Forum Replies Created
@excitable oh sht sorry dude, haha! But at least you will save countless other people hours of trial and error! I’m a few pints in tonight but will check out your post when my eye are less blurry to see if there any tweaks I can apply to get it crisper, thanks for the tips! 🙂Posted 1 week ago | Go to post
So, i’m not sure what crack I was smoking but I did something wrong when setting up!
First thing i sorted was the crank and got the correct torque set from 8Nm to 54Nm as per manual, then set the bearing tension with the little adjuster.
Second job was to check the B tension. So to be sure I removed the mech, reset the b tension to the middle and remounted, straight away I was able to set the correct limits with room to spare (over extend on both H/L) which I couldn’t for the life of me set before.
From here it was plain sailing, set the correct limits on the mech, checked the B tension with the tool and got the cogs to match 100%, then tensioned the cable then turned the crank, indexed every gear first time.
So I’m 99% sure B tension was the culpirt, although there may be chance that I had just mounted the mech wrong as I’ve never seen H/L limits unable to over extend before.
Took the bike out for a test ride and the shifting was way better than I expected, while turning the cranks indoors on the stand it felt stiff and clunky but once on the rode it was smooth as!
Thanks for all the tips and advice!Posted 1 week ago | Go to post
@granny_ring – I’ll do what I can first, thanks. It’s a new frame so I’d be surprised if it is bent.
Also the suggestions are all valid regardless of whether the hanger is straight or not.
SRAM minimum hanger width is 8mm. My hanger is 6mm. So even if the hanger is bent, I’ll still need to add at a mm or so before it’s closer to SRAM spec.
When I have access to a hanger alignment tool I’ll get it checked but for now I’ll make checks on the good suggestions that people have provided.Posted 2 weeks ago | Go to post
Ok, just noticed the crank needs to be tightened to 54Nm. I only did 8Nm as thats what I saw on the bolt.
Finally found a manual (not easy to find!) and found out the correct adjustment. Another thing for me to sort out and retest.
And this one for MTB frame tolerances for compatibility, this is where it goes into detail about hanger width for QR and min chainline, etc. Very detailed document.Posted 2 weeks ago | Go to post
Thanks for all the help people!
What i mean by the limit screws is that they are fully open, and screwed all the way out so there is no way for me to extend the mech further on either H/L limits.
@brant the washer could be the answer here! Hopefully a mm to the right will sort it out.
Thanks for spotting the B tension I will take another look at it, I’ll check this first before adding the washer inbetween the mech and hanger.
I’ll also give the chain flip a go, but cant remember if I have a link removal tool.
I think I’ve routed the cable around the pulley and the small hole that exits out to the clamp.
I’ll take a look for that thread @poopscoop – thanks!
In hindsight I should have gone for an 11 sp gravel setup Rival/XX mixPosted 2 weeks ago | Go to post
Reply to: Wiggle Voucher Codes
I signed up with another email and got £10 off the SRAM GX Eagle 1×12 DUB Groupset for £267.
I think thats a good deal for the lot – now I just need to work out how I’m going to mount the shifter to drop bars? Or even to flat bars as I doubt mounts are included.Posted 1 month ago | Go to post
Reply to: Wiggle Voucher Codes
Nice, forgot about top cashback. It’s.over £100 more on chain reaction for the SRAM GX Eagle groupset Wiggle have £10 off over £50 so that helps.
Feel like I should just buy it incase it’s listed a bit too cheap. Can always send back if it’s not right or.if I buy second handPosted 1 month ago | Go to post
Reply to: Drive train brain pain
@philjunior Thanks mate
Appropriate 11s cassette, shimano shifter/rear mech would be my choice. My experiences with SRAM haven’t been great (pivots go sloppy much faster than equivalent Shimano).
I think this will be the way to go, sram cassette with shimano mech and shifter.
I think most of the SLX/XT 11s rear mechs can take 42T no problem. You could go 46 and get better range with 11s too (in fact if you were really spendy and want range in 1×11, E-thirteen make a 9-46 11s cassette – may need a goat link or to choose a particular 11s rear mech for that though)
Still not sure whether to go with the 42 or 46, will check out the 9-46 but maybe too much dosh, will also need to consider what chainring up front?Posted 2 months ago | Go to post
Reply to: Drive train brain pain
@joebristol Thanks for the detailed info mate 🙂
11 speed sram cassettes that fit are 10-42 (which is broadly similar range to shimano 11-46). 12 speed cassettes are 10-50.
