Viewing 24 posts - 1 through 24 (of 24 total)
  • Winterising a classic motorbike
  • anagallis_arvensis
    Full Member

    I have inherited a 1978 Honda GL 1000. What should I get organised to look after it over winter. All that chrome is not going out in the winter.

    chewkw
    Free Member

    Oohhhh … a nice Gold Wing. I like. 😀

    You should post some pics on this thread.

    anagallis_arvensis
    Full Member

    Taken a few years ago when my dad and I went to Aberystwyth for the weekend.

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    chewkw
    Free Member

    Ya, that’s very nice indeed. 😀

    craigxxl
    Free Member

    ACF50 is your friend. Warm it up before applying to get a nice fine spray.

    granny_ring
    Full Member

    Pretty sure some guys at work vacupack their bikes, not sure if they put something on the chrome first though.

    anagallis_arvensis
    Full Member

    Anyone any tips on stopping fuel going off and gumming up the carbs.

    Pigface
    Free Member

    Put a trickle charger on it, start it up every couple of weeks, nice clean dry garage. Unless you want to go to ridiculous lengths that and the ACF 50

    How much chrome 😯

    martymac
    Full Member

    drain the carbs.
    or start it every week and let it tickover until its warmed up.
    worked on my gt380 😀

    BillMC
    Full Member

    I have known people to cover them with sheets to allow them to breath. Tasty bike, I always liked the look of them. Salt is the killer.

    anagallis_arvensis
    Full Member

    By drain the carbs, which I remember my dad saying he did, do you just turn the fuel tap off and run till it stops or is it more tricky than that? And then whats the process for starting again? Anyone use fuel stabiliser?

    rocketman
    Free Member

    If you’re not going to ride it simply give it a good clean with WD40 and some rags. And keep it dry

    Take the battery out and charge it every couple of weeks. Obv don’t start the bike unless you’re going to ride it

    Lift the wheels off the ground or at least reposition the bike from time-to-time

    With the fuel you can either drain the tank and the float bowls or use lawnmower fuel stabiliser

    anagallis_arvensis
    Full Member

    I was thinking of keeping the tank full to prevent condensation?
    How do I drain float bowls?

    rocketman
    Free Member

    There’s usually a drain plug on the float bowls

    There’s so much ethanol in modern fuel that filling the tank arguably makes things worse but tbh I’ve never had a problem with it

    martymac
    Full Member

    i usually started mine about once a week, run til its hot then turn off fuel tap and let it run til it stopped.
    didnt know anything about fuel stabiliser, that sounds great.

    finishthat
    Free Member

    Change all the oils before you hibernate the beast – absolutely never do the startup every now and then – this is the worst equivalent of the short trip – fills the engine and exhausts with corrosive condensation.
    Brake fluid is worth changing if you can – stops the water in it corroding
    specific areas because it is never moving.
    Remove the battery and store it somewhere dry where you can give it a charge once a month.
    Clean and wax polish the bike before storage – chrome can have some extra
    protection acf or similar – decent cover for the bike essential – not plastic.
    Pump the tyres up and make sure its on the centre stand .
    Fuel wise I would either drain all including carbs or fill up with premium
    and run bike with tap off to drain carbs.

    Edit – its water cooled – refresh the antifreeze if its old – definitely check its not just water in there.

    weeksy
    Full Member

    Fuel these days isn’t the factor it once was 20 years ago. A lot of people get stuck in the past about how things were in their day. These days fuel isn’t going to go ‘off’ in the 4 months over winter.

    Denis99
    Free Member

    Good advice from finishthat.

    I would only add that I used to get both wheels off the ground.

    Rear can be supported by your centre stand, the front can be supported by any of the dedicated stands for removing the front wheel.

    Regards

    Denis

    anagallis_arvensis
    Full Member

    Edit – its water cooled – refresh the antifreeze if its old – definitely check its not just water in there.

    Thats been done last week. Rad had to be removed to change the timing belts.

    Fuel these days isn’t the factor it once was 20 years ago. A lot of people get stuck in the past about how things were in their day. These days fuel isn’t going to go ‘off’ in the 4 months over winter.

    Hmmn, thats not what I have read and been told, although I will discuss with a tame mechanic. Most of the online stuff about these old goldwings is US based so maybe the petrol mix is different over there. Most recommend STABIL additive and keeping the tank full but carbs empty. Thanks for the adice every one.

    anagallis_arvensis
    Full Member

    Also would I be better keeping the battery in the house and charging once a month or connecting it to an optimate type thing?

    Bustaspoke
    Free Member

    Regarding fuel.I drain the tank & run the bike until the float bowls have drained,everything I’ve read advises draining the tank as modern fuel additives attract water & cause the tank to rust,plus the idle jets get bunged up with residue from the old fuel.
    As stated above don’t start the bike as that creates lots of condensation.

    finishthat
    Free Member

    RE- the battery – I would pop it in the house and charge ad-hoc – keep in small plastic crate to avoid acid spills.
    Permanent connection to charger – not really – not for months – more of a safety thing really especially if there is any condensation risk.

    Regarding the fuel – the stabilisers are definitely worth using.
    For bikes that never get used in the rain the ethanol issue is less serious – apart from the melting rubber fuel pipes – the real issue is with bikes that get used in the wet – fuel fillers and vents can allow damp/water into tank – combines with ethanol in dead areas of the tank and rusts out the bottom/seams. possibly not an issue with the GoldWing as the tanks is under the seat.

    Sounds like you are on top of the beast with changing belts etc.
    Possibly add fork oil to the list if its not done.

    rocketman
    Free Member

    Also would I be better keeping the battery in the house and charging once a month or connecting it to an optimate type thing?

    Up to you.

    Have owned sportsbikes where the battery is no bigger than a wallet and hidden under a pile of electronics in which case it’s just easier to take the battery out and keep it in the house

    Other bikes I’ve charged in situ. Batteries discharge at a slower rate when they’re cold I find a boost every couple of weeks or so is fine

    possibly not an issue with the GoldWing as the tanks is under the seat

    Gold Wing tanks are plastic are they not 😕

    anagallis_arvensis
    Full Member

    Sounds like you are on top of the beast with changing belts etc.

    I paid a professional!! I am a mechanical numpty. I dont mind changing oil or brake fluid but I wouldnt want to get timing belts wrong!!

    Prett sure mine has a metal tank, modern ones might be plastic

Viewing 24 posts - 1 through 24 (of 24 total)

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