• I’ve definitely found sram to be more sensitive than shimano. I have had a specific problem with sram brakes ratcheting on leaving very short lever throw and significant drag from the brake. Replacing caliper seals seems to have fixed this.

    Whilst it is true that you don’t want the pistons to slide through the seals in normal use I think a single…[Read more]

  • Induction hobs are great, but I’ve yet to find one that doesn’t have hateful controls. We’ve got a Miele (came with the house, not my choice) which has separate touch buttons for each hob, which is OK, but idiotically, you can’t turn a hob down unless there’s a pan on it. So if something boils over you lift the pan off, but you can’t turn it…[Read more]

  • I just use electrical tape

    I did this for a while. Works fine for sealing, but it’s too soft and tight tyres will scrape it off if you ever have to remove them.

    Yellow Tesa works well. I can imagine the clear Gorilla tape would work well too, although I think it’s somewhat thicker which may or may not be a good thing.

  • For CX, weight loss will definitely make a difference because even if it’s flat, you’re accelerating out of corners all the time, and rolling resistance (which does depend on weight) is rather more significant than on tarmac.

  • The cable routing out of SRAM HydroR shifters is just stupid. It’s as if the designers never actually tried fitting it to a bike, as it forces a tight turn in the cable if you tape it to the bars. The friction in the cable thanks to this makes it very sensitive to friction elsewhere in the cable run.

    You may be able to improve it by not taping…[Read more]

  • Trying to think what use is a helmet light on the road, especially if you have to think about turning away from others when the natural and useful inclination is to be looking around, over shoulder, at other hazards, cars, cyclists, peds, etc?

    The places I find myself night riding on an MTB I’ll typically see a handful of cars in a ride. When I…[Read more]

  • so, you’re saying the OP has got to go and replace all his lights with different beam pattern ones just because one aggressive dickhead was a bit annoyed by them?

    One aggressive dickhead, plus probably a load of normal people who were annoyed and inconvenienced by them but managed to not be a dick about it.

    There’s a reason beam alignment is p…[Read more]

  • pdw replied to the topic What winter road bike? in the forum Bike Forum pdw1 month agopdw

    I built up my Kinesis 4S Disc for about £1,500, and still very happy with it after a good few winters. I think prices may have crept up a bit since then, and I don’t like the colours on the current frames.

  • pdw replied to the topic Gxp bottom bracket in the forum Bike Forum pdw1 month agopdw

    I’m sure I saw this asked in another thread, but cant remember seeing an answer. Are there not issues with not being able to preload the bearings in the Shimano BB (when usign Sram cranks)?

    This thread?

    GOOD sram gxp bbs?

    The replies on there suggest that they’re not pure angular contact bearings, and w…[Read more]

  • I got mine from ebay. SJS do them, but they’re out of stock:


    The eBay one seems to be a genuine Sram part. It’s annoying to have to buy a full kit for £20 when I’m sure the only things that need replacing are the o-ring and seal on the piston.

  • Even non-boost bikes can be a challenge on most 3/4 bike carriers as the spacing is very tight. I think my Strada Evo is 19cm spacing. Takes a lot of fiddling to avoid contact between QRs and forks/stays.

    It also surprising how far stuff moves in a 70mph wind. The buzz rack above with double straps on the front wheel seems like a really good…[Read more]

  • I’ve got one lever that does this. Strip and regrease didn’t help in my case. I’ve just had a replacement piston delivered but haven’t had a chance to fit it yet. Hopefully that will sort it.

  • pdw replied to the topic best brakes for a tourer? in the forum Bike Forum pdw1 month agopdw

    The UK may not have the altitude changes of the Alps, but it does do quite a good line in steep descents with poor visibility, forcing you to drag the brakes and losing nothing to air resistance. The Alpine descents I’ve ridden all have significant sections where you can stay off the brakes and let them cool in a 40mph breeze.

    I once rather…[Read more]

  • Agree on needing to bleed if you disconnect the hose. It’ll probably work fine initially, then once the pads wear and the level of fluid in the reservoir drops, the small amount of air you got into the reservoir will start to make it into the brake line and you’ll be complaining about the wandering bite point.

  • Wondering if anyone can tell me the diameter of the bar that the support arms clamp to and the length of the shortest arm (e.g. between the near side of the bar it clamps to and the face of the frame clamp)

  • Slight thread hijack, but why is the direction arrow always the least obvious marking on a tyre? It’s pretty much the only one I ever want to check.

  • pdw replied to the topic Keep on trucking in the forum Chat Forum pdw2 months agopdw

    I’ve always thought that that video that Cougar posted seems to have a truck with very poorly adjusted mirrors. A large proportion of the mirror is filled with the truck cab. Surely they should be adjusted so that the cab is only just visible giving you the widest possible view? Would be interesting to see how many of those cyclists were still…[Read more]

  • pdw replied to the topic Warped disc & brake rub in the forum Bike Forum pdw2 months agopdw

    NFS (Normal For SRAM)

    I very much doubt that your rotor is repeatedly warping. It’s impossible to get a rotor completely true, so it’ll always have a high spot. The clearances on disc brakes are very tight, and if a pad doesn’t retract quite enough, it’ll drag. The high spot in the disc will typically nudge the pad back so that it’s only…[Read more]

  • pdw replied to the topic Rim tape failure in the forum Bike Forum pdw2 months agopdw

    Tesa 4289 (the yellow stuff). You want the tape to be the full width of the rim bed. A good rule of thumb is to go with the external width of the rim. I’d guess if it’s 24mm internal you probably want 27mm if you can find it, otherwise 25mm is probably OK.

    The trick with tesa tape is to pull it *really* hard as you put it on.

  • Was the QR/Disc thing a real problem for most people

    Clearly not for most people, but for the small number for whom it was a problem, it was quite a big problem.

    From what I recall of the stuff at the time, the forces generated under braking are potentially more than half the clamping force required by the relevant ISO standard for QRs, which…[Read more]

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