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I Fart In your general direction!
now go away or I shall taunt you a second time!
Quote (possibly) from: [i]French Juan[/i]
hora - Member
Mike, I haven't seen you or your sunglasses for over 4yrs
I know. But unless you ride harder now than you did then, you won't notice the difference between 130mm and 140mm forks and therefore can get just about any light steel frame you like cos you won't break it.
I am currently on 5 sets of Oakelys (I hear it's a topic of conversation elsewhere 🙄 ).
[i]I am currently on 5 sets of Oakelys (I hear it's a topic of conversation elsewhere[/i]
Even in the distant lands of Manchester I hear of your fondness for shades Mike 😀
My riding hasnt improved- I just dont have a fear now. I even straight-lined down DeathStar whereas before I always kinked 90degree to the left to avoid after the gully.
Plus Ive ridden Steep steep before!
5 sets of Oakleys. Pah. A mate of mine had so many sets that the shop gave him an Oakley display case for them...
I know Clubber, 5 sets is nothing (and the oldest set is probably over 10 years old). Some people seem to think it's discussion worthy though.
Hora, if the fear has gone, then your riding has improved as you were always your own worst enemy in terms of not trying stuff.
I still don't think you need a very hardcore bike though (except maybe if you go out to the Alps).
Why don't you go for a Ragley Ti or a 456 Ti?
I cant afford/warrant a ti frame as a secondbike though. Ive always wanted to run two bikes, one full suss and one hardtail.
hora-genesis alpitude? I had a soul previously and have swapped for the alpitude. not mega heavy, adjustable revs on it, pretty forgiving at the back and I weigh 16 stone. I have the original white one but this/next years model looks nice in the pics I saw on here.
Every single one of them has cracked at the head tube seat tube weld.
I'd be more worried about the head tube being welded to the seat tube in the first place...
I have a Pace RC305. I do not know how one is supposed to tell whether the frame is "compliant" while riding it with a 2.3inch tyre on the back, a huge great fork and a 2.5inch tyre on the front. But for what it is worth, it does not feel noticeably harsh. As per Clubber, previous bike was an Inbred.
Incidentally, what [i]did[/i] happen to the Ti456?
Ti456? Just didnt get on with it as my only bike. Theres a Genesis on classifields (too big- prefer medium frames) and a medium Cotic on ebay- it looks like it been used to its full potential (and too pricey).
I'd prefer to buy used. Not into spending full price for a second build.
I'm also a lardy but timid rider and for quite a few years now I've run a Cotic Soul with 85-125mm adjustable forks on it. For someone like me more travel is pretty pointless so given the Soul is light, strong and climbs well then it's pretty much perfect. Can't really see me changing it anytime soon, unless I persuade SWMBO to release the funds for a Ti version.
Grifter ?
"I'd prefer to buy used. Not into spending full price for a second build"
Sellers beware!
I mean a second built bike! LOL
I know what seth means... i gave you a bike once and you moaned. 🙂
For what its worth a steel long travel hardtail will not be much different from a long travel alloy bike. Stick some 140mm forks on a Stiffee. It wont be any different from an 853 tubed long travel hardtail.
As said above get a bike that needs a longer seatpost and longer top tube, use a shorter stem. 27.2mm seatpost size, Titanium seatpost. All things that I have found make more difference to the ride quality on the back end.
I reckon this steel thing is just a throwback to the days of a pencil thin tubed Kona Lavdome with 0 travel rigid forks and 1.8 XC tyres. Things have changed, Massive fat tyres, massive travel forks and steel frames with beefed up joints and seriously fat tubes and thicker butting to the tubes. The above things will make more difference. It seems none of this has been taken into account and steel frames are like riding beds of air if you believe all whats said, which they aint!
Change your riding position.
Let 3 psi out of your tyres.
Do some exercise that builds up your core stability.
Stop wasting other people's time and server space.
An angry Mr Agreeable earlier
[img] http://www.dorsetecho.co.uk/resources/images/994120/?type=display [/img]
Actually that's not a million miles away form how he will look in 25 years time.
alu frame and a 3" tyre.
mmmm, forgiving (but draggy)
Nor a million miles off what his Dad looks like 🙂
I reckon this steel thing is just a throwback to the days of a pencil thin tubed Kona Lavdome with 0 travel rigid forks and 1.8 XC tyres. Things have changed, Massive fat tyres, massive travel forks and steel frames with beefed up joints and seriously fat tubes and thicker butting to the tubes. The above things will make more difference. It seems none of this has been taken into account and steel frames are like riding beds of air if you believe all whats said, which they aint!
