Wobbly race face cranks

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  • Wobbly race face cranks
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    this happened to my diabolous – do them up tight enough to stop the wobble and they seize up, not tight enough and the bolts come loose
    I got rid in the end as I couldn’t work it out and they weighed a ton anyway


    First the good news, Shimano, Middleburn and FSA cranks fit Race Face Bottom brackets.

    If you’re lucky it’s just the spacer that needs replacing (for about £5) and it’ll be fine.

    If you’re not then it’ll be worn splines, however is the spacer is missing then the chances are that the cranks will wobble anyway.

    Premier Icon BigJohn

    You might find the splines are extending beyond the face of the crank so the bolt is just tightening on the shaft. Try grinding a couple of mm off the axle and reassembling. Worked for me.

    Premier Icon wwaswas

    you need all the spacers there to get it to fit right an preload the bb bearings correctly

    Anyone see where you can get the rubber spacer?
    Thanks guys


    There is this little bikeshop just over the Irish Sea from me:


    I think it does mail order. I don’t know what the different colours mean though.



    Assuming the play is between the crank and the axle rather than in the bb, yes – they are knackered. Mine had that, sent them back and got the reply ‘wear and tear’. No wonder they went under. Useless.


    I think I already know the answer.. But recently I fitted a new bb to some deus cranks. In doing this a rubber washer/ o ring thing behind the crank disintegrated.
    Now the cranks have a wobble even with the bolts done up monkey arm tight

    Are the cranks knackered?
    If so will any other non race face crank fit that bb?
    Is there a quick fix?


    Mr awelon, nice but that’s the wrong spacer..those are the plastic chain line spacer, I’m missing the rubber back of the crank washer thing

    Knackered they are then..


    The same has just happened to me i’m gonna change the bearings. I hope it isn’t new cranks 🙁


    Customer of ours had one of those missing too, ridiculously overpriced to replace it, a fibre washer from an engineers supplier did the job nicely(free too).


    I think the idea of this design is that the 8mm bolt tightens up against the axle, thus pushing the crank to exactly the right position to get correct bearing pre-load. This seems odd compared to other systems where you’re always tightening against the crank, and therefore have to be careful not to over tighten. So with RF cranks done up very tight, if you don’t have the correct amount spacers and a well faced BB shell, you will crush the bearings or not apply the correct load, i.e. tightening up more doesn’t keep pushing the crank arm inwards. Grinding a few mm off the axle might work, but you’d need to remove chainline spacers to compensate otherwise you’ll crush the bearings.

    My Atlas crank did come loose the other day, simply because I’d not tightened the 8mm bolt after refitting it. I only noticed after an hour of hammering up and down Jacob’s Ladder, so I expected the worst. However, once back home, I completely degreased the axle and bolt threads and all splines, dried it all, refitted it with loads of loctite and did up the 8mm bolt with a huge amount of torque (it’s all steel, so won’t break). It’s been OK since then, so I think I may have saved it all. If this fails, I will resort to grinding back the axle a bit.


    Hey, I run a diabolus crank that I bought for £10 on feebay, it had damaged splines, I have simply installed two small grub screws via helicoils and thread locked them and the end cap that comes loose, they seem to be working fine!

    I think it would work for most xtype raceface cranks!


    grinding axles wtf, get an elastomer..80p from lbs..

    Orange Lad

    Your missing the 1mm chainline spacer. They are £1.99 from crc there are two of them one each side of the cranks.

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