[Closed] New bike build tips

You'll need an allen key to nip up the pinch bolts on the NDS crank too. Actually, "nip up" is possibly misleading - from memory, they're supposed to be 12Nm to 15Nm or so which is surprisingly tight. The plastic cap thing that screws through the NDS crank and appears to fix the crank to the axle is only supposed to take up the slack so you don't get side loading on the BB bearings - it's the pinch bolts that actually hold the crank onto the axle (which is why they need to be done up nice and tight).

Dropper routing - your BB should have come with a plastic tube that fits between the BB cups so the rotating axle shouldn't chew through the cable if you route it via the BB shell. However, you'd probably need to make a pretty tight turn to go that way which isn't ideal...

As a follow up to ^^^ post a torque wrench is a decent investment if you are going to be doing a reasonable amount of bike work IMO.

Bit of grease on threads, don't put it on wrong way round. Don't cross thread it. It's easy really.

Thx foe the quick responses ! Much appreciated. I guess that's why there are 2 additional boles at the bottom of the tubes, for a smoothed radius of the cable a d would explain why there is no bb tube... It's just a shame cosmetically.

Noted for the BB. I don't suppose my car wheel torque wrench will help. Could someone suggest a cheap one for crank application and general bike range, 5 to 20nm range ?

PS : this won't help setting the BB cups torque values I assume ? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/x-tools-torque-wrench-2-24n-m/rp-prod11142

Have plenty of zipties to hand.

Just do things up tight but not so you have to strain.

Get the Invisiframe/heli tape done before you do anything else.

Biscuits, you will need lots of biscuits and couple but not too many beers.

Zipties, grease, heli tape, food. Sounds kinky but duly noted.
Forgot 3rd question: the frame spec says 51m chain line. What does that mean? The BB comes with 3 spacers and I am very keen on the chain being perfectly parallel to the frame's axis when in the middle sprocket (6th). Does that mean that the ring should be 51mm away from the axis of the frame ?
Should any BB spacers go to the non-drive side ?

It's a 68mm bb shell btw and the bb is compatible with that and 73mm, however I don't if I need to adapt it to 68mm in any way or if that's achieved with the 3 supplied spacers ?

With a 68mm shell you should have one spacer on the non-drive side and 2 spacers on the drive side. For 73 it's just one on the drive side.

Thanks for that !

Open all the parts boxes/packets first. Don't open as you go along, only to find that the supplier has sent some wrong parts and your hard-won bike-build time is now wasted on a re-pack and run back to the post office job. No, only a fool would do that.... 😳

LOL. Happens to the best of us...

Going well

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Er, um....
Anyway it's been 50mins. Is it in now?

Yeah ! All solved thx to LBS.

Next problem : the BB went in very nicely on the drive side.

The on the other side fine up until half way by hand and then won't go any further. So I am not not using force and hopefully not cross threaded and I don't dare trying harder. It seems to be stopped at the point in meets the sleeve (is that what would require more force?) : what do I do ? LBS on monday ? LOL.

Well thats me confused (again)

thought said didn't have a bb sleeve? have bike shop given you one that is too long?

Take the sleeve out and see if can screw the bearing thingy on fully
By hand ?

Thanks antigee - I was "brave" enough to apply a little force and it went it quite nicely in the end - BB and cranks all sorted.

I just need wheels (still somewhere in France thx to Acycles...) and I am done, just cassette and chain plus adjusting rear mech.

sounds good....
Acycles are probably withholding your wheels to give you time to tidy the garden for the build pic that is actually an STW lawn/patio/wall/fencing inspection

LOL !!!!!

I was pleased to see that the fitted cranks yielded an almost perfect 50mm chain line, which I believe should be optimum for the XT 11 cassette.

I have applied PACE carbon friction paste to the stem's clamp as I have Easton carbon bars - should it also go under the brake lever clamps ?

No for the brakes and I wouldn't have thought it was needed on the bar clamp either. I suppose you could then torque it lower than the stated figure. I haven't in the past for the bar clamp area anyway. I do regularly on the steerer clamp though, regardless of the steerer material.

Cheers.

Other question : would anyone know the overall radius of a 27.5 Crossride wheel fitted with a 2.35 Nobby Nic please ?

Trying to fit the dropper to the right height but I haven't got the wheels yet. I estimate it at 385mm but that's just an empirical guess...

I'll leave a bit of spare cable at the front in case of course...

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Stealthy, I like.

That's a nice looking bike - very clean lines. Just think 1x drivetrains look better than 2x which helps.

Cheers - had its first outing today at Whyteways, coming from a 2012 XC/Trail 120mm bike (69 and 72 deg) this feels quite different but much more capable downhill while as good uphill (to my surprise) and despite 1,000g more.