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IMHO I think your BB shell is fine but your BB is goosed.
I think you’ve cross threaded the BB into the shell and the shell has recut/damaged the BB thread.
I would either clean out the BB shell and gently try a new BB with a clean thread lightly greased. You Should be able to screw it in without tools.
Or contact Cotic on Monday.
Does the Brant thing work with Cy?
Cy, Cy, Cy.
I've pinged cotic an email but as it's the weekend and we all have families I wouldn't expect a reply yet.
Then started a [s]cross[/s]thread on it instead of waiting for an answer.
Everyone makes mistakes and I'm sure it can be saved.
I've seen much worse BB threads than that go on the be usable again.
If you are anywhere near Newbury, location-wise, I have a BB thread chaser. That BB should be salvageable also with a set of fine files.
Cross threading a bb is pretty easy tbh, I wouldn’t worry too much, the likelihood is that the shell will be absolutely fine when a tap has been run through.
BB cup is borked tho.
The damage to the cup where the spanner attaches is pretty easy to do, I’ve seen it done before and the guy wasn’t using that much pressure either.
Shell=steel, spanner=steel, cup=alu.
No prizes for guessing which is gonna look worst.
Now, I wouldn’t be worried by it, but I’d be pissed off if i did that on a Friday night, that IS annoying.
For future install I recommend a socket type bb tool, like a lezyne one that can fit on a torque wrench, they cause less damage to the cups, I put a piece of kitchen roll or a handkerchief between the cup and tool so I don't even mark my anodised cups torqued to 40nm.
If you look closely at the frame it looks like the drive side threads are sat quite deep into the shell. Almost as though it needs facing more.
BB cups are factory machined in this way to indicate the drive side, so the frame builders don’t install the cups backwards. I did ask why they didn’t recess the non drive side, as that takes less load, but it’s the way it’s always done now. Steel and Ti notably. Aluminium frame often have their threads tapped after manufacture. Steel and ti are threaded before then cleaned and tapped to clear after.
Ps: if I had to guess whether it was Cotic, Shimano or Renton at fault, I think you’d guess my answer.
Even if everything was pristine to start with, I can't see a new bb cup getting that damaged and it not having had a damaging effect on the frame bb thread.
I would be looking at getting the frame thread re-chased and not touching it until you have.
Whenever I have built up from a new frame (not as nice as Cotic, mind) I have always chased a pick around the bb threads to feel for any imperfections or burrs and to scrape out any frame lacquer or paint that might have found it's way in. I have seen bits of lacquer crumble out on all occasions.
But I think the best advice has been given above:
"Step away from the workstand".
We’ve all been bit ham fisted I’m sure and damaged something on a bike(I have) Get it to a shop pronto to have threads chased and fit new bb 🙂
Ps: if I had to guess whether it was Cotic, Shimano or Renton at fault, I think you’d guess my answer
Oh I know it's totally my fault and no one else's.
If it comes across that I'm blaming anyone else then my apologies.
I've come on here to ask advice thats all and the advice given is maybe I should step away from the bike and let a shop chase the threads through again. Which is what I'm going to do.
Any recommendations on a lbs in the west Bromwich area.
I'm just super excited to get riding..... Especially after seeing the hardtail party review.
Have you cleaned the threads out with a Stanley knife like @scotroutes suggested at the start?
If you take it to a bike shop they will probably do this first and charge you for the time.
Do this first, clean it out before anything else. Then try a different bottom bracket gently. If it still doesn't go in, go to a LBS.
Good luck.
TBH, having thought about the mess the OP made of that new BB with a wrench, maybe suggesting the use of a Stanley knife was courting a trip to A&E.
🤣
Any recommendations on a lbs in the west Bromwich area.
@renton, close ish, Two Wheels just outside Stourbridge or Bache Brothers in Lye both have good workshops and would sort it out I suspect.
Have you cleaned the threads out with a Stanley knife like @scotroutessuggested at the start?
Running a spike/pick type thing through does the same for lacquer and paint, but looking at the damage to the bb cup threads, I doubt the shell threads have escaped completely unscathed.
