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http://i944.photobucket.com/albums/ad282/mickasaki_photos/Photo0020.jp g"/> [/img]This doesn't look right to me, but if i run the cable through the other guide on the bottom bracket, the cable will rub into the frame! And, no its not possible just to turn the guide round the other way either! Surely you should not need to have the front mech cable running across the down tube like this? Anyone with a hemlock help? I've mailed Cy'n'Co but i am an impatient to##er!
I'm sure CY will sort you out
running it across the other way looks right to me, where is it rubbing on the frame? will the whole thing not unscrew and then you turn it around and it stops the rubbing? โ
just looked at the cotic web page its defo the first way.......just looked at the BFE again hmmmmmmmmmmm
The cable stop on mine (2010 frame) is on the other side of the down tube - using the same guide as in your top pic I have a straight run - I will take a pic tomorrow when the bike's clean for you - not, of course, that you can move the stop ๐ฅ
That's a 2008 frame with the guide on the other side to later frames. Idea was that the outer from the shifter would be smoother routed, but as shown, the crossover can be a bit tricky so I changed it. Those Campag cable guide angle quite a lot the other way which causes drag, so try and get a Shimano one. They're a bit straighter. Otherwise, one thing a couple of customers did was to flip the guide around, and put a cable rub sticker (like that Pace carbon armour stuff) behind the BB shell to run the cable over instead if it running hard against the BB shell. That get's you the straight cable run with those Campag guides.
The 2010 version
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Thanks Deejay, definatly looks better than mine! Nice colour scheme BTW! Thanks also go to Cy! I'll try sorting a different guide and armoured patches, i think. The shifting works fine as it is, but it just annoys me when i look at it! I know - stop looking at it!! The other option, (although probably not going to be recomended by Cy!) would be to drill and tap another mounting hole slightly over to the crankside! Cant see it doing any harm as plenty of frames have two holes there anyway!
If it works leave it alone - as you say don't look! - I have to say that taking that photo is the first time since I got it in October that I have even looked at it that way up - amazing how much dirt there was even after I had cleaned it ๐ณ
If you're up for drilling and tapping then that would be the best and neatest solution. You need a hole that would place the right hand cable guide where the left one is in that picture. Getting a shimano guide will still help though, those campag ones are very offset as I mentioned above.
Thanks again, Going to get the drill out at the weekend! Watch this space for questions about how to replace bottom bracket shells ๐
Maybe dump the front gears and go 1x9 if it's really bugging you? It would get rid of a bit of complexity.
and because cy told you your warranty is fine?? ๐
Good point! better print this off for confirmation, hadn't i!!!!!! (only joking CY)
How come you didn't get the correct guidewhen you got the frame? why all this retro-fitting any way? poor design in the first place? - excellent customer service / care tho'
Take the BB out and you'll be fine. Aluminium's really soft, so drilling will be easy. Just remember to drill a 4mm hole, even though it's an M5 screw. The thread has to be cut into something, and that's the rookie error most people make.
The frames went out with a few Campag guides when we ran out of Shimano ones during the first batch. The offset didn't come to light until much later, and also, as stated in the original post, it actually works fine and most people aren't bothered about what the underside of their frame looks like. It does give a really nice outer routing from the shifter, but I changed it to the other side on later builds to prevent this kind of thing from happening.