just about to embark on trying this myself, watched all the vids, read all the expert guides, and it looks pretty easy to do!
just want to know do you notice any real world differences after the seal service? should they feel like new or noticeably different???
Not really TBH.
😆 so its more of a maintenance type thing to keep them from getting busted more so...
Just done mine for the first time too. Not really felt much difference, but it has stopped leaking 🙂
Only trouble I had was the left fork leg required a lot of "persuasion" to free itself, but then this is the first time in two years they've been touched.
Did mine yesterday, the Fox guide is by far the easiest to follow, only tricky bit was tightening the nut on the end of the damper, it just wants to spin.
Cheers guys.....so how did you combat the spinning nut? saw it does this on one guide but doesn't actually state how to rectify/combat it?
[i]so how did you combat the spinning nut?[/i]
I pushed down on the lowers (bearing in mind, bike is upside down and front wheel-less) whilst tightening the nut and the additional pressure stopped it from from turning enough to do up the nut
I used a spanner and a pair of pliers, once you've got it tightish you can tighten it up properly with a socket, they'll be enough friction to stop it spinning then.
Careful at this stage. The thread is only Alu and my hamfisted use of a torque wrench snapped this off. Expensive repair at loco. This nut only needs minimal torque
Put your seals in the freezer before installing them, makes life loads easier.
This normally applies to the oil seal as its quite tight to install, the wipers should be easy enough.
I did mine on Monday. It's the crush washer that stops the nuts going on. Either use new ones that haven't been crushed into the thread or thread the washers carefully onto the rod threads first before putting the nuts on.
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This butchers video might help. 😯
ok i'll take it easy, though im slightly worried about this spinning nut now 🙁
Regarding the nut. I had the same problem and spoke to
Mojo, they are very helpful. Due to the thread being slightly damaged, either from the factory
or from me, I retapped the nut and used a die nut on the bolt because I was told that you should be able to spin the nut down freely by hand. Think the threads are M8 and 1mm pitch but that will have to confirmed by a thread gauge.
HTH
I replaced the dust seals recently and followed the following steps (for Fox Float 36 forks) -
Required -
? Float oil
? 10wt suspension oil
? Foam washers, dust seals and crush washers
? Syringe, or a baby bottle
? Clean rags
? Workstand
? Bucket (for waste oil)
? Small container (for foam seal soaking)
? Socket set
? Spanners
? Screwdriver
? Allen keys
? Mallet
? Shock pump
Process -
1. Pre-soak the new foam washers in float oil
2. Put bike in workstand
3. Remove the air from the forks
4. Remove front wheel
5. Remove brake calliper
6. Check for any scratches on the stanchions
7. Unscrew the bottom nuts and crush washers
8. Tap the threads (with nuts on, to protect the thread)
9. Drain the old suspension oil into a waste bucket
10. Remove the lower legs
11. Wipe clean, to remove any dirt and dust
12. Using an open spanner, remove the old seals and foam washers
13. Wipe clean again
14. Fit new seals and foam washers (use some oil on the dust seals)
15. Flip the bike upside down
16. Re-fit the lower legs
17. Inject suspension oil into the lower legs via the bottom nut holes, in the correct amounts
18. Tighten the bottom nuts and new crush washers (check the torque required)
19. Re-fit the brake calliper
20. Re-fit the front wheel
21. Pump the air back in (55lbs/sq in)
22. Pump the front suspension a few times
23. Voilá
Suspension oil volumes -
54) 2010, 2011 36 FLOAT 160, 130 & 100
(O/B R damper)
FOX Green 10 wt. Damper 155.0
Spring-side O/B 25.0
FOX Float Fluid Air Chamber 5.0
I hope that helps. Make sure you refer to the Fox spec sheets and have the correct amount of suspension oil in each side.
Finally, if you don't use a torque wrench, check for leaks when you have got the bike stood the right way up.
Use Enduro seals to replace the fox ones as they are much better at keeping crap out and forks more slippery smooth. Also you wont have to perform this simple service so often.
cheers again guys - nice simple list too waspfactory thanks for that!
how do you drain the oil though?? just simply wipe from inside the lowers and off the stanchions?
I always give the crown/stanhcions and lowers a really good spray with degreaser once all the itnernal gubbins is out, a good rinse with hot water and a day to dry means all the old oil is def. gone.