Perhaps, some of us like lifght bikes though (and have teh skilz to ride them, eh Kuco?)
Clubber, dunno about the facial hair, but he's definitely got the scowl and the Tipperary tan. 🙂
Well I now ride 2 fully rigid 29ers, so I must have no skill.
Don't blame me you can't ride a bike, I was willing to let things go.
SE666 - my point was that yes you can achieve some similar ride characteristics by building up a heavy steel frame with heavy wide tyres etc, but you add alot of weight that many do not need.
Kuco - I can out-ride you any day. I wasn't holding on, only yanking your chain, thought you might get the joke.
You don't even know me you assume I'm 17 (way off) you have no idea of what bikes or type of riding I do or capable of. You come over as a complete **** imo but then again you are a lawyer. Post what you like I just can't be arsed it's late and your boring me now.
LOL Even a lawyer is entitled to his opinion! Dont get so heated up Kuco.
Have I got this right Hora, you are looking for a frame that is light, strong and cheap, with a bit of compliance thrown in while we're at it? Hmmm.
Kuco, you assume I am ango-saxon 30-something Engineer living in Bedford in a house share when in fact I am a Maritime Pilot of African-Eurasian descent currently working in the Red Sea 🙄
James- if you found one. Let me know 😉
Kuco, you assume I am ango-saxon 30-something Engineer living in Bedford in a house share when in fact I am a Maritime Pilot of African-Eurasian descent currently working in the Red Sea
Whereas we know you're a anglo-east european cross-dressing tea-boy living rough in Chorlton Water Park. A location where you don;t need a long travel hardtail, BTW 🙂
Whereas we know you're a anglo-east european cross-dressing tea-boy living rough in Chorlton Water Park. A location where you don;t need a long travel hardtail, BTW
I actually burst out laughing then 😆
On topic, have you thought about getting and XC frame thats corrected for 120mm ish forks and then popping something a bit longer on it to see how it works out?
That will give you the lighter more compliant frame, the extra length in the fork will slacken off the head angle a bit (no biggie) and raise the BB slightly so it might be what your looking for.
Opt for a fork with either lock down or on the fly travel adjust and it wont bother the climbing either.
Loads of sub 4lb ally frames out there that are very reasonable price wise.
tinsy....go on
Go on what?
I bought a 2nd hand scandal for £80 off here for example plan on running 125mm forks as thats what my stolen Tinbred was running and what I have to swap off my full sus, cant see why running 130mm plus would wreck the handling especially if they are like I say on the fly travel adjust or lock down type.
Have a scan about, find a frame you like the look of thats happy with 120mm forks and give it a try.
Here is the Tinbred at 125mm I dont think it looks like a chopper, another 15mm by the time you take the sag into account isnt going to kill it.
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I dont have pics of the scandal yet as waiting on getting it powder coated first but geometry is about the same as this.
edit.. you might want to pay attention to axle to crown lengths of the forks you have or what you have in mind, as a 130mm of one make could be longer than 140mm of another.
Agree, RS/Fox rather than Mazz.
Same principle as my old Vertex/Psylo's. Shop staff poured scorn on saying It'd 'bell' the headtube and it would sheer off etc. Never did.
This isn't really about the bike is it?
You've got a great bike already, stick with it for a couple of years, see if you can take it to the limits of what it can do.
Just had a quick browse on on-one
( http://www.on-one-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Not_Sliding_Dropout_31.html)
and noticed the normal inbred has been corrected for slightly longer forks
yup they take 120-5mm have done for ages, that what I am saying another 15mm isnt a lot. And there are lots of XC frames for 5" forks out there, maybe an overforked XC frame will do what your looking for, a light, compliant 140mm bike.
That said I was never sure if my Tinbred was pre 5" fork or not, but am certain my Scandal frame is.
Jsst get an Inbred and stick some 130mm forks on it. You know you dont need 140mm!
Bet you could get away with 140 air forks on the adjusted inbred..cheap as chips as well.