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going 1 x 10 advice...
 

[Closed] going 1 x 10 advice please

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[#5965289]

On one snippet
Currently 2 x 10
Terrible chain suck today on muddy xc race so considering 1x 10
What size chainring?
Do I need a chance a chain device?
Ta


 
Posted : 16/02/2014 5:18 pm
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What size chainring?

how many horsepower does your leg have?

i only have half a donkey leg power ..so 30T narrow/wide RF ๐Ÿ˜‰

you don't need chain device. clutch mech is a friend


 
Posted : 16/02/2014 5:25 pm
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30t upfront here too. Only just getting up some steep sections but I'm quite heavy and only moderately fit but will never go back to 2x10. It's like a fresh challenge


 
Posted : 16/02/2014 5:33 pm
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Can't see a 30t ring being much use for xc racing


 
Posted : 16/02/2014 5:36 pm
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Running a 34t on my race bike. Using a wide range cassette to give me a roughly 1:1 ratio at the bottom end if I take wheel size into account.


 
Posted : 16/02/2014 5:44 pm
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Depends what wheel size you're on. I've been racing XC on a 36t with an 11-36t cassette, on 26" wheels but now on a 34t, 10-42t cassette and 27.5" wheels. I could easily push a 36t instead but there's little gain.


 
Posted : 16/02/2014 6:12 pm
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Probably a silly off on a tangent question, but how would going 1x........reduce chain suck? Not be facetious.


 
Posted : 16/02/2014 6:14 pm
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just buy a clutch mech


 
Posted : 16/02/2014 6:20 pm
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I'm running 32T N/W, 11-36 with a Zee mech on my Inbred 29er. There are times I wish I had a 30T up front but 95% of the time it's fine for what I need.


 
Posted : 16/02/2014 6:34 pm
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I've been think about this as well (for my On One Inbred), what sort of set-up have you guys got? What Crankset in particular?


 
Posted : 16/02/2014 7:59 pm
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I purposely swapped to a truvativ X0 GXP so i could use a 30t from below, it looks so tidy with no guides and works perfect with a short cage X0 type 2 rear mech

http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/works-components-sram-spiderless-chainring-alternating-thickness-extended-tooth-design-267-p.asp


 
Posted : 16/02/2014 9:44 pm
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^^ What Cassette have you got on that set-up?


 
Posted : 16/02/2014 10:29 pm
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depends on legs, locality, cadence and everything else.

Personally 30t would be a waste of time for me, I find 32 stupidly spinny so would be aiming for 36ish but that leaves a fairly tough run at the big hills and nowhere to bail to. Hence until I can afford XX1/XO1 I'm staying with 2x10 set up properly to make sure I don't have chain suck ๐Ÿ˜‰

Work out what gear 30-Top/Bottom is and 32 etc and ride around a bit. If your XC racing see how fast you will be spinning to get going fast.
http://www.gear-calculator.com/#


 
Posted : 16/02/2014 10:41 pm
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Problem I was having was when in smaller ring chain suck meant chain wedged up between ring and bottom bracket area
I put it in the big ring for last few laps with no problems
Appears to be very small gap between ring and frame
Clutch mech help instead?


 
Posted : 16/02/2014 11:01 pm
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32t 11-36 going to add a one up ring for wider spread and steep welsh climbs


 
Posted : 17/02/2014 12:19 am
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Morning thoughts
Was a pretty flat race yesterday so was happy cruising round in big ring. Few very hilly ones coming up so maybe keep the double.
Thinking a clutch mech would help stop the chain wrapping round frame?


 
Posted : 17/02/2014 10:02 am
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Recently went 1x10 from 3x10 and have to say I'm so impressed I'll never go back.
I went 30t starting off as I do a fair bit of climbing and fitness is still questionable.

I have yet to run out of chainring on any downhill part yet so no need to change just yet.
I've no chain guide but might put one on for the Gravity enduro season over here.
Great set up and won't look back!


 
Posted : 17/02/2014 2:43 pm
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less than 34t will see you off the back in any race.

narrow/wide chainring & clutch mech or you will need a chain device.

Regards, Paul


 
Posted : 17/02/2014 5:55 pm
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I run non-clutch and no chain device.


 
Posted : 17/02/2014 6:37 pm
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Just checked there currently 42 28


 
Posted : 17/02/2014 7:51 pm
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I am currently running a 34t raceface w/n ring, with a clutch mech and a oneup cassette adapter giving me a 42t rear cog. Can climb pretty much everything. Lovely


 
Posted : 17/02/2014 8:29 pm
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@merf777

I've done 2 races now and many days out and no dropped chain.
I suppose it's the skill of rider you are, I tend not to hit anything that could cause my chain to drop.


 
Posted : 17/02/2014 9:10 pm
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@sparrowcar

Is there a point in there, or just an uninformed opinion on my riding skill?


 
Posted : 17/02/2014 10:03 pm
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[quote=backinireland]Appears to be very small gap between ring and frame

Is your chainline correct - i.e. right number of drive-side bottom bracket spacers?

Sounds like you just need to sort your existing drive-train out.. a well set up system shouldn't be giving you chain suck. Is anything worn out, sticky links in the chain, draggy free-hub etc?


 
Posted : 17/02/2014 11:01 pm
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Cheers frog but seems to be a problem with on one's whippet slightest bit of chain suck and chain wraps around bb
It's generally not a problem Sundays race was in a very claggy mud


 
Posted : 17/02/2014 11:29 pm
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I run a 32t narrow wide with a 11-36 cassette on my slx cranks. Never had an issue getting up hills or span out down hills (off road). But I agree with earlier posts, if you're racing, then you'll want a bigger chainring for speed.


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 9:24 am
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Looking at 1 x 10 for Abigales new build, at the moment running 2 x 10 with an 11-32 xt rear cassette and 32-24 and bash on the front. I know I would need a new front chainring but how does the oneup cassette adapter work and would I need a new cassette as well.


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 9:53 am
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@merf777

I think we have our wires crossed ๐Ÿ˜‰


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 10:40 am
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running 32T N/W, 11-36 with a Zee mech

Same here.

And I swapped for mud/suck reasons, as the OP is thinking, and it's completely cured this.

I'm not fit, the winter bike is damn heavy, ride somewhere with steep sided valleys, and find 32/36 is fine for a lowest gear.

OP, you need a 11-36 10spd rear cassette and a thick/thin 32t front chainring. And a new chain. Replace all three at the same time so that nothing is worn.

If you haven't already got a clutch rear mech, you'll need one. That's the one bit of tech that really makes it all work.


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 11:13 am