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so, after contemplating on why my orange five has developed the annoying creak when riding up hill, under pressure of the cranks..... ive just had a new Hope bottom bracket fitted.... first ride out today and bugger me its still continously creaking around the pivot area...so 'orange' tell me you dont change the bushings too often in the pivot area cos they are sealed... they also have bearings so im wondering if the bearings need replacing..... went to lee quarry today and had another chat witha guy that was there and he says he heres alot of creaking bikes up and down so as lonf as it aint just my bike then lol...but its is ****ing annoying throughout a few hours ride.... anyone else any other theorys.. you could spend a fortune on replacing parts and still have a creaking bike lol... anyway i removed the black disc covers in the pivot area and greased inside there.... but im relly wondering if the bearings have gone.... who knows every bike shop i speak to has a different opinion,...sooo confusing...lol
have you got any spacers on the bb? my single speed was creaking like a bugger, popped a little bit of grease between the spacers, tightened it all down again and the creaking has now gone. Check the chain ring bolts as well as that's another classic creaky bike cause under pedalling uphill/grunting it
Tried re seating / re tightening the rear QR and checking the casette is nipped up...?
Prime suspect is normally the rear QR, unless you have a Maxle try tightening it very tightly, or replacing it with a Shimano item.
Could be,in no particular order.
Pedals
Chainring bolts
Mech hanger
Quick release
Cassette
Bottom bracket
Cranks
Pivot bearings
Bushes.
Thats assuming it is drivetrain related,otherwise add
Seat rails
Headset
Stem
seatpost.
Depends how long the piece of string is.
the creak on my Kula is seat rails. I'm told dirt can get between the rail and the seat tube fixing causing this (clean it), tho in my case I think it's just old age and use (of the saddle!), where the rails join the saddle body.
knees?
Smooth a little grease in and on the drop outs and on the QR then tighten it up.
sell the orange and buy a decent, non-creaking bike? it's obviously broken and needs to be replaced with something of higher build quality......an Apollo perhaps 😆
[i]Tried re seating / re tightening the rear QR and checking the casette is nipped up...?[/i]
2nd that, maxle on mine & I thought the din was coming from the cranks but twas the back axle a bit looser than should've been.
it it when seated , standing or both ?
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Just be thankfull it's not a motorbike. I think I've had mine apart 3 or 4 times looking for the creak...
The cup spanners that only engage with a few of the steps on a cup can't possibly tighten the cup to the specified torque. Even with a big **** off torque wrench, 30-40 N/m is one good grunt of welly.
Maybe your bottom bracket is loose.
A wrap of PTFE tape round on the bottom bracket cup threads cured the creak on my hope BB
What hubs? I was plagued with a creak from the bike...even returned to supplier for a check...they put it down to the freehub...got replacement and the existing one fell off...replaced and silence has once more returned. I was convinced it was the suspension but it wasn't...
Perhaps the creak is a crack in the frame ??
( Or maybe not )
😉
change the bearing in the frame swingarm they are only a few quid, if it doesnt work at least you know they are fine for a while.
And that is BEARING not bush
na no crack in frame its an orange ! im no fat basket either...done all the usual greasing up to almost every part of bike.... im prety sure its not my knees either (lol).....
Changed the freehub?
nope... 😉 cud that make a possible creaking noise... its getting expensive this bike thing all of a sudden...got my forks to sort out too..lol....
Would it not make sense to start with the cheapest, which is probably the bearings 😕
It may be worth checking out Mr Bartons suggestion. I had a creak which it took me ages to trace - turned out to be a creaking freehub body on a Pro2 hub. I sounded awful - like a I'd expect a cracked frame would sound. Took it appart, gave it a good clean and a grease and that sorted it. Good luck!
Had same creak with my Five-drove me loopy for a while.
Eventually solved by changing rear quick release for a new one and made sure it was nipped up nice and tight.
the 5 frame amplifies noise which makes it harder to eliminate , my friend had this recently, turned out to be a dry bearing in the free hub
Not sure on Orange frames but my friends bike had a creak which was the replacable dropouts, took them of the frame, greased and replaced creaking gone.
Cut your toe nails HTH 😉
After your original post and my replies , bugger me if my bike didnt develop a nasty nasty creaking that sounded like BB etc etc etc. Turns out my Hope Pro 2 pawl springs were fubarred but the creaking was coming from a tiny amount of grit that had got in behind the end seals on the hub end caps!!! Simon at Albany in Coventry who found and sorted the 'creak' identified it from previous experience. Pop the end caps off give them a real good clean and regrease and check fro grit in the freehub assembly.
