[Closed] Ragley ti, whats it like for a general trail bike?

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Ok - based on an mmmbop, which has the same geometry, I'd say it's a great all-round bike. Don't worry about having to "rag" it everywhere.

I liked my mmmbop so much that I've just bought a Ragley Ti and transferred all the kit across. One of the things I'll be using it for is big days in the hills - loaded up with camping gear on occasion too.

A pitcher..

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Might rade up to the Ti from my Pig which is the best bike I have ridden. Not ridden/owned many mind you but it is still the best 😆
I ride everywhere btw. From my local Stanes and surrounding hills to the Lakes, Dales and Peaks on occasions.

If i had the money, i'd get one, but i don't so i'll stick with my pig, which i use for what you describe.

Edit and it's bloody great!

it'd be just like the pig, -1lb, +lotsofsmug

If money allows I fancy one to replace the Mmmbop, just to get away from that rather grim rear end. I love everything else about it so I tolerate it for now, and it's my official XC bike.

The Ti is a hardcore slack headtubed frame, but you can use it for anything, but you do need a long travel fork on it, it doesnt ride like a trail / xc bike you know you are on something a little special lol.
You must also use a short stem, it doesnt work with anything longer than a 65mm.
Just waiting for my Ragley Troof frame to arrive in around 3 weeks time 😆 😆

good job I have a fox 140 mm fork for it and a 50 mm race face stem 🙂 will be changing all the bits over from my crush

whats the ride feel like of the frame, a few reviews ive read say it has a less 'ti ride feel' then other bikes they have tested, does this mean there overly stiff?

loving the decals druidh you have on yours, did you get them custom made?

whats the ride feel like of the frame, a few reviews ive read say it has a less 'ti ride feel' then other bikes they have tested, does this mean there overly stiff?

Just bought one myself 😆

It's not harsh like aluminium, but it's not whippy like traditional titanium frames or like a Cotic Soul.

Overall it's most like a beefy steel frame, like a Cotic BFe or Dialled Alpine, however there is a more nuanced feel to it than that.

It [i]is [/i]as stiff as an overbuilt aluminium frame around the bottom bracket area so that it has far more 'stomp and go' power transfer than a steel frame.

But it's also more compliant so it's not remotely harsh. It has flex where you'd want it and give where you'd want it so you get the best of both worlds.

It's not a 'cruisey' bike though; you can’t just sit blithely by and let it casually ride along and the comments about needing a shorter stem are very true.

You need to be quite aggressive with it, which means you need to weight the front wheel correctly in order to get it to steer properly. This means committing your weight to the front of the bike and trusting the front to grip and not to tuck under, which it won't do because the head angle is so slack.

It’s also quite a large bike for a given size. I’ve gone for a small and I’m 5ft 11” but it feels just right for me and this size makes it slightly easier to weight the front compared to the medium, which was very long and needed a lot forward weight shift.

It’s as light as more or less any other titanium frame out there, so bare frame comes in at 3.5lbs and a complete build will be easily 27lbs without trying at all hard, and sub 26lbs with an air fork and light components.

I think the geometry is a bit of an acquired taste, certainly it suits a more experienced or more aggressive rider whose prepared to move around a lot to weight the bike properly. Otherwise it might feel and steer like a barge.

I'd agree with all that.

cheers geetee, good write up. I'm 6ft 1 " so think I may go for the 18 "

Jamesy - Member
loving the decals druidh you have on yours, did you get them custom made?

geetee1972 - Member
It's not a 'cruisey' bike though; you can’t just sit blithely by and let it casually ride along and the comments about needing a shorter stem are very true.

You need to be quite aggressive with it, which means you need to weight the front wheel correctly in order to get it to steer properly. This means committing your weight to the front of the bike and trusting the front to grip and not to tuck under, which it won't do because the head angle is so slack.

Adjustable travel forks can "dial-out" some of that if you don't want to be ragging it everywhere.

Ha, I hate to disagree, but surely the whole point of the Ragley Ti is that it wants to be ragged everywhere. It's like, oh, I dunno, getting a Lancia Delta Integrale and then using it for the school run. It'll do it, but it's not really in its nature.

