Viewing 33 posts - 1 through 33 (of 33 total)
  • Wooden flooring.
  • jam-bo
    Full Member

    Seen an ok deal in b+q, £28/sq metre for 150mm wide solid oak.

    Where else should I be looking? Need about 11 sq m

    iDave
    Free Member

    A floorstyle consultant will be along shortly 😉

    carlos
    Free Member

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    deadlydarcy
    Free Member

    A floorstyle consultant will be along shortly

    Smartarse 😛

    Anything under £30/sqm is good value. Steer clear of pre-lacquered – marks too easily.

    Lengths will be short in pre-packaged boxes from B&Q, meaning that the boards that aren’t 150mm (of which there will be a few) will cause a few gaps here and there.

    You gets what you pays for to be honest. Fitting it yourself?

    ransos
    Free Member

    We have engineered oak, from Howdens. Looks great, scratch resistant, dents far too easily.

    deadlydarcy
    Free Member

    dents far too easily.

    It’s wood.

    ransos
    Free Member

    It’s wood.

    My kitchen worktops are also oak, and appear to be far more durable…on the other hand, I don’t think the odd scratch or dent affects the appearance of wood, unlike synthetic materials.

    deadlydarcy
    Free Member

    Kitchen worktops don’t tend to have things dropped on them (from a height) or people walking on them all the time either.

    ransos
    Free Member

    Kitchen worktops don’t tend to have things dropped on them (from a height) or people walking on them all the time either.

    Well, obviously you know better, despite not living in my house.

    RustyMac
    Full Member

    My mum got solid oak flooring put in the bathroom a few years back. About a year ago my sister had a pary and one of her rather well built friends used the loo, she was wearing kitten heals and it looked like the local rugby team had been trough there the next day.

    deadlydarcy
    Free Member

    Well, obviously you know better

    I possibly do, just on this one subject though. Cheers. 🙂

    Earl_Grey
    Full Member

    Lengths will be short in pre-packaged boxes from B&Q, meaning that the boards that aren’t 150mm (of which there will be a few) will cause a few gaps here and there.

    I’ve just laid some and I found this, glad it wasn’t solely down to my cack handedness. Not a huge number of gaps (2 or 3 places in 18sqm) and not really noticeable until you get down to floor level so I am fairly happy all in all.

    ransos
    Free Member

    I possibly do, just on this one subject though. Cheers

    I hadn’t realised that you’d seen the wood used my house. My apologies.

    deadlydarcy
    Free Member

    Accepted, honestly, you’ve said enough already. 🙂

    jam-bo
    Full Member

    You gets what you pays for to be honest. Fitting it yourself?

    More than likely. Unless I can kidnap sharki again for a weekend.

    joolsburger
    Free Member

    I got mine here

    Home

    khani
    Free Member

    Listen to DD, about wood floors he knows his onions, if I’d have known about his onions about 6 months ago my life would have been a lot easier I suspect 😕

    chunkypaul
    Free Member

    Steer clear of pre-lacquered – marks too easily.

    mmmm was going to use this B&Q’s Colours Simplift Oak flooring in the hall and lounge (17 sq.m), floating system as my floors have had dpm, concrete and then screed laid

    http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=11547635&fh_view_size=10&fh_eds=%3f&fh_location=%2f%2fcatalog01%2fen_GB%2fcategories%3c%7b9372013%7d%2fcategories%3c%7b9372028%7d%2fcategories%3c%7b9372109%7d%2fspecificationsProductType%3dsolid_wood_flooring&isSearch=false

    any alternative flooring recommendations? must be oak, either solid or engineered

    deadlydarcy
    Free Member

    That stuff looks ok chunky; the “Finish: Brushed UV matt lacquer” means that it’s a bit textured, so it wears a little bit better (already looks a bit worn, if you know what I mean). The click together stuff is easy enough to fit, but whatever you do, spend a while getting your first few rows straight. Really! It’ll make the rest go more smoothly.

    Btw, for £44.92 per sqm, you could probably find something pre-oiled (which gives you more options for self-maintenance in the long term).

    Points to note:

    Often it’s easier to cut a whole row, click the ends together then slowly fit the whole new row into the existing one (you’ll see what I mean when you start doing it).

    Have a plastic tamping block handy – and a lump hammer – there will be times when it needs a bit of persuasion!

    Beware when it comes to fitting under door-linings, architraves etc at the other side of the room as you normally have to angle the flooring upwards to get it to click in. Plan for this and you’ll be fine – measure across the room – subtract 20mm (for 10mm expansion gaps either side) and divide by the width of the boards – if you get an answer like 17.13, then you need to adjust the first board accordingly i.e. lay half a board to allow you as wide as possible a board at the other side (the narrower the last rip you have to fit, the more of a ballache it is).

    I’ve been laying solids for 10 years now and I still find the odd click together job a bit of arse to do. Plan, set out first three rows, plan again, off you go. Take your time, and if you get any problems when you’re doing it, you can always post here. 🙂

    my floors have had dpm, concrete and then screed laid

    How long ago? General rule is a month an inch to dry out enough for a wood floor – consider painting on a two part DPM such as Sika Primer MB – it’s pricey but not as much as a new floor – I won’t lay onto concrete anymore without using it first.