I think 11 speed will be the way to go, cheaper and easier for me to source 11 speed kit. Although I have seen new NX 12 speed complete kits for around £250.
You aren’t limited to a sram crank necessarily with either option – although the direct mount steel sram chainrings are cheap at less than £20 and last a very long time. The GX level cassettes are also mostly steel so tend to last ages too.
Sram cranks are either DUB or GXP – with direct mount rings it’s not the crank that makes it boost or non boost, it’s the chainring offset. 6mm is non boost – 3mm is boost.
Thats good to know, so I could purchase a DUB Boost crank and purchase a non Boost chainring – this helps open things up a bit. I like the sound of DUB as i can switch it to a few of my other bikes.
I’ve got dub and gxp across a couple of bikes – GXP gets slated a lot and seems to be hit and miss as to how long the BB’s last. I haven’t seen any issues with DUB yet and it’s meant to be better sealed.
I used Truvativ Stylo GXP cranks and BBs for years and loved them, never had issues. I did take care of the BBs though and always packed em with plenty of grease.
Thanks again for the infoPosted 2 months ago | Go to post
It’s a dynatech titanium frame, which is lugged and bonded, not welded.
Good point as it may easily damage during sand blasting.
I’ve also heard stories of these frames main tubes coming loose from lugs, debonding, etc.
Should probably avoid it then?Posted 6 months ago | Go to post
Reply to: Cross Dowel Nut – caliper mounting bolts
I tried some of the standard cross dowel / barrel nuts but they all default to 10mm diameter.
These are about 9mm or what I think is actually imperial.
Jamis told me to speak to evans, the had no time or interest in finding the parts.
I didn’t bother with Evans, perhaps I should follow up with them.
I think I’m going to get a friend to machine the parts for me.
Does anyone know the diameter of the barrel nuts that are used in seatpost? Perhaps they would work, but I don’t think the thread size is as big as M6x1.0?Posted 9 months ago | Go to post
Reply to: Dietary supplements?
What everyone else is saying, diet is key.
This is a great diet to reset your system, “It Starts With Food” – https://www.amazon.co.uk/Starts-Food-Revised-Discover-Unexpected/dp/1628600543
Its a 30 day whole food diet. Its tough but by the 3rd week I was waking up at 6am full of energy, I haven’t had similar energy since i was a kid. Also the inflammation around my knees went down within the first week (it stopped creaking when fully extending).
I do supplement with some stuff, good place to start is magnesium as apparently we are all deficient in it. Don’t buy the cheap stuff in boots (magnesium oxide its basically a laxative), get some decent Magnesium Glycinate or citrate.
If you take D3 make sure you take it with Vit K2, otherwise you risk clogging your arteries with calcification. Its amazing how even doctors recommend D3 but don’t realise it requires K2 to be absorbed properly.
I’ve tried loads of other vitamins and supplements, and got into things like Vit stacking. None of it comes close to having a decent well balanced diet.Posted 10 months ago | Go to post
Reply to: Anyone have a Windows XP key?
No idea if these keys will work?
// Windows XP Pro Product Keys //Posted 11 months ago | Go to post
Edition Product Key/CD-KEY
Windows XP Professional 32-bit Edition
SP3 VOL M6TF9-8XQ2M-YQK9F-7TBB2-XGG88
SP3 VOL MRX3F-47B9T-2487J-KWKMF-RPWBY
SP3 VOL QC986-27D34-6M3TY-JJXP9-TBGMD
Reply to: Losing my shit!
@anagallis_arvensis I know where you coming from, as I’ve got myself into these situations before and every single time i regret them.
Don’t beat yourself up about this happening, your perfectly entitled to get angry about it, but you already know its how you react that’s the problem.
For some reason I will always call people out on their bullshit too and get myself into difficult situations, similar to what @stevextc said, is it worth doing? 99% of the time its not. But sometimes you just cant help it.
In terms of finding a solution I think the suggestions to read the Chimp Paradox are well worth following.Posted 11 months ago | Go to post
Reply to: kicking the sugar habit
I’ve found that reading a good book on the habit or ‘thing’ i want to change helps and gives me more discipline to follow through and commit. After reading “easy way” by Allen Carr, which helped me to quit smoking after 20 years I realised the power a book can have on your mindset.
I’ve tried many times to cut things out, Alcohol, sugar, gluten only to fade out after a few days because my mates are out drinking or there’s a party, or we go out for a burger.