I'm not saying that you can't. Or you shouldn't. But it seems against nature to me. If the bike's really [i]'mainly for local rides which arent to techy'[/i] then I kind of wonder what the point of buying a Ragley is, but then I guess 'mainly' and 'techy' are all relative.

Sorry, I'm not trying to be argumentative for the sake of it, and I'm not saying my opinion is any more valid than anyone else's, and I'm not trying to put you off buying the bike, which is brilliant, I just don't quite 'get it'. Jamesy, why are you getting rid of your Crush, what was that like on local stuff and what do you want the Ragley Ti to actually do?

I guess what I'm asking is, if what you want is 'a general trail bike', why not just buy a general trail bike?

BadlyWiredDog - Member
> Adjustable travel forks can "dial-out" some of that if you don't want > to be ragging it everywhere.
Ha, I hate to disagree, but surely the whole point of the Ragley Ti is that it wants to be ragged everywhere. It's like, oh, I dunno, getting a Lancia Delta Integrale and then using it for the school run. It'll do it, but it's not really in its nature.

I'm not saying that you can't. Or you shouldn't. But it seems against nature to me. If the bike's really 'mainly for local rides which arent to techy' then I kind of wonder what the point of buying a Ragley is, but then I guess 'mainly' and 'techy' are all relative.

Sorry, I'm not trying to be argumentative for the sake of it, and I'm not saying my opinion is any more valud than anyone else's, I just don't quite 'get it'. Jamesy, why are you getting rid of your Crush, what was that like on local stuff and what do you want the Ragley Ti to actually do?

I guess what I'm asking is, if what you want is 'a general trail bike', why not just buy a general trail bike?

You assume that everyone wants / can afford a bike for each type of riding they do. Having something which can be adapted for a range of uses might be preferable?

You assume that everyone wants / can afford a bike for each type of riding they do. Having something which can be adapted for a range of uses might be preferable?

Not really, I'm just sort of thinking aloud about balance and whether if someone's riding is mainly on non-techy trails, a Ragley might be too much for the majority of their riding. I'm not saying I'm right, it's just something to consider.

What is the collective noun for Ti bikes Druidh?

Heh - wasn't there someone on STW who had seven? Best ask them.

Ti-phoid.

I.never got on with the crush felt to slow and sluggish to me , frame was proper stiff aswell which I never liked. I tried the 19" and I found the standover height to high so took a chance and went for the 17.5 but the top tube is just to short even with saddle as far back as it will go and a 90mm stem I've just never felt connected with this bike so I'm guessing its a geometry kind of thing hence why I want to change the frame. another option I have is a lynskey ridgeline lt bit again the geometry doesn't cut it, the large looks like a gate and the standover is too little but top tube is perfect, again the 17" on the ridgeline has too short a top tube.... the ragley looks the perfect size and geometry to me ...

I suppose the obvious answer is to try and blag a test ride, 1300 quid's a fair bit of dosh to spend based on an educated guess.

I had one, and only got rid of it because my back warranted more comfort in the form of a full suz!

Some more simple pointers (from a simple bloke)

1) It is direct !
2) It aint as sloppy as some 100mm traditional XC Ti frames, but you know you are on a Ti frame.
3) Set up wrong it is turd, set up right it is superb (I ran a 65mm Nuke Proof Stem and Nuke Proof 765 bars, this is essential)
4) Be carefull with frame sizes, the new geometry pretty much demands you will need a smaller frame i.e I am 6`2" but I only needed the 18"
5) Definately need 140mm forks
6) Tubeless tyres certainly add to the comfort, recomended.
7) It is a vision of beuty and totaly suitable for UK conditions, I live in Hebden Bridge (actualy 1 mile from Ragley) and it just makes total sense. The drop outs are like nothing else and being Lynksey made the quality is 10/10!.
8) No one really has had a bad word to say about it, all reviews "rate" it.

At the end of the day you have had an Orange Crush (hardcore hardtail?), the Ti can be used from all day rides to 3` drop-offs.

I would not class it as a general trail bike, but being a "general trail bike" is one of its traits.

