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As anyone had a go at replacing the horst link bearings on specialized frames?
My drive side dropout bearing as a load of play on my 2010 enduro. Ive bought the bearings just need to fit the things. Thought id ask here as anyone attempted this without the specialized bearing puller? Is it an easy enough job?
Also the bolts seem to be made of cheese - Is it best to undo the bolts from inside or outside the chainstay?
Thanks
A blind bearing puller makes all the difference - you don't need the spesh one, but spending 30 quid on one will save a MASSIVE amount of ball ache.
The bolts don't mind which end you stick the hex key in, just make sure you're turning it the right way.
almost forgot.
You can't push the bearings through - there's a lip and a washer in between them.
Ah ok - thought i might get away with pushing them through. Might have to get myself a bearing puller.
Do you have a link to one which will do the job?
Thanks
Best £100 I have spent at the LBS. All bearings replaced and I didn't break the bike, scuff a knuckle or lose my temper once.
You can buy a complete set of skf bearings (x11 in total) for about 36 quid. Did all mine with a mallet, vice and screwdriver. Also used a concrete expanding bolt as a bearing puller - works a treat. Took maybe an hour from start to end.
Easy job once you have done it once.
Its the only job I struggle / CBA with. I even tried making my own extractor (as per kaesae's spec) but no joy. LBS for me and 6 monthly regreasing.
Am interested in a recommended bearing puller though!
Remember that if you don't get an authorised Specialized dealer to change the bearing, then you loose the warranty on the frame (in theory).
No you won't.
Can anyone tell me if this bearing puller will be suitable and correct size?
Thanks
That's actually a right bargain for a blind bearing puller - buy it anyways!. [url= http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=36&products_id=595 ]Superstar do one[/url] with more 'bits', which considering the cost of a separate bits (I was quotes £30), it might be a better bet.
TBH I did my m8's 06 stumpy and the bearing puller wasn't needed, access to all the bearings was easy, except for the bottom chainstay pivots. I don't believe there was space to get the puller into the space between the two back to back bearings (may not be the case for a 2010 enduro?).
I used the Ansdy's tool, as per this [url= http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/any-bearing-removal-magic-tricks-spec-pitch-content/page/2#post-2805293 ]post [/url] (pictures removed but if you have the parts it pretty easy to figure out what it's meant to look like). It took me a couple of go's with the tool, as it has to be done up 'tight' to get it to work, but work it definitely does.
Yes it's very cheap compared to other pullers.
It'll extract from 10mm internal to 32mm internal diameter bearings.
I'm sure the internal diameter of the dropout bearings is 10mm can anyone confirm this? Or does it differ from model to model in the spesh range?
That is a good price for a bearing puller.
I think they are the same size. If you google for the manual, it should list the bearing numbers and sizes.
But, as direct quote from may manual (may be different for yours, and no idea how they would ever check)
"NOTE: Bearing and Bolt Kits are available only through your local Specialized dealer. To retain your warranty and for your safety, all maintenance should be performed by your local Specialized dealer."
I work at a Specialized dealer and we don't have either the FSR tool kit or any bearing pullers (and the management refuse to buy them..)
shame the amount of customers with FSR bikes I've had to turn away, its just not worth risking damage to customer bikes using "traditional" methods (i.e. flat blade, hammer, socket set, lumps of wood)