So I’m making a workbench as a way to learn a bit of woodwork whilst also getting a non-shit workbench.  I’ve been cutting up a load of 2×4 by hand and whilst I’m getting better at sawing especially some of the early cuts are not very neat and/or straight.  What’s the best way to straighten the cuts?  Clamp the wood in a vice and use a rough file, or a plane?  Something else?

Mark square lines on your timbers and use a sharp plane to tidy them up. Make a good mitre saw your next purchase👍

Yeah now I discover that screwfix have 50 quid mitre saws 😉

Would https://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-no-4-smoothing-plane/1337c be suitable?

The plane in your link won’t be up to it- you’ll do well to keep the blade sharp enough. I’ve the two Stanley planes below. If you’re serious spend once and buy decent quality.

Tooltique.co.uk sell fully refurbished Stanley (and other) planes. Not massively expensive but will be far better than a cheapo new one.

If you don’t have a square already, get one – draw all the way around and practice keeping to the line. Let the saw do the work and it should keep straight without much correction needed.

Ooh, cool.  I presume I’m after a block plane for this sort of thing?  https://www.tooltique.co.uk/shop/vintage-record-tools-no-110-block-plane-fully-refurbished/ is an option.

Yes, got a square.  Used it to teach my son some geometry while we were making a swing this afternoon.

Once you’ve drawn on your square line, stand right over it and concentrate on sawing down the line.  This might sound obvious but a lot of people stand off to one side and wander off as a result.

As others have said, mark your lines all the way round. Get a comfortable grip on the saw, point your first finger down the length of the saw (as opposed to gripping with it). Line your saw up to one side of your line (the waste side), shoulder in line with the saw and the cut line.

I use the thumb on my grip hand to line the saw blade for the initial cut. Start with small gentle strokes then build up using long smooth strokes finishing the cut with small strokes again. Don’t force the saw, it should be a smooth action.

Its all about practice and muscle memory…… I’ve been a joiner practically all my life, everything is about practice until it becomes second nature.

I love Jap pull saws….. A slightly different action to a western saw but I find them much more accurate and intuitive to use.

For planing end grain you’ll need a block plane, preferably a low angle…… It needs to be razor sharp, sharp enough to shave with. But planing end grain is not easy and you can easily make a mess of things. Best to get your first cut perfect.

Just buy a mitre saw. The evolution rage is pretty good value. Once set up will cut square. You can take a tiny bit off the end of the existing cut (down to less than a blade’s width) to straighten them and it’ll take seconds. Very handy tool for all sorts of woodworking

point your first finger down the length of the saw

I also had to be informed of this years ago by a mate who saw me gripping with all four fingers. The handle will have a groove for your index finger. It really does make a difference.

To be honest though, buy a mitre saw – either one of the screwfix evolution jobbies or a second hand desalt/makita/hitachi – preferably with a slide. Planing endgrain is a right old ballache.

Apart from the “measure twice cut once” mantra, I like “leave it as long as you can for as long as you can.” 😀

If using hand tools Paul Sellers “knife wall” technique will give you a very crisp edge. It’s a bit tedious for using on every cut, and also slightly wasteful, but well worth doing for important joints.

I’d always be wary of cheap power tools. For that reason I’ve never quite justified buying a really good mitre saw that would only get occasional use.

Just buy a mitre saw

While a mitre saw is useful and quick being able to mark and cut accurately by hand is a basic and useful skill.

Op make sure you are using a good Sharp pencil or a knife if you want to cut accurately you first need to layout accurately.

If you want to get really accurate hand cut joints after marking you can chisel a accurate saw guide along your markings. A shooting board is also good for cleaning up 90 and 45 angles.

Just buy a mitre saw

While a mitre saw is useful and quick being able to mark and cut accurately by hand is a basic and useful skill.

Op make sure you are using a good Sharp pencil or a knife if you want to cut accurately you first need to layout accurately.

If you want to get really accurate hand cut joints after marking you can chisel a accurate saw guide along your markings. A shooting board is also good for cleaning up 90 and 45 angles.

While a mitre saw is useful and quick being able to mark and cut accurately by hand is a basic and useful skill.

For when your mitre saw isn’t working.

I use the thumb on my grip hand to line the saw blade for the initial cut. Start with small gentle strokes then build up using long smooth strokes finishing the cut with small strokes again. Don’t force the saw, it should be a smooth action.

always fold your thumb in and use the knuckle to steady the saw on first gentle strokes, having your thumb extended  will result in cutting through your thumb or thumb nail and it doesnt half hurt