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Gah! 4 rides old ty...
 

[Closed] Gah! 4 rides old tyre sidewall ripped, can it be repaired?

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[#8129561]

New tyre, Maxxis Ardent Exo TR, got a rip in the sidewall tonight, about 15mm long near the tread. It's set up tubeless but hit something sharp and hard and went down immediately. Any way this can be patched up? Doesn't look like it's gone through completely. Wondering about glue, sewing and patch. Can I use ordinary punture repair glue on the inside of a tyre or will I need something else?

Otherwise it'll have to be a new tyre 😐


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 8:15 pm
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I have had success with double tubeless repair worms on the trail with damage like this.

Sometimes it comes off, and I have had success using a path either side after putting a couple of staples in.


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 8:25 pm
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Well, I've been googling while sitting here. Lots of suggestions. Think I'll see if my LBS has something, maybe they'll have some of those emergency tyre boot things or something else. Looks like I won't, or it's recommended not to, run it tubeless so I'll put a tube in after repair and see how it goes ... 🙁


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 8:55 pm
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Feel your pain. Killed a nobby nic evo in a single ride the other week.
I know it can just happen, but I'll be taking the other one off and not buying one of those again.


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 8:59 pm
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If it's not too large you can put a regular patch on the inside (but take care putting it on). There are also tubeless patches which are the same thing but a bit tougher.

I have also just stitched one back together (using dental floss) and it was fine for years.


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 9:01 pm
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If the cut is near the tread area and you've sewn and then patched from the inside i don't see why you shouldn't go tubeless. You want the patch to be something stretchy though.

If it were me, i'd clean the inside of the tyre, small amount of rubber glue on edges and sew shut. Patch inside with an offcut of old inner tube. Leave to dry for an hour. Larger patch over the first one 20mm overlap. Leave to dry for an hour. Tubeless tyre as usual.


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 9:08 pm
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You could try a car tyre workshop? I was looking at the repair done (not side wall) on my winter tyres the other day and it looked pretty secure (thankfully!).


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 9:10 pm
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I've had better success cutting up an old inner tube for a patch - be uber vigilant during the glue curing process and let it go off for a long time - I also clamped it during curing. Then i used a dash of super glue on the sidewall - 6 months on it's held up fine .


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 9:10 pm
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You can buy tyre boots. Just a toughened patch really.


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 9:11 pm
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Feel your pain. Killed a nobby nic evo in a single ride the other week.
I know it can just happen, but I'll be taking the other one off and not buying one of those again.
AMEN, brother !


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 9:14 pm
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I have an old spare tyre with a flimsy sidewall just for this and just cut a patch out the sidewall and glew it inside over the cut with repair glue. Never had a problem with it and running tubeless afterwards


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 9:16 pm
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Stitch then patch


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 9:16 pm
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I shred ralphs and it was getting expensive, so as a sensible person, I just got the snakeskin version. Because other tyres are too heavy. That's my logic!

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 9:19 pm
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I have an Ardent Exo TR and ripped the sidewall in short order. Ardent Exo sidewalls aren't as robust as other Maxxis Exo tyres IMO


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 9:21 pm
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Ive used car tyre patches for this... glued in place then jammed in a vice overnight. Cheap kit from ebay...


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 9:25 pm
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Stitched with dental floss here. Big cuts near the shoulder I have reinforced by having some webbing as a backing to stich through as well so all the tension isn't on the tyre wall. Patch the inside to avoid rubbing tube or to allow tubeless running. Had one that was just stitched and gaffer taped inside.

Waxed dental floss is best.
And get something hard to put on your thumb.


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 10:44 pm
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Depends on the size of the gash (???).

I had a £50, three day old Rubber Queen BC tyre tear on me, so I glued on a patch, a layer of stretchy latex and sewed everything up with some fine nylon line.

The sidewall had an unsightly bulge, but I shredded the heck out of the tyre and I'm still alive.

The moral of the story: Since swapping to Spesh Grid carcasses, I've dramatically improved the longevity of my tyres here in on the flinty North Downs.


 
Posted : 26/10/2016 10:52 pm
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AMEN, brother !

What can I say, Schwalbe make shite tyres.


 
Posted : 27/10/2016 7:32 am
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And by shite you mean light, fast and grippy? Clearly terrible characteristics in a tyre.


 
Posted : 27/10/2016 7:39 am
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Thanks all. Good to know the repairs have been used tubeless again too, read somewhere that stans sealant could react with the glue? I've found in my box of bits a sheet of puncture repair stuff that seems tougher than normal patches, doesn't stretch, so I'll stitch it and patch it and try it tubeless.


 
Posted : 27/10/2016 8:01 am
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mattfez, is that a picture of a Racing Ralph? I had one go like that, sidewall just seemed to fail at the bead, not a cut it just came apart along a 3 to 4 inch strip. That tyre was only about a month old, schwalbe UK said it looked like I mounted the tyre incorrectly 🙄 if you google there's a lot of this happening to Racing Ralphs


 
Posted : 27/10/2016 8:13 am
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Tooth floss and a standard tube repair patch is my method of choice, I used this in France this year and it held up for 15 days of alpine bikepacking like this and is still going strong.


 
Posted : 27/10/2016 8:21 am
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And by shite you mean light, fast and grippy? Clearly terrible characteristics in a tyre.

I'm not sure you fully understand the term shite. They aren't grippy or especially light.


 
Posted : 27/10/2016 1:19 pm
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I'm not sure you fully understand the term shite. They aren't grippy or especially light.

So we all know that if Schwalbe tyres have a weakness it is that they are not that robust. If you also believe they are not light or grippy, exactly why did you buy them?

Please also feel free to point out another intermediate conditions tyre that weighs less, rolls as fast and has as much volume. I'm predicting a very short list.


 
Posted : 27/10/2016 1:34 pm
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If you also believe they are not light or grippy, exactly why did you buy them?

Good point. I had ordered some WTB's through a shop but the distributor couldn't get them out in time for a trip so I had to take what they had in the shop. I was reluctant as I had (like many others) had hans dampfs previously which fell apart in no time. I was open minded given the good press Nobby Nics get, but £50-odd gone in a single ride.
I have previously ridden a few different tyres under the same conditions without trouble. We did Antur the day after whilst I still had the NN on the front, and everyone remarked how grippy my mates 2.2 conti trail king felt in comparison. I have some WTB vigilante/trail boss waiting to go on now, they are actually really good tyres.


 
Posted : 27/10/2016 8:00 pm
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Oh, fifeandy, if you want the NN (evo, the grippy one, trailstar is it?), drop me a fiver for postage and you can have it! It has a cut in it but might be repairable or useful with a tube. I'm done with it but be a shame to see it go to waste!
Chuck in another £20 and you can have the good one too (pacestar? evo)!


 
Posted : 27/10/2016 8:22 pm
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I think a lot of the Enduro boys use the DC Maxxis tyres as opposed to 3C because the sidewalls are stronger.


 
Posted : 28/10/2016 6:55 pm
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Patch as best you can on the inside with regular patch. Then stick a strip of chopped up old tyre to the outside. (Always carry a few chopped up strips in my pack) SuperGlue PowerFlex seems to work well - apply liberally. Jobs a good'n.


 
Posted : 29/10/2016 12:04 am
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Park make a patch specially but they do cost......


 
Posted : 29/10/2016 12:52 am