- Will I be happy with TRP Spyres?
After months of indecisiveness I’m getting a diverge for my new commuter/gnarmac/gravel bike.
I’m torn between the two smartweld models.
£1200 one is the sensible option with tiagra which I really like as a group set and relatively cheap to replace bits as they wear it.
However it has TRP Spyres… I don’t like cable discs really, on a brief few tries with these they seem very lacking in power.
The £1800 model is 105 hydraulic (and a better colour…)
Buying the cheaper one means I can get a lot of bits with it for my budget to kit myself out a bit. Other one wipes out my budget…
People who have had spyres do you think I will cope or will I end up buying a 105 groupset…Posted 3 years agoscaredypantsSubscriber
are you a decent mechanic ? people seem to say they need to be well set up (just as they say for BB7’s which I’d say can be made to work very well)
That said, only you know if you’ll ever be satisfied or you’ll be looking at that green, green grass on the other side of the £1800 fencePosted 3 years ago
I’m a professional/full qualified bike mechanic so I hope I can cope with them.
It’s all in my head really, just don’t like cable discs but I reality I am overspending at £1200 for a bike that’s main function is to ride 7miles a day… So £1800 is stupid really. Doesn’t mean I don’t want to do it though.Posted 3 years agocookeaaSubscriber
Are you ready to buy sooner rather than later or can you hold out for hydraulic tiagra discs?
Having played with some friends 105 equipped CX bikes I am sold on hydraulic discs for drop-bared bikes, but not at any cost, needs to be affordable, if it is coming to tiagra then I have hope.Posted 3 years agocorrodedMember
I’ve got Spyres on one road bike and hydraulic disks on another (GT Grade). The Spyres are good. The hydros are absolutely brilliant. Much more confidence inspiring on fast, steep descents and less faff. I’d say that you won’t be disappointed by Spyres, just don’t try the hydros…Posted 3 years agodavidtaylforthMember
I’ve got Spyres; the rear one works just fine, the front is a bit shit these days. I think cos the post mount on the fork hasn’t been faced (won’t be an issue for you with a fully assembled new bike).
They’re a piece of piss to strip down and service, and also set up (if you have faced brake mounts). I’d go for them, definitely worth spending the money saved on anything else other than hydro brakes.Posted 3 years agotomdSubscriber
Should be fine, mine have just done a hard winter and still work perfectly well. They are definitely not on a par with good hydraulics but are a well modulated with decent, reliable power. The stock pads don’t last well in the wet, but you can use proper Shimano pads.Posted 3 years agotheredsnapperMember
Some are saying change the stock pads….but what too? And what what compassionless cables are recommended? Do the finned Shimano Pads fit, and would they make any real difference, I’m thinking for fast road touring/blasting possibly alpine type descents on road?
Apologies for hijacking the thread, just looking for some pointers/clarification!
RedPosted 3 years ago
theredsnapper – Member
…And what what compassionless cables are recommended?…
For best results replace the fixed parts of the cable outer with solid tubing. I buy alloy tubing from B&Q – it can be bent in gentle curves just using thumb pressure, and for liner I use teflon airhose – available from any air tools supplier – just get a size that will allow your cable inner to move freely.
Here’s pic of it one one of my bikes:
If you go to the Flickr page, you’ll see more.Posted 3 years agodavosaurusrexSubscriber
I bought an ex demo Defy with Spyres. Rode them about 3 times, last time in the wet and they were howling, didn’t much like them in the dry either. Had already been spoiled by using 785s on my brothers bike though. Sold the calipers for £75 and the 105 STIs for £75 and spent £300 on the 785s from Merlin so total cost to change was £150 maths fans! Much happier now.Posted 3 years ago
Have Spires on my Genesis road bike. Been commuting for a year on and off with no problems (around 4k) and still on my first set of pads although do need a new set. The only problem is a bit of a squeal in the wet which was cured by sanding the discs slightly. Use Jagwire no compression cables. I’m 17 stone and they stop me pretty well, no complaints.Posted 3 years ago
AlexSimon – Member
epicyclo – I’ve never heard of that before – is it a fairly common hack? My instant worry was wear, and then the joins.
Don’t know. I’d never seen it before I did it, but like everything there’s nothing new under the sun. Avid used to make something similar, but with less bendable tubing so you could only do straight sections.
The joins between the flexible outer and the tubing are easy. Just get a slightly larger section tube and cut short sections. Slip it over the smaller and you have a junction. A bit of epoxy and that’s it. Also flexible v-brake noodles are useful, but not necessary.
I’ve used the same idea on my drum brake bikes, with the result that the drums work very well.
I’ve even used a modified version to improve the brakes on a rod brake bike.Posted 3 years ago
I remember back in days of old buying some sealed cables that had an outer made of interlocking metal beads with a hole in that were compressionless and you just added and removed as many as you needed to fit the bike. Can’t remember what they were called but I had a set on my XTR V brakes and they worked well.
Nokons says google and I’m glad they still exist, although 45 quid seems steep..Posted 3 years ago
I used to use Nokon. They are good, but they do have a tendency to not curve sweetly – their curves are often more like the sides of a polygon.
I was intending to use it for the flexible parts of my system, but it already works really well so I have never bothered.Posted 3 years ago
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