Your Tyre Philosophy

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  • Your Tyre Philosophy
  • Premier Icon chakaping

    I’m a Maxxistentialist.


    What is a tyre, really?

    Premier Icon ahwiles

    big(ish) volume.

    round profile/section/whatever (some tyres are a bit ‘square’ – honestly).

    big knobs for grip – widely spaced to clear mud.

    replaced when shagged.

    Premier Icon Onzadog

    Normally a matched pair. Rubber queens currently to the rear runs in the opposite direction.

    I don’t worry about weight or rolling resistance, I just go for grip. Normally ride tyres all year round in the peak.


    As much volume as possible and as light as possible and low pressures.


    judging by threads on here i seem to almost completely not GAS

    I buy a set of tyres if they are crap i dont buy another set after i have worn them out but i do keep using them

    IME the main problem is it is wet or slippy or muddy or rooty or whatever and blaiming the tyre is a bit pointless

    They are all a compromise unless you only ride one area or say well drained Trail centres as not trye is perfect for all scenarios so just live with it is my philosophy
    I would not change a tyre for terrain personally or ask what tyre ever

    Mary Hinge

    Grippy front, hard wearing on the rear.

    Currently trying to stop being a tyre tart and just bloody ride! Trying to wear out every tyre I own before purchasing any new ones.

    Premier Icon bigjim

    What is a tyre, really?


    Premier Icon andytherocketeer

    Front and rear tyres do different jobs, therefore I (often) use different tyres F/R.

    I ignore all user reviews, since every tyre (well any product tbf) is both the dog’s danglies and a pile of doggy doo doo at the same time.

    Premier Icon tomd

    I go for black tyres, sometimes matching. I usually buy tyres to suit the current conditions and then struggle on with the mantra “it’ll dry out soon”. Soon never comes,and I’ll stick some MudXs on and do the same except thinking “it’ll rain soon”.


    Grip front, hard wearing/fast rolling on the back.

    Black and round, although I do have some skinwall SB8’s for the actual summer.

    Usualy have two or three sets for various conditions/times of year. Sometimes mix and match, but generaly run them in pairs unless the trails are really dry then usualy put something almost completely slick on the rear.

    It’s easier to say what I don’t do:

    Mix and match brands
    Small volume on the front
    Harder compound on the front
    Balder tread on the front


    I adapt my riding to suit the tyres 🙂


    round profile/section/whatever (some tyres are a bit ‘square’ – honestly)

    I prefer a ‘square’ profile tyre on the front…they have more bite when cornering in loose conditions.

    If you find a setup you’re happy with, stick with it! I used to keep chopping and changing, but keep going back to the same combo. I see someone mentioned that they’ve stuck with bad tyres until they’ve wore out?!? I’ve moved some tyres on after a few rides, due to them being downright dangerous!


    buy, fit, inflate, ride 😀

    Usually just get what LBS have in stock, currently on slant 6s as they were recommended for our local trails


    I tend to stick to my current fave all-rounder for a good while until I get tempted away by something new that looks like it might work better.
    Don’t change for conditions these days tbh, as most of the time a ride has a variety of terrain and therefore favours an all round, rather than a mud-specific pattern for example.
    Tread-wise I look for the fastest rolling I can get, while being grippy enough not to be useless in mud and heavy duty enough not to split at the first sign of a rock. Rounded profiles suit me better than square.
    Mostly I run the same tyres front and rear, so I can swap ends and replace one at a time.

    Premier Icon cookeaa

    When it comes to “Tyre philosophy” I’m in the Metaphysical Nihilist camp and don’t actually believe tyres exist at all…

    Premier Icon The Pinkster

    chakaping – Member
    I’m a Maxxistentialist.


    But my latest addition to the fleet came with the Stick E Tomac Nevegals fitted and i’m really impressed with them for my usual riding spots.

    therefore favours an all round, rather than a mud-specific pattern for example.

    True, I like my Purgatorys as they work well all round, enough grip in mud but don’t feel utterly rubbish on hardpack like Mud-X or Storms. But there are better tyres for summer when the mud compltely clears.


    I’ve tried many, and liked a few. Problem is when I get one I like, it’s no longer on special offer and is bound to be in the £50+ quid camp. No real discernible difference between the major names / makes / choices as long as its broadly fit for purpose IMHO.


    I’m a little unorthodox, tend to see the merits of both Maxxism and Contintental Philosophy.

    [edit] but what was that Vredestein said? “the limits of grip are the limits of my world…”

    *ok that edit was a poor one, IGMC.

    Premier Icon tomhoward

    Make (normally Maxxis) and model have to match front and rear, otherwise bad things will happen.

