…when I bled my rear, with a small dribble of Shimano mineral oil.

I want to ride the HT in the BORS 100k next week and don’t have a chance to test ride it beforehand – what will happen with Min. Oil on the pads?

Same as DOT etc…?

probably – have you got time to whip em out and chuck em in the oven for 20mins? may help!
Failing that, get some spares!

You’ve still got a front brake 😆

I’d just buy a spare set. Can always use them in the future.

my bikes contaminated pads at the moment need to change them tried all the myths……

Seems both ends too so not sure how that happened 🙁

transapp – Member

probably – have you got time to whip em out and chuck em in the oven for 20mins? may help!
Failing that, get some spares! There was a funny thread on mtbreview ages ago where a guy said he’d done something similar.
– Guys, I’ve tried decontaminated my pads by heating on the stove, will report back.

– Short ride and it’s looking good – pads are working well.

– Went out for a longer ride, seems great. Think I’ve solved the contamination problem for disk brakes 🙂

– ATTENTION BROS – DO NOT TRY THIS. My pads disintegrated downhill and I went over the bars and hit a tree 🙁

I did do it to a pair of avids. Better than they were, no delination but not as good as new ones.

I’ve often bought into the horrors of contaminated pads and filled the pockets of many a friction material maker; however, of late, I’ve decided to stubbornly ride to the top of the nearest steep hill and repeatedly drag the offending brake on the way down to vapourise whatever filth is causing the problem~ so far this cooking the pads in situ has been totally successful~ bonus is you get some quality training in to boot~ not often I’m motivated to beast uphill.

jivehoneyjive – Member
I’ve often bought into the horrors of contaminated pads and filled the pockets of many a friction material maker; however, of late, I’ve decided to stubbornly ride to the top of the nearest steep hill and repeatedly drag the offending brake on the way down to vapourise whatever filth is causing the problem~ so far this cooking the pads in situ has been totally successful~ bonus is you get some quality training in to boot~ not often I’m motivated to beast uphill.

Excellent. I’ll carry some spares knowing I’ll be faster downhill for a while at least. 🙂

You run the risk of contaminating the rotor…particularly in the holes/slots so when you fit the new pads they will be ruined very quickly.

The only sure way is to not use the brake and replace the pads immediately.
If you have used it, wash the rotor in hot water and scrub with an abrasive household cleaner and rinse with boiling water….twice.
Then fit new pads and bed them in before the race.

Solvent cleaners will not remove oil in the rotor slots…you need to scrub and rinse out thoroughly.

I know it’s a real faff, but you did ask.

PaulD

Actually PaulD thats exactly what I was asking for so thanks. They are IceTech rotors too so I’ll remove & replace the pads toot-sweet.

Cheers