Oiy it was not a bog roll it came out of the christmas wrapping paper . 😉
the cheapo bum fodder my SO buys the core was not suitable .
Good bit of recycling - very commendable 😉
Wooo hooo,
All parts have now arrived, a couple of quick questions for all of you that have wired up the lights.
I have a blue and a brown wire from the led's. I would like to think i can presume Brown is +VE and Blue is -VE but there is one thing i have learned, that presumption can easily lead to the mother of all **** ups.
When I come to wring the 3 position switch I see I simply wire pin to pin, does this put high at the top or bottom?
When wiring power I realise this is very important so I don't fry the circuit and I know the centre pin of the power connector is +VE so that shouldn't be too much of a problem.
cheers
Rusty
Yup blue -ve and Brown +ve
Yup - mice came pre-wired but I think it is pin to pin 🙂
[b]
Oh and older lumi batteries (if you are using one of these) are reverse polarity plugs - inner core -ve and outside +ve !!![/b]
Have you got a test meter to be sure?
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I've just ordered some XPG's, a new optic and BCT's 830mA driver to convert my second can....
His latest driver has the resistor for the off/low/high mode already on the board.
Messed up the order for the optics (20mm, not 32mm MR11) but a kind gent from Cutter e-mailed to check my order, so I have clarified with him what I actually want and should be getting them soon-ish!!
Can't wait to get the second can going. The single can with the Spokeshirts light on my helmet is more than enough, but I've got plenty of spare battery power so am thinking that I might as well make the most of it. I estimate both Lumi cans running on high will give me 6hrs run time.
I'm tempted to get a quote from Lumi for splitting my battery down into two smaller batteries. Will decide once I've run the dual cans for a while.
Cheers for the quick email foxy, was a typo by me i ment to put centre -VE.
No probs - just didn't what you to fry the board 😯
Got my bits from BCT today. Do I need thermal paste for the driver to heatsink?
No - I asked all this a few weeks ago 🙂
http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/lumican-led-conversion-stupid-question
Holy thread resurrection, Batman...
having received three slugsworth of photon goodness (thanks Troutie!) I'm vascillating over how hard to drive 'em.
One narrow is relatively straightforward, and is gonna get a b(2)flex, on account of it'll be one of two commute lights on the front of my recumbent...more flexibility/runtime is better (albeit at ~17 quid more than a bct driver) - and low volt detect is v. handy 'cos it'll be past my feet, where I won't see it dimming under street lighting..
If I were to use the other two together - wide and narrow (probably wide on the bars)- what are relatively sensible drives for each? eg would running both at 830mA work ok, without one swamping the other, or would an 830/670 or 980/830 combinations be better? - I'd guess with the wide being at the higher drive ?
BTW - in case anyone's curious about led voltages, I've checked out each on a bench power supply at 0.8A
wide : 8.8v
narrow1 : 9.4v
narrow2 : 9.6v
*bump*
anyone ?
Hey [b]jond[/b]
I went 830mA in both of mine, one is XPE one is XPG with the idea one would compliment the other, used to run one 20w tight and one 20w wide beam halogen and figured this set up would be the same but brighter.
Excellent - thanks Rusty, I'll get ordering the controllers 🙂
Jond,
probably a bit late now but I made up 5 lights with the 980mA driver and all but one have bust (overheating?). I have an old 670mA led that has been bullet proof and just keeps on going so Im going to rebuild them all as 670ma.
Anyone had any over heating issues with the 830mA?
Yes - I had an email from a guy with a twin set and the 830ma driver burnt out as well?
That was me and it was 980mA supplied by Troutie. Don't know whether it burned out or just failed. It was replaced with 980mA and that seems to have packed up as well
But after talking to the BC/Richard he doesn't recommend drivers for Lumi cans as the cans very hard to effectivily heatsink.
Richard recommends the 830mA.
Its only £7 direct.
Sorry Paul - could remember what driver you had 🙂
I had quite an enlightening email from Richard.
Did you see what i did there:-)
LOL
Must admit I still haven't got around to lobbing the lot together yet - having measured the voltages on them I've since mixed 'em up, and the all-singing/dancing lab psu have been tied up elsewhere.
I bought a pair of the 830mA drivers, so fingers crossed - p'raps I ought to see if I can get some sort of heat-sinking between the controller and can, but it's bound to be fiddly..
Interesting that the 980's failed - I've also bought a bflex (well, b2flex as it is now) to use as commuting light, I was thinking of setting the upper limit as 1A, and that's got me wondering. But it does have a settable overtemperature detect onboard, admittedly that's on the controller board but at least it'll be vaguely indicative of the temperature inside the can.
