Any recommendations on pressures for the negative and positive chambers. I have been running at the recommended for settings for 80kg ,but seems very stiff .
Or this just a case of "time to bed in"
I think quite a few run at the setting below recommended for a slightly plusher ride.
Start by setting the reccommended negative and positve spring pressure and then add or subtract positive pressure until you get to 30-percent sag on the indicator. Next, add negative spring pressure until it sags to 35 percent. That is how the bike worked best for us. If you are bottoming out a lot, but you like the way the shock works, then add pressure evenly in both chambers until you only bottom once in a while each ride. Use Negative pressure to set ride height, similar to how you would normallly use low-speed compression.
What have you guys done to get round the fact there's a very limited amount of 1.5" stem types. Is there a simple and effective way to reduce to 1 1/8 which seems to be a much more common size cheers
I got lucky and found a 45mm/1.5" Thomson Elite X4 on ebay for £35.
This is a good reminder that I need to redo the stealth routing on mine, I didn't see the little hole under the shock so it goes external after exiting the seat tube. God knows how you make it come out of the hole by the headtube though.
Was at BPW on Friday, have done a few days there on hardtails and this Trigger 4 felt incredible in comparison. Still bog standard too bar the stem, dropper and Hans Dampfs.
Just a quick query on the trigger. I've set mine up with less sag than recommended (just under 30%) as I think if you're over 100kgs like me you'll blow through the travel way too easily, the recommended pressures for my weight give 35% sag but I'm using almost all the travel on even little drops and so on. I've done this by using the recommended + pressure but far less than recommended in the - side, based on this shock balancing each chamber to work as it should, will this approach damage the shock do you think?
It seemed to work fine on my ride today BTW.
What have you guys done to get round the fact there's a very limited amount of 1.5" stem types. Is there a simple and effective way to reduce to 1 1/8 which seems to be a much more common size cheers
Unless you have a shrink ray the only thing you can do is change the forks and headset to taper ones.
Jools I set mine up using the one step less pressure than recommended as I wasn't getting nearly through the travel. Still have plenty left over. Fork is also slightly softer. I kept both + and - as per the chart. I'd suggest you just keep moving up till you are happy, but with the same ratio. Pretty sure the +- need to be fairly balanced for the shock to perform as designed, though fine tuning one away from the other in small increments is probably fine. Also fairly sure that you won't need as much +ve pressure if you set the -ve higher too and the suspension will have the designed Spring curve.
Any thoughts on whether this chain guide should fit? I'm a little confused by the adapters required for differing BBs. Any thoughts?
[url= http://77designz.com/product/oval-guide-iscg-03-bsa ]chain guide[/url]
If it's like my 2015 Jekyll it will fit as its ICG03.
BTW my new LIght Bicycle Wheels arrived at the sort office on Friday and I got the letter today. They'll be in my hands tomorrow. Must order a Butcher and Slaughter. Weeeeee!
Making my first mod to the bike. Changing to 1 x 10. Hand forced by being a numpty and stripping the thread off the left hand crank when swapping pedals. Looked like the pedal was threading fine when it seemed to stick so used a bit of brute force and a few moments later it was knackered - thread on the pedal was fine though! Could've just replaced the crank but thought I may as well make the move.
Will convert the rest to 11 speed once I've got summer hols out of the way.
Thinking of selling my cannondale trigger 4. Small modification include two new tyres maxxis high roller 2s mudhugger race front mudguard one up component narrow wide chainring. In excellent condition. Has small amount of wear which can be expected. How much do you guys this I should realistically be asking for the bike? Cheers
Would anyone with a 27.5 large Trigger be able to do me a favour? Unhelpfully I fall between medium and large sizes, and Cannondale are inconsiderate in not making a medium-and-a-half frame.
I'm happy to go 'large' for the length, and with a 'normal' seatpost this would be fine. However, I'm concerned that a dropper post with all it's gubbins won't [i]quite[/i] go low enough for me.
Could somebody stick their post down as far as it will go, and with the dropper fully extended measure the saddle-rail-to-bottom-bracket-centre distance for me?
Thanks!
Well I've ordered the 77 designz oval guide...£42 for something tiny weighing 17g. Ooof. I must be a mug. Anyway, I'll update when it arrives. Am hoping it will fit. :-/
If it doesn't Ashy I'll buy it off you as it will fit my Jekyll.
Well according to the tracking its on its way to Sweden...not a good start. Eddiebaby, I'll get in touch if it doesn't fit.
Swainy90 what size is it mate ? Wouldn't be small would it ? Please ?
Hi slider unfortunately it's a medium aha sorry mate. I am
Only 5ft9 and feels perfect for me. Too big mate?
Quick one - how do you remove the front mech on a Trigger 4?
Just one allen key and break the chain?
There is a lot more going on down there than I'm used to on my ht.
I think It was 3 bolts, but yes it is easy and obvious. And I think my chain had a quicklink on it. Mine is a Jekyll not a Trigger but the same deal basically..
3 bolts? I can feel the anxiety building up already.
Ta
What have people done about their brakes when moving to a single chainring? The bracket is there for the trigger lever, which ideally I'd like to remove (will look better!). Is it possible to get this a replacement part?
Ive left it on had forgoten it was even there had to go and check to see if id done anything.