    Edukator
    Free Member

    Does the wood have FSC, PEFC, HQE or ISo 14001 stickers on it? I found some locally grown pine boards that did. They were seconds but with careful selection very little went in the wood burner – 7e/m2 for 21mm thick boards. If you use a quality water-based varnish it toughens up the surface a lot, but it’s still wood as noted above. If they suggest two coats use four.

    fullysussed
    Free Member

    We’re about to choose a wood floor, but dont know what to do. We were quoted £85/ sq metre from a local supplier to provide nice long planks and fit them, including finishing it all in-situ, but that works out ridiculously expensive. Do like the finish on an in-situ sealed floor, but is this something you can do yourself?

    Not so keen on the B&Q fit it yourself jobbies on the most part, dont look as good. There seems to be a big price jump from these to the ‘seal it in situ’ stuff.

    Also, they were suggesting using darkened oak instead of walnut to get the dark colour, but I guess this would fade with time whereas mohogany wouldnt.

    I’ve also heard of people driving to france to pick up flooring as its much cheaper there – anyone done that?

    Edukator
    Free Member

    If you want “pin des Landes” then France is indeed a cheap source: 7-12e/m2 depending on thickeness and the amount of knots. £28/m2 for good quality oak doesn’t shock and I doubt you’ll find cheaper in France.

    chunkypaul
    Free Member

    Cheers dd

    Not planning on doing it myself, and will be replacing the skirting at the same anyway, the concretes been down over ten years and been covered with the cheapest laminate – time for a change

    Only thing unsure about is whether the matt lacquer can have new lacquer rolled straight on top or whether it has to be sanded first

    kayak23
    Full Member

    I’d go here if I were you. Its my sister and bro in laws business…
    floors covered

    Vern0n
    Free Member

    i got mine from here:
    flooringsupplies.co.uk

    oiled finish rather than varnish / laquered

    very pleased

    V

    mastiles_fanylion
    Free Member

    Sorry but what the piss are kitten heels?

    geoffj
    Full Member

    Sorry but what the piss are kitten heels?

    [quote]

    Google Theresa May (careful with the spelling now 8) ) + kitten heels

    Then file under ‘women you fancy which you really shouldn’t’
    😳

    deadlydarcy
    Free Member

    Also, they were suggesting using darkened oak instead of walnut to get the dark colour, but I guess this would fade with time whereas mohogany wouldnt.

    Whoa there…you’re getting your woods mixed up. If you like a walnut floor, then by all means go ahead, but it’s softer than a soft thing – if the oak has been darkened by smoking or steaming or baking, then it should give you that chocolate look without darkening over time.

    In general, steer clear of mahogany unless you know where it’s come from.

    £85/sqm supplied and fitted isn’t all that unrealistic (depending on your site, location, size of the job, various other teeth-sucking parameters 🙂 ). If you’re going for walnut or baked/steamed oak, then you’d probably be looking at high £40s/sqm, I’d need to see where the other £30-40 is coming from to tell you if it’s good value.

    fullysussed
    Free Member

    Ahh OK, thanks, will steer clear of walnut then. Yes, I meant walnut not mahogany, sorry. Thanks for all the useful info, this is really helping solve my headache of the last few weeks (we have to fit the floor soon as we’re waiting for it so our chimmney install can be completed). Apologies if this is a hijack but I dont think it is, since we want pretty much the same thing.

    The £80 quoted was £50 for the raw wood, which they would then dye dark and finish, and the other £30 was for the labour, dye and finishing materials. Total size is approx 70sq m.

    I’m pretty sure they add a fat wodge of laziness tax onto it, so I plan to source untreated wood elsewhere (smoked etc oak, based on your recommendations), try and fit it and sand it myself (just hire a big sander from HSS, and then get probably get a pro to do the final finish), reckon I could shave the total cost down to £55/metre (guessing) which over that area is a couple of grand saving, i.e. not to be sniffed at. I feel a trip to france beckoning.

    deadlydarcy
    Free Member

    Whereabouts are you fullysussed?

    deadlydarcy
    Free Member

    £50 for wood which then gets stained dark?

    That sounds a bit pricey-wicey.

    If you want dark wood, then buy dark wood. The smoking/steaming/baking process has enabled the client to get a dark and also hard-wearing wood – like oak. The beauty of these jobbies is that if they get scratched or marked, you don’t end up revealing unstained timber underneath.

    fullysussed
    Free Member

    Im in Dorking, Surrey.

    Totally with you on the smoked/ steamed/ baked route, just not too many companies seem to do it (googles for these tend to turn up stuff which ends up being “smoked look” or something like that). Will keep looking later, in the meantime the sun is shining and the trails are beckoning.

    (email in profile if you want to contact me directly)

    deadlydarcy
    Free Member

    I’ll drop you a line dude. There are a few suppliers I know of where you can get the product you want but on a phone now so will have a look later.

Viewing 33 posts - 1 through 33 (of 33 total)

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