Hope this helps.
Kev

Not as flexi as other Ti frames thats onloy because its a hardcore hardtail.
Quit stiff but when you hit things hard and drop hard you get that lovely squigy feel, its not like an alloy frame or even steel frame its still better than them but like RagTi says its direct and doesnt twist and bend and flex under pedeling.
Basically if you aint a ballsy rider dont buy one, you do have to be rough and tough with it to get the very best out of it.

ragleyrider - Member
Basically if you aint a ballsy rider dont buy one, you do have to be rough and tough with it to get the very best out of it.

At least when Cynic-Al posts pish he's just trolling.

Ahem,

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Oh and,
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I do like Middleburn cranks.

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Geetee - that's a beaut!

IKEA high chair by any chance? !

Enjoy the new ride.

Looking forward to trying that on Thursday!

Is not sizing down kind of defeating the point of the radical geometry?

Geetee, thats sick. If you put a straight seatpost on it and a proper chain device it would be even better.

But for some reason it reminds me of a rape scene in This Is England 86.

stunning geetee, I ride fast I ride slow I ride technical sometimes I don't, I commute to work 3 days a week then ride clent hills, cannock, bretchfa, afan etc etc.. I've also got an orange 5 some say that's not a good bike for over clent ( not so tech ) but its quick and is pretty efficient climber but its still enjoyable to ride as the geometry suits me down to the ground. from my research the ragley to for a the bill I reckon regardless off riding balls out or not . Ithink that if a bike fits and you enjoy riding it then it doesn't matter what its original purpose was intended for , see where I coming from guys ?

Great looking bike Geetee!

Thanks for the comments. I'm pretty excited to ride it.

Yeah the layback post is temporary. I managed the snap the bar mount bracket on my gravity dropper by over tightening it. Turns out it's made of plastic or cheese. This layback one is actually on loan from heihei, although he doesn't know that yet!

I do have a Gamut P20 as well as this MRP. I'm running a an LG1+ on my other bike with the lower guide removed and that works fine so I'm hoping this one will be as well. But it may need a full guide.

Si - not sure what you mean about downsizing negating the 'radical geometry'. The small feels about the right size and is actually the same size in terms of legnth/reach etc as a lot of other company's mediums. But would be interested to hear your thoughts.

si_progressivebikes - Member
Is not sizing down kind of defeating the point of the radical geometry?

No.
The big SA-HA differential (i.e. steep seat coupled with slack head) gives a long wheelbase for a given "size" (BB to top of ST) of Ragley. Hence, if you want the slack front but are worried that the bike will be too long if you get your normal size, then size down.

p.s. I don't usually comment on peoples' bikes on here but geetee1972 .... OH MY! 🙂

What i am trying to say is that the frames were designed to have long top tubes, slack HA and a steep ST. By sizing 'down' you are in effect negating the original design intention of the long TT, so if you would normally ride an 18" ST, with say a 23" TT i would stick with the seat tube size rather than pick by TT length as most would normally do, if that makes sense?

Not that it really matters, pick what works for you, im just rambling 🙂

I'd have thought that a bike designer would take these various geometries into account when coming up with the final sizing of the frame. In that case, a "Medium" would fit a medium sized rider. It does make me wonder how many 20" Ragley mmmbops, Scrappies and Blue Pigs have been sold and where this section of the population approaching 6'6" all live.

Si it's perfectly ok to ramble it is after hours after all. I appreciate your thoughts. In this case though I wouldnt normally buy an 18" though. Normal would be maybe a 17".

Well there you go - according to Wikipedia (and some decent sources) the average height of a UK male is 5'9".

You're way below average then Colin 😉

si_progressivebikes - Member
What i am trying to say is that the frames were designed to have long top tubes, slack HA and a steep ST. By sizing 'down' you are in effect negating the original design intention of the long TT, so if you would normally ride an 18" ST, with say a 23" TT i would stick with the seat tube size rather than pick by TT

OK, I see your point now Si.

I guess I come from the side of always having found bikes that "should" be the right size for me, feeling too big.

I'm a smidge over 6'0" and wouldn't think about buying a hardtail bigger than 17" unless it was for commuting.

So, all the bike designers got it wrong?

ChunkyMTB - Member
You're way below average then Colin