[Closed] Alloy nipples

I thought the rim in that first pic was wooden for a moment!

They don't do that if you look after them. Though the point remains that you do have to look after them, they still seize even if you do, and despite having them on several of my pairs of wheels (and I'll probably use them again at some point) I wouldn't recommend them to anybody.

they still seize even if you do, and despite having them on several of my pairs of wheels (and I'll probably use them again at some point) I wouldn't recommend them to anybody.

Wholly agree!

aracer - Member

They don't do that if you look after them. Though the point remains that you do have to look after them, they still seize even if you do

TBH any time mine have cracked, it's because they've seized onto the spoke and can't take the force needed to turn them, so still not really a solution. Hate the ****ers. So why did I just put them in a new build? Because I'm a tard, I suspect.

You can get black brass nips if that's your thing.

I used them because they're lighter, so I'll use them on a lightweight set of wheels. If I have to rebuild then so be it!

IMO they're far more reliable on hand built wheels compared to factory wheels, suspect the better prep makes up for some of their shortcomings. The ones I had on my Roval Controle SLs were dire!

I'd claim to be so good at wheelbuilding that I don't ever need to tweak my spoke tensions - in reality I'm probably just lucky, and I should mention that my first ever wheelbuild the spokes came loose whilst riding. If I need to adjust spoke tension due to wheel damage, then it's not so bad to write off the nipples if they have seized.

I'd still not recommend them though.

njee20 - Member

The ones I had on my Roval Controle SLs were dire!

Pretty sure they'd be DT pro lock, so not supposed to need any prep. But yep the ones in my traversees are a pain in the arse too. And skinny straightpull spokes just to make it more of a pain in the arse.

[quote=njee20 ]You can get black brass nips if that's your thing.

Thanks for that info - didn't know that - will probably get some for my planned build on a LB rim where I definitely won't be using alu nipples and I want the stealth look (hint in "a rim" for those who know my predilections)

Oh look, bontrager rhythms and goosed nipples. Mine are all like this, they're "locking nipples" according to the marketing gumph, which seems to mean threadlock that's stronger that the nipples. Try and tighten them and they just crumble. Awful awful awful

Thanks for that info - didn't know that - will probably get some for my planned build on a LB rim where I definitely won't be using alu nipples and I want the stealth look (hint in "a rim" for those who know my predilections)

Haha, very pimp! Yes I don't know who does them, I've got a load though, probably enough for a single wheel build, so drop me a line if you're struggling.

I'd claim to be so good at wheelbuilding that I don't ever need to tweak my spoke tensions

Aye, it's when truing (or attempting to) I've always run into problems!

you do have to look after them, they still seize even if you do, and despite having them on several of my pairs of wheels (and I'll probably use them again at some point) I wouldn't recommend them to anybody

I'd claim to be so good at wheelbuilding that I don't ever need to tweak my spoke tensions

Hate the *ers. So why did I just put them in a new build? Because I'm a tard, I suspect. Hate the *ers.

Oh look, bontrager rhythms and goosed nipples.

I could understand the splits & bits missing if there had ever been an attempt to true them but but they've never been touched AFAIK. Phil certainly wouldn't have tried and I've not.

If the wheels are really that good why should anyone even need t consider fettling with them unless they're knocked out of true?

probably the same reason as specialized do.They're cheaper.And the fact MBR go on about them like they're the Ark of the covenant (whilst simultaneously slating another bike because the stem was 5mm too long).