- xtr brake bolt rounded – alloy
Its rounded – bike shop dont want to touch it – said they’d have to send it to their engineers and thus would cost a lot to sort … Should I use a hacksaw to create a groove on bolt head to try loosening with a flat head screwdriver ?- Or should I hacksaw the bolt im two inbetween the clamp hinge – or should I drill it out ?Posted 5 years ago
Dont really relish doing this but as Ive said the mechanics at LBS didn’t seem to like the look of it … If anyone’s sorted this same problem I’d be greatful to know which method worked for them … Wouldn’t mind replacing with Ti as alloy seems super soft – Tried at LBS to order replacement XT steel version but according to LBS it has to be XTR as shorter…
1. Never snapped an easy out (maybe I’m overly gentle with them). Mine were £6 but I use the tap handle from a tap and die set to drive it.
2. Steel bolts can be shortened or can be bought in a variety of standard lengths if that’s easier.
3. Go your good with a drill picking a drill bit of the same size as the bolt thread will allow you to very carefully drill the bolt head off. There will be a release of tension as the bolt head severs – be aware of it and stop drilling at this point.
Easy outs for me thoughPosted 5 years ago
It’s the xtr brake lever clamp bolt – M5 x 14.9 – there’s quite a space between the clamp hinge so im assuming that if I squeeze a hacksaw in and cut then open the hinge I should be able to remove both parts of the bolt with needle nose pliers – I’ll be well f##ked off if it goes tits up !Posted 5 years ago
Feel a bit more comfortable going for hacksaw method than drilling out the bolt – it was mentioned that ti bolt replacement a bad idea – because it could potentially damage brake lever thread – is this because the xtr lever is magnesium? – is it safe to say that these levers have a standard thread pitch – compatible with with after market bolts? If the magnesium thread is weak maybe stick with the replacement xtr bolts …Posted 5 years ago
Well it turns out that an aluminium brand x bottle cage holder bolt seems to be working just fine on the other lever and I will use the same on the chewed up side if I manage to get it off – does anyone know if the little clamp hinge should release if I cut the bolt between the clamp – ive already tried needle nose pliers between the gap between the hinge and can get no movement – Please understand I put absolutely zero excess torque on this bolt it just seized out of know where – I’m blaming the loctite!Posted 5 years agorickonSubscriber
I wouldn’t cut it out, you may end up with a struggle to get the bottom threads out. Stick some penetrating oil over the bolt, bang a torx into it first, then if that fails cut a slot, then if that fails – big eazy-out. Then when that fails, get the drill out.
Then the big hammer.Posted 5 years agoslackaliceSubscriber
I’m blaming the loctite!
I hope you’re joking?! On a clamp fastening? If so, I blame who ever thought that would be a good idea.
Fine mini hacksaw as close to the bolt head in the gap of the clamp band as you can and once the bolt is cut through, open the clamp and if it’s got loctite on the threads, you’ll be needing to find some Mole-Grips with good jaws to try and clamp the stump of bolt left.Posted 5 years ago
If you drill the head off like I and others suggested then you should be able to remove the lever and hopefully have enough threaded section to get a decent grip on to unscrew. I wouldn’t use a hacksaw as there will be very little to grip and you risk damaging your bars or lever.Posted 5 years ago
My only worry about drilling the bolt head off is that when I did this to a seized chainring bolt – I still had to use a rubber mallet to get the chainring to break free – with the brake lever if it doesn’t free up immediately after bolt head is drilled off then I’ll still be left with hinge clamp stuck on the bars – Im thinking in order to do a sufficiently thorough drill job I’m going to be dangerously close to the hinge clamp’s thread ….Posted 5 years agoslackaliceSubscriber
You only need to remove the head of the bolt and some of the threaded section thats inserted into this bit of the clamp that isn’t threaded, to enable you to get the clamp past the bit thats left, not drill the whole thing out.
So start with something like a 3mm drill bit to this depth, you can use some tape around the bit as a depth marker. Then do the same with incrementally bigger bits, i.e. 3.5, 4, 4.5 and finally, 5mm, 5.5mm may well be needed to separate the head from the threaded section. You may find you don’t need to go in 0.5mm steps, so see how you go.
Once you’ve done this, you should be able to place a lever like a flat blade screwdriver between the clamp surfaces and gently prise them apart and over the stub remaining.
You’ll obviously find it easier to work on if you rotate the bars, so that the bolt head is pointing up.Posted 5 years ago
So the saga continues !Posted 5 years ago
Really wanted this sorted asap – and took the bike to the other LBS in town – the guys in there were super helpful and went for the hacksaw method and sorted it in no time – However as soon as I took bike out of the shop I realised my other lever was way out – as if the reach adjust had been opened all the way out – very strange I thought… So I took the bike back inside and showed them what had happened explaining that it was nothing like that when I bought the bike in for repair – Turns out the piston inside the lever was broken and according to mechanic there are no spare parts available for XTR race brake lever .. They were very apologetic and have agreed to sort it but they have to pay for the new lever which isn’t cheap ..
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