I kinda have it my own head what I’d do – but just wondering if anyone has any other (better) ideas…
Back story…offered toddler bed for sale…friend/acquaintance/neighbour came to see it…agreed price…came to collect…when we took it apart, we saw this. I can’t really say “sorry mate, sold as seen” as it would be a bit awkward. Anyway, as they think I can do all sort of wonderful stuff with wood (little do they know…), they’ve asked (nicely) if I could fix it.
Material is 18mm Birch. There’s very little material to get a fixing in. The split is so small, it’s a struggle to get any decent amount of glue in there, and if I pry it apart to get more glue in, I just risk splitting it more and making it look even worse – especially with a painted finish.
Anyone got any clever ideas? (I have an assortment of clamps, wood glues, etc at my disposal.)
And, yes, I know it probably belongs in the “Aaargh – my eye” thread. 🙂
Spread the split open a little then pva and cramp it up if you can take the wooden dowels out of the other end put them in for more surface area to glue to
Put pva in sringe
Tease open with a screwdriver
Squirt in pva liberally
Wipe excess away
Wait for a few mins for crack to take in glue (Capillary action)
Protect surface with offcut or card
Clamp tight
Wipe again
Wait 24hrs
Glued joint should be stronger than the wood
Would also be worth putting a clamp on further down so you can’t extend the split if opening it a touch to get glue in
Glue and clamps is how I’d go too. I might even put a slim screw or two through from the outside into the base rail, at a slight angle and well countersunk in then filled and painted over the heads.
viscous liquids are a bastard to get down a needle so you may need to dilute the glue down. If you’re buying the syringe & needle, get luer-lock so you avoid a bukkake incident 😀
Wot tiger said. A small bottle of wood glue with a nozzle should suffice, spread the crack pour in some glue and infer so gravity helps the glue into the gap. Clamp it up and it will be better than new. Clamping is the key here.
Get a couple of layers of masking tape over the end, to seal the crack and block the dowel holes. Then get an old rag and put it over the end of your vacuum nozzle – hold in place with an elastic band. Now hold the cloth-covered nozzle to one side of the exposed crack while squeezing glue into the other. Vacuum will pull glue through and liberally coat the inside surfaces. Clamp the rail until the glue goes off. You could even fit new (glued) dowels into the holes before clamping, then re-drill when it’s all set.
Folks ain’t reading the not dowel holes bit… 🙂
Don’t need syringes or owt like that imho.
Mask the painted areas to protect, force pva into the crack with your fingers. Just keep wiping it into there, wipe it in further with the edge of some thin plastic or paper.
When you apply pressure it’ll spread too.
Cramp it up overnight. Done.
PVA wood glue comes with a tapered nozzle attached, all that’s needed is to cut the seal off the end carefully to give the smallest hole, then squirt as much glue into the crack along the sides and at the end, put tape or some thin bits of wood like lolly sticks between a couple of clamps and the object and clamp up tight. Wipe off the excess that oozes out and leave for 24 hours, get a bit of rolled up damp cloth and push into the holes to clean out excess there to let the dowels fit back in.
It’s amazing what you can do with wood glue and bits of wood, I’ve just made a replacement zip pull tag out of a couple of lolly sticks glued together, shaped to fit the zip pull, a hole drilled through and a bit of paper clip cut off and glued through the holes and through the tag. Works a treat, to my surprise!
There’s always Titebond polyurethane glue, unlike other similar glues the excess dries soft so you can pick it off with your nails. Just warm the glue up to make it nice and runny.