TBH I'm not at all convinced about Shimano's QC either. I had a new bb cup once that just would not go in straight. Rather than force it, I sent it back as faulty and got a replacement which went in with no issues. The Shimano BBs I use are so cheap I just make sure I've got one in reserve...
If you genuinely haven't had to seriously force that cup into the frame I'd be onto Shimano, because those threads are utterly knackered.
As for the frame being faced, looks like it has to me, if you look at the 7-9 o'clock position there's still a thin line of paint where the tool has bit into the metal but hasn't been so far as to completely flatten the full thickness of the shell (which is fine).
The cup went in ok to start with but as it got tighter I backed off a bit and then went again.
That's how you tap a thread, not how you install a part!
That’s how you tap a thread, not how you install a part!
To be fair, it has retapped the bb cup thread to a certain extent. 😉
Is it greedy to have two sets of bb taps? 🙂 Unfortunately not near the OP.
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Tbh the taps can be easily confused - the blue handled set is like regular engineering tap with the lh thread stamped L.
The Ice Tools set has the lh thread stamped R for rhs of bike. Guess trying to idiot proof it like the writing and arrow on the bb, but you'd think mechanics shouldn't need that...
The bb shell thread ident mentioned by Brant must be a far east thing - Silva bb shells have an id groove further in that doesn't remove useful thread.
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Luckily everything you guys suggested is what I put in my email reply this morning! Thanks chaps. I'm going to cover any labour costs for getting it sorted at a shop, and going to double check the thread cutters this morning.
Cheers,
Cy @ Cotic
👍
Wow, that's awesome service from Cotic and excellent PR.
I had a chat to Cy at a London Bike show and I was impressed by his passion for his products.
Had a good chat with Cy via email and he said he would pay for any repairs needed which is an extremely nice gesture.
Needless to say that I declined as it was down to my hamfistedness that I'm am where I am.
Booked into leisure lakes next Tuesday.
Great stuff.
Look forward to seeing the frame built up renton.👍
Good result, and a good reason to use local UK frames.
Best of luck Renton, enjoy.
Nice ending to the thread.
Great frames - just got a BfeMAX for my daughter......In Rentons partial defence the non-drive side cup went in fine......the drive side cup took significant more effort to turn the spanner.......
Both in, in situ however.....I hope.
🙂
Mark
So far .....
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^^^^^
Oooooh, sir!
Very nice, next job fit the bottom brac.....
Oh.
Looks ace. What size is that, renton?
Working hard to resist here.
Cheers.
It's a large frame. I ummed and arred a bit over large or XL but the large matches my XL s150 spot on apart from seat tube length.
that looks lovely.
Seat looks a bit uncomfortable? 🙂
renton
It’s a large frame. I ummed and arred a bit over large or XL but the large matches my XL s150 spot on apart from seat tube length.
Same umm and ah here on sizing, but I think and inch longer reach than the current hardtail is enough for me for a fun in the woods bike.
Are the decals under clearcoat? I do like the other colour, if I could get it with plain black decals instead of orange
Renton, how long are you keeping this one for?
Gutted you didn't buy an XL! 😉
That's looking nice so far!
The issue with the XL is the Seat tube length is too long for me to run a decent length dropper.
That looks incredibly similar to my Taival.
If the BFeMAX was around a year ago, it would certainly be on my short list!
Is the BB thread ok?
That looks really nice Scienceofficer !
How does it ride?
Ive shown the pictures from my phone to the mechanic at leisure lakes and he seems to think it will be fine with a tap run through it.
Ive booked it in for a re tap and bb fit.
Good news on the BB. Benefit of a steel frame. I should think the outcome would be rather more marginal if it was something like the V3 Paradox made of alu.
I've ridden a few bikes in my time, and although I'm no Guy Kesteven and I haven't been fortunate to be a professional bike tester for the last 25 years, the Taival is the best riding trail hardtail I've ever thrown a leg over.
My only want is for a touch more tyre clearance. Which the BFe has!
Scienceofficer - Would a link out of the chain improve shifting?
Doubt it. Perfectly fine as it is. That chain is as short as I can go and still get over the 50t sprocket.
Well..... We are getting there .....
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I'm booked into the shop on Tuesday for a BB ream and new BB fit then o can sort out the seat post cable length, fit the chain and off we go!