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What kind of bit? What kind of drill for that matter?
Will I die?
Will I have a warranty?
Bump for the morning crowd - any advice?
I did it to my brand new BFe frame last week. I just used a really long 4mm drill bit. Then I ordered a little bottle of touch up paint to paint over the exposed steel before fitting the cable. I don't know why cable guides for full outer cable weren't used in the first place, though. It is a UK designed bike after all.
Any particular type of drill bit? I have some lying around, but only ever used on wood/concrete
I'm not sure. I was just amazed that I had one long enough to allow me to get in at a decent angle, so didn't really look at what type.
Any everyday HSS bit will do, longer the better as you may need to bend it to let the drill clear the tubes in places.
this will do. http://www.its.co.uk/pd/PROLJO4-4mm-Hss-Drill-Bit-Long-Series-_PROLJO4.htm?gclid=CIWwk7Xv2LYCFWfItAodhRoAFA
you need a metal drill bit. a masonary bit wont work and neither will a wood.
any thing between 4 and 4.5mm will do. depending on how much slack you require.
Why bother? Why not just buy some of those little adapters? I'm sure i paid about 50p for mine.
Edit - Exactly like [url= http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=202&category=18 ]these ones[/url]. I got them from my LBS.
Cheers folks.
And black gloss Humbrol Enamel for the touch up, right?
You can get flexible drives to get into awkward places.
I'd suggest you use a little oil on the tip. Cuts better.
Why bother? Why not just buy some of those little adapters? I'm sure i paid about 50p for mine.Edit - Exactly like these ones. I got them from my LBS.
Cos they look like something from a BHS christmas cracker.
Before you do, consider this £2.70 upgrade:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/transfil-gear-cable-waterproof-kit/
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Full length coverage without frame mods and arguably lighter than full outers (not much I admit, but it's a nice bonus).
It's easy to use and works.
The reducer ferrules poke through the cable stops and a thin tube slips over the protruding bit to keep the inner completely covered. And it looks nice and stealthy 8)
Why drill (with the risk of gouging the tube) why not hacksaw off the closed end?
[i]I don't know why cable guides for full outer cable weren't used in the first place[/i]
because full outers are a bit rubbish?
I did mine with a normal HSS drill bit using a electric screwdriver/drill the trick was to keep the revs right down and remember that you only need to drill out the stop end. It took all of 5 mins and was simple to do
Why drill (with the risk of gouging the tube) why not hacksaw off the closed end?
Why hacksaw off the closed end (with the risk of cutting the tube or leaving an untidy finish) why not simply drill them out carefully?... 😉
Why not buy an On One instead? 😉
Or even better, get rid of those silly gears altogether!
Why not buy an On One instead?Or even better, get rid of those silly gears altogether!
Wear sandals too, they help!
Duffer - MemberOr even better, get rid of those silly gears altogether!
To further offend your luddite sensibilities, this is to convert the front derailleur routing to use a dropper seatpost.
I just used proper semi-sealed cables (Shimano in my case, others are available). Not the answer you're looking for but it works.
What is the trick to opening up closed guides? My frame has a cable tie style one & two loops. Means I'm going to have to disassemble something to get it all through
There's a chance there isn't much weld on them, just wait till they drop off.
[url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8246/8666102552_fc063e3f11_c.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/chipmanda/8666102552/ ]Cotic Soul Weld[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/chipmanda/ ]Chip & Manda[/url], on Flickr
Ah boo.
Building up a new Soul tonight and I'd just assumed I could run full length cable outers. Better dig the drill out I guess.
😥
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Fibrax do a great sealed cable kit. I usually run full length outers but used their kit on my latest bike and its as good as Xtr cables in sp41 outer.
+1 for drilling out and flying snakes!
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I used a dremmel, use insulation tape to mask the frame (use plenty) and a steady hand. I did this a couple of months ago after I was sick of cleaning shitty cables that would let me shift.
They're far better than open cables IMO. Nowhere near as much rubbish gets in and if you get good cable, like Fibrax stuff, then it's still really smooth.nickc - Member
I don't know why cable guides for full outer cable weren't used in the first placebecause full outers are a bit rubbish?
They're far better than open cables IMO. Nowhere near as much rubbish gets in and if you get good cable, like Fibrax stuff, then it's still really smooth.
Agreed! Possibly the best mod so far! I'm shifting gears now not mud and crap!
And no one died! 🙂
Drilled mine out on a c456. No drama. Not sure why they changed their usual design in the first place...
dibboid - Member
+1 for drilling out and flying snakes!
Spending the £17 on the Snakes allows you to run a sealed cable without having to drill, as the full length inner fits through the cable stops.
If you've drilled out you might as well have just used normal (and cheaper) outers.
Spending the £17 on the Snakes allows you or to run a sealed cable without having to drill, as the full length inner fits through the cable stops.
I considered doing it that way before taking the dremmel to the frame, but the liner is quite flimsy stuff and I reckon it'd be quite easy to snag particularly getting my other (commuter) bike in/out if the shed in the dark or even just general use like putting it on/off bike carrier. At least with full outers it's fully protected. It suits me and don't regret it for a second. 🙂
because full outers are a bit rubbish?
I don't understand this.. What's not to like..?