get about this stuff, I blame internet forums and spoke calculators.
PP, I mean CRC only go up to 268mm.
Ahh, yes, they do don't they. If I'd thought about that I already knew having built 2 sets of 29er wheels!
Sorry 😳
al, it's not the cosmetic side of threads being exposed that's the worry, it's more the issue of inadaquate spoke engagement. Plus, it's nice to have a few threads on here that are actually something to do with bikes.
Oh, the rim is a Stan's Arch 29er 32 hole.
If I was being overly anal, I'd just buy the correct lengths. The thread was more about which is the best direction to bodge things. Bodge to a longer spoke and risk bottoming or bodge to a shorter spoke and risk not getting enough engagement. I had hoped that someone would be in a position to say they found that normally the wheelpro calculator and measuring methods were over/under typically.
Onzadog - Member
al, it's not the cosmetic side of threads being exposed that's the worry, it's more the issue of inadaquate spoke engagement. Plus, it's nice to have a few threads on here that are actually something to do with bikes.
I wasn't referring only to looks. It will still be fine, like much spouted on here, it's guff that a few spokes threads showing will make your wheel fall apart.
pp, no worries. If you were building these with a single box of spokes, would you buy a box of 294 or 295 to deal with calculated lengths from 293.6 to 295.3?
Personally I'd opt for 294, although I'm sure I've got some 295's on the shelf 😉
Be great if one of the shop types on here could do 72 in mixed sizes with brass nipples for £55 delivered. I'd be a happy bunny then.
Hmm not sure what we have in store. Call and ask for James in the shop and tell him what you need.
Should be able to deal at that money if we have what you need. I am off today and can't check. Sorry.
0131 557 2801
Cheers to all I spoke (no pun intended) to at The Bike Chain. Very friendly and helpful chaps.
Stoner - Member
usually along the lines of "I could tell you, but buy my book instead..." kind of helpful?
Fancy giving me some free accountancy (or whatever it is you do) advice then? 🙄
Spokes have got silly expensive. 5 years ago I bought some DT Revolutions in black- they were 55p a spoke. Now, they seem to be at least quid or more, and that's for the silver ones. All part of the 'Cycling becoming a rip-off activity' thing I suppose. Shops etc will charge what they think they can get away with. Customers pay more and more and more, without question.
I'll be ordering my next lot from overseas. Far cheaper.