I love this place, I really do
I'd lke to lose 2lb please
Dont ask daft questions then!!
Oh dearie me. I'm going to leave it now. No offence intended. Thanks again all
the Race XXX Lite foam is very thin, I'm not sure the latter are sold aftermarket in the UK though.
They are - I've just bought some to replace my previous X-lite grips (actually went looking for the X-lite grips and found those)! Then again I like my grips thin, and they are profiled so that there's more thickness on the back where your weight rests - probably not so different there to X-lite - whilst thicker foam round the front doesn't really make any difference to comfort. Will report back on Sunday as they'll be christened at HONC if I get time to change my bars on Saturday! I'd probably still recommend the X-lite to others though - I was amazed how comfy they were - much nicer than the far heavier grips I'd had on before.
I doubt if changing your grips will make you quicker, you'd be better off spending the money on the wheels, less weight to get rolling,
As much as losing the same amount of weight anywhere else, including the wheels, the effect of rotating weight being pretty insignificant even compared to the small gains from losing weight in general.
Bloody hell! I've swapped the grips for FSA bar tape (double wrapped), the seatpost clamp for a KCNC ti bolt clamp and the Mavic wheel qr's for Superstar qr's and I've shed nearly half a pound already. That can't be right! I'm going to check it again.
Yep, just checked. 188 grams = 0.4lb.
generic seatpost qr 42grams - KCNC version 12 grams - 30 grams saved
Specailized Ergo grips 180 grams - FSA bar tape 60 grams = 120 grams saved
Mavic wheel qr's 120 grams - Superstar hollow axle wheel qr's 82 grams = 38 grams saved
I like this game :-}
WEIGH EVERYTHING. You can't effectively weightweenie unless you know the weight of the parts you're replacing.
"In your experience njee, in mine they don't puncture any more than normal tubes. "
I ran 100g Schwalbe XXlights before I converted to tubeless, they were just tubes, didn't puncture any differently to any other tube. I had one in the front for Fort William Still, my tubeless is lighter than 100g (most people's isn't, BMX tubes or Stans strips + sealant is almost always more than 100g)
I've got the XXX Lite grips on my Top Fuel, them seem really comfy, I must say though I don't really seem to mind any grips!
I went 1x9 withan nstop and Ti bash ring only cost £30 that saved 1lb
pace rc31 carbon forks (£200) will save you 2lbs
get a kmc x9sl chain somewhere was knocking them out for £25 the other day that'll save a bit too
get a pg990 cassette
got mine down to 19.04 lbs now!
FSA bar tape 60 grams
Some decent foam grips would be 20g, and less slippery in the wet.
Mavic 819's on Hope pro2 hubs
While I've a few 819 wheels, they are heavy, but strong so I use them as everyday wheels.
I wouldn't be selling anything to fund lighter parts, as its always handy to have spares.
Buy a couple of sets of scales (one to weigh the bike, and one to weigh parts), and go from there.
Over more standard stuff, and not stupidly expensive:
I-beam seats/posts - save 100-200g.
Hope Hoops running Stans rims - save 100-200g.
Lighter bars, either carbon or alloy - save 50g.
Ashima rotors - save 100g
XT cassette - save 50g
540 or XT pedals - save 50g
Ti bolts - save 100g
TBH though, whenever you are replacing something worn, look at the weights - and whenever you buy anything else, look at the weights.
"FSA bar tape 60 grams"
Some decent foam grips would be 20g, and less slippery in the wet.
Was going to say much the same myself - Bonty XXX-lite are only 14g (worn Bonty X-lite 18g on my scale). The thickness of the XXX at the back where your weight rests is the same as the X according to my calipers, and I certainly didn't have any issues with comfort riding 100k with them today - the thinner bits at the front just make an easier grip if you like your grips thin. Maybe a bit silly to save only 4g, but then I got them for the same price I could get X-lite for.
Whilst I'm weenieing, I was surprised to find that the carbon bars I took off were 125g, compared to a quoted weight of 105g from what I thought was a reputable company. Means I didn't need to save weight on the grips at all, as the new alloy bars are 116g (and half the price) - also 600mm wide having got tired of too narrow bars when using bar-ends, though I may cut a cm or two off (running the grips where they'd be for 580mm width).
I had the bar tape in the garage so I put it on for this mornings ride. I'll be fitting the foam grips that you guys have recommended as soon as they arrive.
Rigid forks and 1x9? Round here? (Peak District). I can't get up Lockerbrook and the like without a granny gear.
I-beam seats/posts - save 100-200g. - I can only rest my posterier on the carbon base of an SLR. Anything else is hell.
Hope Hoops running Stans rims - save 100-200g. - I'm not arsing about with bodged tubeless. Dedicated UST rims only for me. The wheels are going to be a long time coming so I'll do some research. I'm fancying the Crank Bros. but my budget is currently struggling to reach the dizzying heights of Superstar.
Lighter bars, either carbon or alloy - save 50g. - I'm going to be looking for some light weight flats to replace the Pro carbon risers that I currently have.
Ashima rotors - save 100g - Ashima Air thingy rotors should be here by Wednesday.
XT cassette - save 50g - already using XT cassette
540 or XT pedals - save 50g - Eggbeaters all day long, lighter than XT etc. as well
Ti bolts - save 100 grams' - I've replaced the rotor bolts with Ti earlier this week. Can anybody recommend where I can get some Ti stem bolts? For the face plate and the stem to steerer bolts?
This weight saving malarky is strangely addictive.
UST isn't light, rims or tyres. Crank Brothers wheels are not light. If you want to save weight, run Stan's rims with non-UST tyres.
Ti bolts isn't really worthwhile until you've done everything else, it'll cost a lot for pretty small savings. You'd be better placed to replace what you can with aluminium (brake levers, shifters, all bolts in both mechs), as they only cost a few pounds and are half the weight of ti. Pro-Bolt is very good for bolts in both materials though.
Depending which Egg Beaters you use you could get some ti axles for them. There's a chap on Weight Weenies who sells CB ti axles via eBay, they're cheap, very light and allegedly quite strong (more so than the stock ti axles on the 4ti), I've had a set since July and they seem fine.
I'm not arsing about with bodged tubeless. Dedicated UST rims only for me. The wheels are going to be a long time coming so I'll do some research. I'm fancying the Crank Bros. but my budget is currently struggling to reach the dizzying heights of Superstar.
Stans rims are not bodged, and easier than normal rims with a stans kit.
I've 819 rims on Hope ProII's, and they are heavy - and if you run UST tyres also, about 400g per wheel heavier than Stans rims and normal tyres.
I'd be concerned with the CB (and other 'factory' sets) wheels purely that the odd time I've broken a spoke I've just been able to walk into an LBS and had it replaced.
Ti bolts isn't really worthwhile until you've done everything else, it'll cost a lot for pretty small savings.
Indeed - I've got a very weenie bike (though not quite as extreme as some on here), and only a few ti bolts, as it's just not worth it. Rather silly if you're considering heavier factory wheels which will more than wipe out anything you can save with bolts.
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