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I've been alarmed at the amount of snapped 12mm axle stories on here! I want to stiffen up t'backend. I've got both sets of dropouts for the Meta and can go for either a 12mm thru or 10mm jumbo thru QR. I was thinking the thicker axle of the 10mm thru setup may be more durable.
Have I miss read something? Is a Maxle a branded 12mm thru? I'm looking at the Superstar parts as they're affordable/look ok.
Thanks for reading, replies highly appreciated!
If you have current QR dropouts, look at combining the Azonic Momentum axle (IIRC - it's on CRC), and 135x12mm Pro2 kit.
Poor mans maxle, but rock solid.
That Azonic thingy looks pretty heavy.
I think I'm going with the 10mm bolt-in, £20 instead of £36 for axle and conversion kit.
Chap at LBS reckons they're the shiz. It quells my 12mm nerves too.
Thats correct, i snapped 2, main bearing, behind the freehub body has no support.
Fix #1 - Duck / Gaffa tape around the thinner section to make a little bit of support
Fix # 2 - eBay, picked up a old school maxle for £20 from france a few months ago, not snapped an internal pro 2 axle since.
Fix # 3 - Dont use Pro2 Hubs 😉
Rickos - MemberThe 12mm axles breaking is down to the Maxle light/lite which has a thinner middle section so doesn't support the inside of the axle properly. The original Maxle is fine.
Not the case- the axle is just too weak, it can snap even with a solid axle. The maxle lite makes it a much bigger problem but it's not up to Rockshox to make Hope's product work- the axle's paper thin and this is the result.
Which is one of the reasons Hope have made the Pro 2 Evo- so Herman Shake, you might want to check with Hope to see if the new axle is backwards compatible, there's conflicting rumours- some folks have said that with a bearing and freehub swap it goes. Alternatively you can just use the maxle and hope it doesn't break, and get a warranty replacement if it does- Hope were very slow to fix the problem but they're good at dealing with it when it happens.
I can't feel any stiffness difference with the 10mm bolt-in or bolt-through but then my bike's got a rear end like the forth bridge so that might be why.
So one of these should work then (the 135, not the 150)?
As I just bought the 12mm dropouts off someone I'm keen to try it, but then again the 10mm bolt-in looks pretty solid. Seeing as it's Hope too, I like that I can phone/blame them if all parts come from Barnoldswick. I hear their customer service is pretty good.
Northwind; I ride a Meta with a qr rear. They're known for having mushy rear ends, like the ladies in the queue for Mecca bingo.
I imagined the only differences between bolt in and thru would be a few grammes and a little convenience. Oh, and about £16!
I was thinking about the 10mm thru (found a non evo one), then getting some Ti bolts to replace the SS ones.
I can't help but feel 10mm is going to be safer...
Herman Shake - MemberNorthwind; I ride a Meta with a qr rear. They're known for having mushy rear ends, like the ladies in the queue for Mecca bingo.
Aye, I've heard that, it could well make more of a difference on a frame like that.
If you can turn it around within a couple of weeks, I could send you a 10mm bolt-through kit and 10mm Superstar axle to try... I don't see me using the big wheels til the middle of next month. I use the bolt-in all the time in the hemlock so can't spare it though.
I've only ever heard of problems with maxle lite though. My old style maxle is fine so I'm clearly not rad enough.
Northwind, are these a try n buy if I like or to try out and see, then post back to you?
Either way, that's very helpful of you 😀
Drop me a mail at shameer AT gmx DOT co DOT uk
I have a regular maxle in my Alpine and i have managed to break my pro 2 axle 3 times now. It always breaks just in front of the first bearing behind the freehub. Im going to send them to Hope soon.