The rear shock has gone and sagged half way through its travel and gobbed oil out of the neg chamber today. Looks like its off to mojo come tuesday.
What have people done about their brakes when moving to a single chainring? The bracket is there for the trigger lever, which ideally I'd like to remove (will look better!). Is it possible to get this a replacement part?
I cut/filed/smoothed/primed/painted the bracket thingy off my Jekyll's Magura's when I went 1x.
Magura parts (if thats what are on yours) are far cheaper from the .DE places if you dont want the faff.
Is anyone able to shed some light on the bottom bracket replacement for the cannonade trigger 4? Press fits confuse me 🙁
Thanks, yes they're Magura. I could leave it on, although I've twisted the dropper remote round so would prefer the bracket gone to make sure there's no obstruction.
[url= http://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/components-c9/brakes-c56/magura-brake-lever-clamp-p14938/s43454?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=magura-brake-lever-clamp-ma0724488&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads&gclid=CKfT67vy_cwCFU4o0wodvJsJ5Q ]Here we go, clamp for brake.[/url]
They are cheaper in Germany, but with delivery the difference is marginal.
Before I go the whole hog and move to 11 speed... Can a SRAM X9 med cage rear mech that came on the bike cope with 1x10 and a 42T largest sprocket (range 11-42)?
Flowerman, trigger 4 BB is BB30, you can either get a normal BB30 bottom bracket and use 24mm adaptors or get a conversion bottom bracket like a praxis works. I have a praxis works one and it has been faultless. This is all unless you want to up grade to BB30 cranks, you can just get a normal BB30 BB in that case.
I was planning on setting up a firmer ride in my trigger 4. So thought I'd follow the setup guide again. So I checked my pressures and then tried to remove the pressure from the negative chamber. Oil poured out the pump and valve.
I seen longmover had this issue. What was the damage? Did you go straight to mojo or through Pauls and warranty?
Thanks for any help
I phoned mojo this morning. They said just send it in and it will be fixed under the two year warranty.
I took it off last night. Easy job. 2 Allan keys and make sure there is more pressure in pos chamber than the negative.
I was also tempted to send the fork in as they have a deal at the moment.
£170 for a service and an upgrade to the fit4 2016 performance damper.
Then I remembered. I'm happy with the fork and can service it myself.
I seem to have collected a few 1.5" stems. 🙂
I have an unused Truvativ 40mm
A well used silver Sunline 50mm
And the original Cannondale 80mm, also unused.
Let me know if interested.
My shock is on its way to mojo. Seems to be that air has got out of the neg chamber into the oil side. Hopefully find out and have a working shock again next week.
Hi all anybody having a nightmare with there front mech not shifting up correctly , had the guys at LBS
take off the crank and deraliur refit and retune .
Mile down a trail ,same problem.
Have I bought a lemon here!!!
Would this be a warranty issue.
Considering conversion to 1x11 or even 1 x 12
Could this be a problem solver;
The actuation lever for the fox dyad rear shock on my trigger 4 has fallen to bits after some heavy duty off roading, does anyone know where I can get a replacement
qwerty and Dr Cannondale usually have them. Bad news: not cheap....
You weren't joking, 79 euros!! how far do you think I will get with a phone call to Paul's cycles for a free replacement as its only 6 months old
Has anyone got a Thompson elite covert dropper post on a trigger 4. Just bought one and wanted a bit of help setting it up and how to run it internally though the frame. Cheers in advance
Photos of your stealth dropper on your trigger 4 would be greatly appreciated
Down from the top of the seat tube. Pop the little grommet out. Catch the hose with something like a small Allen key. Under the rear shock is another grommet. Feed your hose into it. I used pliers as access was tight since I hadn't removed my shock.
Keep looking into the whole at the top of your down tube. When you see it. Try and catch it with your Allen key.
Hard part done.
Unless like me you forgot to put the grommet back on and you need to start again.
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Shock is back from mojo all sorted and as good as new under warranty no hassle. Pauls were helpfull in detailing some reset procedures to try before sending it away. None worked so pop in a box with a copy of the recipt and its back inside a week.
So the oval guide from 77 designz has arrived and unfortunately it doesn't seem to fit...damn. torn between modifying it or selling it on. It seems that the iscg tab doesn't sit far enough away from the bottom bracket cup and so the mating face is uneven. I could grind a bit off the back of the guide which would allow it to fit. I thought the whole point of "iscg" was that it was a standard fit??!
I had my first crash this weekend on my TC2. Managed to survive a day of speeding through rocks, climbing loose gravel, navigating technical single-track, etc. Then one the way home I pulled up off a speed bump on the road in a lame attempt to get air at speed, feet left the pedals, landed behind the bike. For a moment I thought I was gonna manage to ski it out, then the bike washed out and I went down on my side under it. Roadrash on my right elbow, shin, and hip are a pretty good argument for elbow and knee pads.
Only marks on the bike are a scuffed ODI bar plug and scuffed pedal. Had the fork been anything other than a Lefty it'd be scuffed up I imagine.
First crash in a decade. Still a bit shaken up.
First crash in a decade! I Crash once every 4 rides. I now wear hard shell knee elbow and shin pads so my crashes rarely end my day.
I've crashed the trigger about 10 times and my old hoodoo about 20.