It was frenzying me just on the two rides I did so I can appreciate how its irritating you1
my mates gt (hardtail) had a creak, which (after a complete strip down) was cured by spraying gt85 inside the tubes around the BB area.
had a bad creak on my new heckler,it was cable end ferrule on the frame guide above the bb when the swingarm moved under pedalling cured with a bit of lube.
fozlett.... ive greased and greased my quick release as 'orange' and 'Hope' and leisureslakes bikes agree that alot of creaking comes from the skewer..but buying a new one ??? did that seriously put an end to your creaking..(lol) i wud have thort that greasing the old one wud be satisfactory (not with me tho-lol.
so a look at the free hub is another culprit then..hmmm i,ll have a list as long as me arm soon ..well thanks guys for your input...much appreciated..
seanodav ::: ive been told by 'Orange' not to change the bearings they are sealed (we dont change them that often they say !!!! (i rang them up last week and thats the reply i got. check the quick release they say (i have i say... 😉 ive greased most things.... i shall plough on with this till i sort it..Hopefully.. 😉
Had a creak in my neck once.....
My 2011 alpine is the same. Doing my head in.
I've just stopped pedaling it and using it purely for going down.....
After going through all the usual suspects on my Soul (rear qr,chainring bolts,headset,dropouts,saddle rails etc) i took my nearly new at the time Hope bb out and put copperslip grease on the threads and the mating surfaces and hey presto, problem solved.
Drove me nuts for a good while before this cured it, i didn't think the bb could be at fault being so new but it was the source.
na no crack in frame its an orange !
I hope your right, my "mysterious creak" on an Orange5 turned out to be a crack in the weld around the little stub axle the bearing sits on. The replacement (which took months to arrive 😈 ) went in exactly the same place. The third one was put together such that the back wheel was about 5mm further to the right than the front one. At that point I got my money back.
Definiteley NOT lol.
Elaine Anne,
I have had the same problem with my O5 since I got it new a year ago. At one point it would sound like it was being hit with a hammer on every serious climb.
The LBS tried a few things:
- Better rear QR, nipped up tight - no effect
- Tighten up the crank arm bolts - no effect
- Remove and grease the outside of the BB
Although not so bad since that last fix, the creek is still a bit irritating, but I am trying to learn to rise above it, Zen like, as the price I must pay in this imperfect world of suffering for an otherwise fantastic bike.
Cable creak, either end caps in cable stops or where the cable outer enters the routing through the swing arm. Bit of lube/furniture polish might help.
neninja - MemberSmooth a little grease in and on the drop outs and on the QR then tighten it up.
Exactly that. Even if the rear QR is done up really tight there is still likely to be a small amount of movement, especially if there's a bit of dirt in there. Rear wheel out, clean around the dropouts, small amount of grease in the dropouts and on the faces. Sorted
I've solved mysterious creaking on two bkes like this. As it only takes a couple of minutes and costs nothing it's not worth not trying
Ok, not on an Orange, but I once had a creak that took ages to trace & it was the rear mech hanger! Took it off, put a small amount of grease between the hanger & the drop-out, bolted it back up, job done, creak free !
Elaine - mentioned it once before but you never replied....try looking at the bloody rear hub for cracks around the flange...where the spokes go into the hub....I had a creak exactly like yours and spent a fortune trying to cure it:.....the hub had two hairline cracks......replaced the hub by hope and creak gone! 4 months on and still creak free.....if you want it cured try checking that out NOW
MR WILDLY ::: wHY ARE YOU SWEARING at ME FOR 'BLOODY' GODSAKE MAN.. 😉
yes ive done it NOW- NOW -now...checked for hairline cracks in the Hub where the spokes go as you have insisted....NO BLOODY CRACKS ..ive had the torch on it too....what else shall i do to it.. NUKE IT ????? hahahahha 😉 ok ive greased things as much as possible...will be a follow up shortly ..
wots 'drop outs' btw.... maybe i call it something else.lol 😉
is the bearing in the swing arm easy to do yourself.....unscrew the black discs on either side of swing arm ( i just greased in there yesterday also...(whilst supporting the swing arm and somehow tap out the 'bearing' how do you get the bearings out.
Elaine, I know folks re banging down the free hub/hub route, and I have had this issue also. Simplest way to check is bang in a different wheel ASAP and give a quick run round the block to check.
I had it on my 29er and chucked in a random old 26er wheel just for a quick spin, and it was indeed the wheel that was the problem. once that was diagnosed it was down to the LBS for a check.
on the other bike it was a stripped non-drive side crank arm bolt (HT2) that was the culprit.
Kev
My five had a creak when I built it up (second hand frame).
Tracked it down to the swingarm not clamping the bearings fully. Ended up sanding the spacer blocks down a touch to increase the clamp load on the outer races. I found this as I was stripping down to check the bearings were smooth.
Another idea to add to the pot!