I've recently bought some 2006 Revelation Dual Air forks, all seem pretty good so far, but the lockout doesn't work (knew that when I bought them).
I plan to strip them down and see what's causing the issue, but I don't really get how the compression adjuster/lock out works.
Mine blue compression adjuster moves probably around 3/4 of a turn, but as it has a padlock on it, I assumed it was purely lockout so didn't expect it to move very far.
I've since read that it's a compression adjust - so how many turns should I be getting? Is i tlocked out when fully rotated?
The floodgate knob turns OK, this is the sensitivity of the lockout - right?
Everything else seems OK, they hold air fine, rebound adjuster works fine and they ride nice - just the compression/lock out adjuster that doesn't work.
For anyone who has stripped these, can you confirm that the cartridge is a left hand thread if it needs to be removed from the alloy top cap?
Usually lockouts don't work because the oil height is incorrect.
so how many turns should I be getting
A few iirc - try it
I can only get about 3/4 turn - as I said above.
I'm sure it will become clear whn i strip them down.
SO how should the compression knob work? Increasing compression until you are all the way around, which is then locked out?
If it turns a few turns, then those remote lock out levers would have to have quite a bit of throw on them surely??
The flood gate adjuster is a couple turns, the lockout/motion control thing is about 1/3 1/4 turn. From my experience as Spokes's said, the lack of oil will be the reason for no lock out.
To remove, the actual cartridge is a standard thread, but to take apart the cartridge I have no idea... If yours looks foobared I have a spare if your interested + pop lock.
Just had a little look, the blue compression/lockout adjuster moves around 1/3 turn as you say xc-steve.
I'll see how it looks when I strip them, but might take you up on your offer Steve 🙂
just take the right top cap of with a 24mm socket(i think) ,empty the oil and put 130mm of 5wt(i use 7.5wt and it works well) in(check the rockshox site for oil levels im pretty sure thats right). Put the top cap on and see if it works ,if it still doesn't work put another 5-10ml in,i measured out the oil, put it back together and the lockout had stopped working, i put a little more in and it worked again
If its remote lockout you don't need to take off the adjuster and it just unscrews normally, you dont need to put it back on super tight ,just nicely snugg
Will do Spock - just need to get some more 7.5wt oil 🙂
You may also find it's stopped locking out due to the required oil escaping through a faulty rebound damping cartridge into the lower leg. If it is, then you'll eventually end up with a loss of travel(ramping up very quickly before full travel is acheived) and probably a puddle of oil under the fork leg.It's also possible the compression cartridge does have a fault too, i'd suggest calling the importers (Fishers Outdoor and Liesure) with the fork's serial number and ask if it's one of a faulty batch before I stripped it down, as you're unlikely to see anything obvious other than a breakage.
The oil volume for Rockshox Motion Control damped forks is 120ml not 130! and it should run 5wt oil not 7.5wt. And adding more oil to a fork with a leak on the rebound shaft sealhead will just allow more oil to leak into the lowers and make it hydro lock (spike) earlier in the compression phase. And too much oil in the fork can result in the compression spike blowing the MoCo cart out into your face if it's not set to the correct torque and "just snugg".
Spock hasn't got a clue what he's talking about. And his recommendations are dangerous to follow.
At least you'll know who to sue if it all goes Pete tong though.
And BTW, I service forks for a living, and set up race bikes for pro riders.
the motion control cartridge itself unscrews in reverse (left threaded?) however theres not a huge amount you can do with it. best bet is just send it to TFtuned, they'll fix it for 25 quid.
Skyline-GTR - thanks for your input. If I take my forks apart and cause a failure that gets me hurt, then I'll be blaming myself.
I'm an electrical engineer by trade, so have to fix/maintain lots of dangerous machinery day in, day out - neglect here could kill.
With that in mind, I'll be careful and try to use some common sense 😉
The 7.5wt is what I had considered using after hearing the RS rebrand 7.5WT (Torco?) and call it 5wt. So if buying a non 'RS' oil, 7.5wt would be the equivalent?
Coatsey - good call with the serial number, I'll give Fishers a call.
The 7.5wt is what I had considered using after hearing the RS rebrand 7.5WT (Torco?) and call it 5wt. So if buying a non 'RS' oil, 7.5wt would be the equivalent?
Seems pretty random what other manufacturers call their different weights to me. I'm using Stendec 5wt it seems thicker (slower damping) than the OE oil I had in there. There is a big table somewhere with a list of the viscosity of various oils. Peter somebody on MTBR I think it is.
Edit: Think it's on here somewhere:
http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/bikesuspension.htm
The oil volume for Rockshox Motion Control damped forks is 120ml not 130! and it should run 5wt oil not 7.5wt. And adding more oil to a fork with a leak on the rebound shaft sealhead will just allow more oil to leak into the lowers and make it hydro lock (spike) earlier in the compression phase. And too much oil in the fork can result in the compression spike blowing the MoCo cart out into your face if it's not set to the correct torque and "just snugg".
Spock hasn't got a clue what he's talking about. And his recommendations are dangerous to follow.
At least you'll know who to sue if it all goes Pete tong though.And BTW, I service forks for a living, and set up race bikes for pro riders.
To start i said i was not sure about the oil levels and said to check them on the RS site, I use 7.5wt because i prefer the feel compared to 5wt. If there was a leak then he would be experiencing dodgy compression (which there is no mention of) and i'd imagine the rebound adjust would not be working. I forgot 'just snugg' had an exact torque level, i was just saying not to tighten it too much and strip the thread. I'll watch out for those decapitating top caps though.