“It starts with Food” (the Whole30 diet) is one book I have read which is very good for cutting out sugar. Although it is a “Strict Diet” it really helped me to reset my palate and crave natural food, and also help isolate foods you are allergic to.
What is really amazing is the withdrawal symptoms I get when cutting sugar, the first 2 days are fine, but then on the 3rd day its like I have a body flu, crazy aches and pains throughout the whole body – this has only ever lasted 24hrs then on the 4th day I’m absolutely fine again.Posted 11 months ago | Go to post
@IHN hahaha wrong French, I’m the older fatter version!Posted 11 months ago | Go to post
@Stoner – Appreciate the info and I’ll be checking through @singletrackminds post. Interesting to hear about Geneva and to know people’s experiences, we have heard mixed opinions.
@NewRetroTom unfortunately I’m hands on IT, so would most likely need to be onsite, unless i work in an IT call centre but i think most of those are in India!
@ orangespyderman You’ll need a Swiss work permit too, which may be complex if you were thinking of contracting / freelancing.
Good to know, thanks!
@howsyourdad1 do it!
@cchris2lou You will have to register to local sécurité sociale ; you wont be able to get your own carte vitale straight away but you should be able to go on your wife card . Need it for doctor , work if working in france .
Register with pole emploi , you wont be entitled to benefits but you will have access to free french lessons and other training if you wish .
Go to your local tax office as tax system is changing in january .
This is absolute GOLD thanks @cchris2lou
I have one thing going for me at least, my surname is “French”, literally!!Posted 11 months ago | Go to post
Ah brilliant, thanks Bigyan! That’s perfect. I worked out if I buy the 25mm bolt one side will be centred so I just need to cut/file down the other side to fit.
The dowel measures appx 9mm in diameter so finger crossed it will fit.Posted 1 year ago | Go to post
Nice one, thanks @bigyanPosted 1 year ago | Go to post
<div class=”bbp-author-role”>Yeah ive done a few searches and found some barrel nuts that could fit, the offset makes it difficult but I think it will be ok if I can find one to cut down like you say.</div>
Cool, i’ll get searching. I’ll give the local bike shops a try as well.Posted 1 year ago | Go to post
How do you go about getting these things tested? Turn up to my local GP and tell them I read an article about heart condition and I want to get checked out?
Last time I went to the doctor for some scan results I told them about a mole on my shoulder that had grown recently, I was told it s a wart and the doctor kept mentioning about how they regular see a dermatologist.Posted 1 year ago | Go to post
Reply to: seat post rack mount
You mean one without a lip? I don’t think I’ve ever seen one, are you sure it exists?
How will if damage your frame if it’s mounting to a seatpost?
Its the one i posted above, mounts direct to a seat post: https://salsacycles.com/components/category/racks/post-lock
I’ll file a cheap seat clamp rack mount. Seat Clamp Rack mountPosted 1 year ago | Go to post
Reply to: seat post rack mount
Its for mounting to the seat post.
RE filing it down: I could do that but didn’t want a bodge as my frame is carbon.
Would like to buy the Salsa one but having trouble finding the seat post only version. Also the generic seat clamp rack mounts go for £7 while this one is £30+Posted 1 year ago | Go to post
Thanks guys, I’ll check em out
will be ending up around DorkingPosted 1 year ago | Go to post
Reply to: Road / gravel mix: 1x or 2x ?
A friend on our meetup rides a 1×11 road setup. He never struggles to keep up with the pace or the uphills.
We ride 40-80 miles most weekends. We are not a chain gang style club so never hitting consistent high speeds, but we do keep a decent pace.Posted 1 year ago | Go to post
I did the C2C last month on my Renegade Expert, 35mm Xplor USH. I’m pleased i did it on these and not my 28mm Contis. I did do it over 3 days though and with a seat pack.Posted 1 year ago | Go to post
I did the french Alps last summer and wish I had a 34t rear cassette. A friend who did have that setup (36/34) was spinning much faster and easier up the hills, and got king of the mountain. We didn’t have luggage though, with luggage I would definitely want at least 32t.
I have also done a 3 cities tour riding from London to Harwich, hook of Holland-Amsterdam, to Breda, then finally Brussels. About 100km a day and it was all totally flat, on cycle paths, no road. The paths were mixed terrain, the majority being smooth, but they can get a bit rough. I did this with Renegade Expert with 35mm tires and 10kg seatpack. I didn’t envy the guys on road bikes with 25-28c.
From my experience when touring generally the heavier bikes are normally at the back if the terrain is hilly, if its flat it made no difference.Posted 1 year ago | Go to post