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OK, so I have a [url= http://www.specialized.com/gb/gb/bc/SBCProduct.jsp?arc=2010&sid=10Pitch ]2010 Pitch Pro[/url] which I would like to convert to run tubeless.
The wheels are described as - 'Pitch Disc specific, 26mm, pin joint, eyelets, 32h'. They're shod in Specialized Eskar Control 2Bliss tyres which I've run in tubed mode for about 6 months.
I've bought a [url= http://www.thebikechain.co.uk/Stan%27s-NoTubes-Tubeless-Kit-2010060801/ ]Stan's Tubeless Kit[/url] from the lovely lads at TBC. Can anyone confirm whether I'll need anything else to make the switch? How easy are the Eskars to fit on to the rim? Will a track pump suffice, or would a CO2 canister be preferable? Any advice would be most welcome.
Thanks guys,
Andy
Not sure about the rims, but the tyres you have are one of the easiest to run tubeless that I've ever tried.
You'll want to get hold of a stan's rimstrip and some sealant.
- Put the rimstrip on the rim (leave your rimtape in place underneath it)
- Put the tyre on the rim
- wipe some fairy liquid solution around the beads on both sides
- inflate with a track pump (this is where you may need to put some elbow grease in!)
- once you've got it inflated, rejoice!
- deflate it, pop ONE of the beads off, put some sealant liquid in (it is generally advisable not to put sealant in until you know you can get the tyre to seat - otherwise you'll make a mess and be very angry)
- reseat the bead and reinflate.
- do the special tyre wiggle (see the notubes website for a video)
- done.
Dave
just noticed that you've bought a tubeless kit with just yellow tape and valves.
if you haven't opened it yet, you could return it and get the kit with rimstrips instead - the yellow tape and valve kit isn't really meant for your wheels, it is meant for stans own rims.
Dave
Doh! Thanks Dave. In that case I'll source some rimstrips.
Having just doen this to my pitch I used
http://www.notubes.com/Rhyno-Lite-Kit-P96.aspx
as the rim on the pitch '11 wheels is an odd size havent read all of the above but I will say pumping up a 2bliss Eskar was easy as with just a track pump.
One thing if you are having issues is to build up a layer of rim tape which pushes the centre cavity up allowing for easier inflation (but will also make getting the tyre on the rim harder so dont go crazy). I left the original tape and then added one run of stans yellow tape and then the rim strip on top.
HTH
If you can just send the kit back then the 'ghetto' method works just fine with that combo - I used to use it on my Pitch before I got Stan's rims.
Think this is the guide I used
http://www.tubelesswheels.com/index.html
Thanks Steve and Grum!
Steve - would [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38835 ]this[/url] pack work? I only ask as I received a £10 off voucher from CRC (I'm guessing because it's my birthday).
tbh I'd use new tyres, mainly as every puncture you ever caused a hole (that the latex will have to fill).
Anyone for that matter...I want to ensure I get the right kit this time.
Cheers,
Andy
hmm, tricky one.
your rims claim to be 26mm, so you are between sizes.
I'd go with the bigger ([url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38837 ]freeride kit[/url]) size if I were you; they claim to be for rims 27mm and larger, and with tubeless seating, you want more material in there rather than less, as it will create a tighter seal and inflate more easily.
oh, and no need for new tyres - the special tyre wiggle i mentioned up there somewhere is the point at which you encourage the latex to fill old holes. It works very well. I used to run conti vert pros tubeless, and they were really porous - once you'd swilled the latex around, it sealed up the sidewalls fine.
Dave
Thanks for coming back to me Dave - much appreciated.
I've got a '11 Pitch Pro (the green one) and run eskars tubeless on it.
Dunno if its exactly the same rim but here's what I did.
Take an old innertube with a threaded valve and cut out the valve leaving ~2mm of rubber arrund the base.
Run electrical insulation tape arround the rim, making sure it goes up the inside of the edge of the rim on both sides at least a few times on each side, then run it down the middle of the rim (no need to be super accurate). I needed to add about 30g of tape to each rim which was probbaly 5-6 layers.
Poke the valve through and do it up reasnobly tightly with the nut.
Add tyre.
Pump it up with a track pump.
If it doesnt go up, remove tyre add more tape.
Repeat the last 3 steps untill they tyre inflates.
Remove tyre, add ~80ml of sealent.
Shate the wheel and slosh it arround a bit.
Inflate to whatever the max pressure is (~60psi), shake it a bit more, then deflate to whatever your normal pressure is (~30psi).
Go for a short ride to make sure its definately sealed.
Thanks thisisnotaspoon - food for thought definitely. Sounds reasonably straightforward, even for someone as hands-off as me.
The RhynoLite Kit / rimstrip is the one for a 26mm rim although rimstrip too wide is better than too narrow apparently so you may prefer to go for the FR kit. Up to you, but I'd expect the RhynoLite width to work fine for your set up.
Notubes website is a wealth of information including how to videos and tech support forums.
The sealant doesn't like the freezing cold CO2, so if you have to use CO2, the Notubes site describes the best way.