    Generally keep the same size F/R, 2.25-2.5 depending on the bike, if the option is available I use a softer compound on the front, harder on the rear. Or soft/soft.


    sticky front, harder compound on the rear. big volume especially on the rear (HC-HT). thick sidewalls. all-year performance preferable; can’t be doing with swapping tyres around (takes ages to line up the logos).

    currently run 2.4 Maxxis HR2 Exo, 3c front, 60a rear.

    Premier Icon christhetall

    Another tyre thread ? Please forgive but this is not about brands but about the concepts.

    Bikes are generally sold with matching tyres but I’m guessing most people change them to suit (my Gary Fisher bikes came with tyres suited for a California summer not the peak in winter).

    Do you ride with the same tyres front and back ?
    Do you go for more traction on the back, but less rolling resistence on the front ? Or vice versa
    What difference does size make ?
    Any particular tread features that you like ?


    Tyres wear out so quickly that I find them fun experimenting with and purchasing something different each time round. I don’t swap and change on my main bike – although I do a bit for racing on my race bike.

    I will usually get a new set when the rear is worn out, which leaves the front with a bit of life left which I then keep as a spare and which often gets used.

    Always go more grip up front. If swapping just one tyre move the front to the back. I usually get matching pairs but I’ve started experiementing with less grip at the rear with good success.

    Main failing point of tyres for me traditionally has been how well they protect against pinch punctures. Rarely stress about ‘grip’, I think it’s more technique if I’m falling off.

    Now gone tubeless and never want to go back to tubes.

    Premier Icon michaelbowden

    Nevagal DTC front and rear for about five years, though sometimes its a Stick-E on the front, depends on what I can pick up.

    I normally go with a new set for winter, by the time summer comes around they’ve worn down some so they roll a bit better on the hardpack anyway


    I now ride with a pressure guage and have been experimenting. Its altered my grip and presumptions a lot.

    I also prefer high confidence over things like light weight or less rolling resistance.

    That means a super tacky Minnion on the front, a HR 60a on the back.


    grippier front, low ro-res rear.
    levels of each dependent on bike.
    buy whatever’s fashionable/ good at the time.

    I swap tyres a lot but always Maxxis and a grippier tyre on the front.

    When they bring the Ardent Race out, it will be a brilliant XC tyre for the front, with a Crossmark for the back. Can’t wait.

    Premier Icon Yak

    Less grip and volume on the rear.
    Tubeless and low pressures 15/19psi

    One set of ‘summers’ and one set of ‘muds’

    Cheap as chips and try and run till worn out, patching any holes too big for sealant.

    Really, really try hard not to have a great big bag of ‘nearly worn, but might be useful tyres’.


    I tend to listen to the latest craze people are on about on forums (currently hans dampf front and nobby nic rear)… fit them and then when they are worn out replace with whatever the new craze is.

    Although I’m finding the current set up too draggy.

    When I used to ride/race DH I used high rollers as they were the craze tyre at the time and then for one very wet uplift put on a set of Maxxis swamp things… I ended up using them year round.

    Guess I’m a sucker for listening to internet opinions… at least I’ll admitt it though 🙂

    Put on, forget, ride, enjoy….

    Premier Icon Northwind

    There is no tyre.

    I like:
    Sweat more than pain, so rather have extra drip and drag than extra crash
    Likewise weight more than punctures- within reason
    Front grippier than back (but back still tough)
    Don’t care about mismatching brands
    Don’t mind paying a bit extra but do mind short-lived expensive tyres like my old Nics and my Barons.

    Premier Icon wonny j

    Zen like 2bliss?

    Premier Icon christhetall

    Thanks for all the replies – even the non-serious ones – but I’m afraid I’m struggling to understand things.

    By “Grippier” are people refering to knobbles or the compound or both. Actually I wasn’t that aware that compound made much difference – I just thought it was a lame excuse my mate once made for having to push his bike along a road at the end of ride.

    And why have more grip on the front than the back – surely you need more traction on the back to stop the wheel spinning ?


    A Hayekian High Roller not averse to abusing Minions.


    I go for large volume, big grippy front, slightly smaller, round profile low profile and fast rolling on the rear. Pretty much follow that pattern all year round.

    Current favourite combination is On One Chunky Monkey 2.4 Enduro (55A) up front and Maxxis Ikon 2.2 (60A) on the rear, both run tubeless.


    why have more grip on the front than the back – surely you need more traction on the back to stop the wheel spinning ?

    Personally I quite like the bike to go where I point it rather than slide out.

    My tyre philosophy?

    Big chunky tread pattern = winter use.
    Less chunky tread pattern = summer use.
    No tread pattern = road use.

    Beyond that I don’t really put much thought into it.

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 81 total)

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