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[Closed] Single speed or Rohloff full sus? any out there?

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Just wondered if anyone makes one and if they are available.


 
Posted : 28/11/2011 10:02 pm
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Kona "A" if you can get one.
Kona Cowan.
Lenze Milkmoney.


 
Posted : 28/11/2011 10:15 pm
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Damn that Lenz is ugly


 
Posted : 28/11/2011 10:30 pm
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Nicolai helius can be built with Rohloff.


 
Posted : 28/11/2011 10:55 pm
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Just sold mine:-
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-kona-a-rohloff


 
Posted : 28/11/2011 11:03 pm
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You already know that you can use any old frame you like with a tensioner, right?

To get one without a tensioner, you'll need one where the BB is within the main pivot. This has some disadvantages when it comes to suspension design, though, as you're limited to single pivot designs with the pivot in a compromised position - it's likely to bob quite badly. Commencal did a nice-looking one, not sure if they still do.


 
Posted : 28/11/2011 11:07 pm
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Airnimal Rhino, if you like small wheels.


 
Posted : 28/11/2011 11:07 pm
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For heavy but 'rad', see also: DMR bolt, Cove G-spot

A few folk on here have 'normal' full suspension frames as singlespeeds with sprung chain tensioners or bodged rear derailleurs too.


 
Posted : 28/11/2011 11:17 pm
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3 things you need -

1) Some way of transferring torque to the frame. The Rohloff 'OEM' dropout is the most elegant and is built to handle the stress. A 'speedbone' which attaches to the brake bosses is the other. Rarely causes issues but can.

2) A way to tension the chain. Either
- sliding dropouts and a pivot around the BB so no change in chain length. Restricts you to a very small number of frames and compromises suspension design
- A chain tensioner (and some sort of chainguide at the front). Rohloff's parts work well and last a long time. Very rarely dump the chain with them - the only issue is clearance between the guide and cranks with some crank/chainring combinations.

3) some way to route the cables. For light shifting you want as smooth a route as possible - under the bb and under the chainstay normally works best. Cable ties/stick on guides will work but for elegance best built with the frame.

Nicolai, of course, offer OEM dropouts and Rohloff cable routing as no cost options on all of our frames.


 
Posted : 30/11/2011 10:54 am
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My Kona A is lovely.
Looking very similar to Nicknoxx's but singlespeed and with a belt:

[url= http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6018/6208889226_45b5230fd2.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6018/6208889226_45b5230fd2.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/ir_bandito/6208889226/ ]DSC_0093[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/ir_bandito/ ]ir_bandito[/url], on Flickr


 
Posted : 30/11/2011 11:08 am
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I used to run a Rohloff on a Foes FXR

Used Speedbone with a Rohloff chain tensioner which worked very well. Did not have a chain device and rarely had any problems.

Foes did not have Rohloff cable routing but as long as cable bends are not too tight shifting should be fine.

Awful pic, chain is not even on FFS 🙄

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 30/11/2011 11:09 am
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Ive just machined* myself a monkeybone for my Scandal. Id previously hacked my speedbone for use on the On-One slotted drop outs (where the brake mounts are inside the rear triangle, meaning the speedbone wont fit as required).
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
But a new one for the scandal (with mounts in the normal position on the outside of the rear triangle) would cost £35+. A monkey bone is $35+ from the US. So an £8 adaptor, grinder, files, pillar drill and a lot of cursing and Al swarf later:
[img] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FXqCL03Z_IQ/TtYDcfHfdAI/AAAAAAAAA7s/fg57oMzOagE/s400/IMAG0473.jpg [/img][img] https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4W08qW7ygVQ/TtYDo5ug3oI/AAAAAAAAA70/livKhGq24Bc/s400/IMAG0474.jp g" target="_blank">https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FXqCL03Z_IQ/TtYDcfHfdAI/AAAAAAAAA7s/fg57oMzOagE/s400/IMAG0473.jpg [/img][img] https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4W08qW7ygVQ/TtYDo5ug3oI/AAAAAAAAA70/livKhGq24Bc/s400/IMAG0474.jp g"/> [/img]


 
Posted : 30/11/2011 11:23 am
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[url= http://www.endorfinbikes.co.uk/bikes/vp4rsl/vp4rsl.php ]endorfin[/url]


 
Posted : 30/11/2011 11:49 am
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Solid Flare?


 
Posted : 30/11/2011 11:56 am
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IMHO one of the best looking*.

5'' travel
URT
Steel
29er

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

More [url= http://www.castellanodesigns.com/Zorro.html ]here[/url]

*Runs off to hide from the sticks and rocks being thrown


 
Posted : 30/11/2011 12:06 pm
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why dont URT designers just put some effort into a damped suspended seatpost that could be used in any HT frame instead?


 
Posted : 30/11/2011 12:07 pm
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Stoner - Member

why dont URT designers just put some effort into a damped suspended seatpost that could be used in any HT frame instead?

Not a fan Mr S?

I agree that these are a bit marmite .... but I look marmite 😉

Seems a straightforward way to make SS full sus frames look tidy


 
Posted : 30/11/2011 12:14 pm
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Stoner - Member

why dont URT designers just put some effort into a damped suspended seatpost that could be used in any HT frame instead?

BTW I take it you mean:

[img] [/img]

😛


 
Posted : 30/11/2011 12:17 pm
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Never liked them since I saw my first Maverick 🙂

It might look more appealing if they could try and maintain a straight DT line from HT to BB. Looks like a mongoose Teocali which suffered the same aesthetic tree falling.....
[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 30/11/2011 12:17 pm
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Not quite what I mean 😉

thinking more like a thudbuster, but in a cylinder design a bit like an uppydowny post.


 
Posted : 30/11/2011 12:19 pm
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Stoner - Member

Not quite what I mean

Give over a Thudbuster will never take off like the Softride .........

Oh wait ...... 😆


 
Posted : 30/11/2011 12:27 pm
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I'll have an old G-Spot frame for sale quite cheap soon...


 
Posted : 30/11/2011 12:37 pm
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I have an Alfine on my trance

[img] [/img]

the frame has just over one link of chain growth which the superstar tensioner seems to manage.


 
Posted : 30/11/2011 1:37 pm