Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 58 total)
  • Whyte T130 Shock damage (again)
  • phil5556
    Full Member

    My 2017 T130 is off for a suspension service & my mechanic has just sent me these

    Video here: https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ai1MND50GmRyhuQLG_i8aTxa1YYQ3A?e=Sk1cpu

    Reading around the internet Whytes and Monarchs have a habit of doing this apparently. Frame out of warranty so I guess I’ll be looking for a new shock. It’s 216 x 63 which appears to be an uncommon size – anyone know where to find one for not crazy money?

    It’s the second time it’s killed a shock, this one is only 2 years old and had relatively little use.

    I’m waiting to hear back from Whyte in a very optimistic hope that they’ll help again…

    sillyoldman
    Full Member

    Probably worth getting a shock with rose-joint eyelets like DT R535 if the frame alignment is that poor.

    nwgiles
    Free Member

    video link doesn’t work…

    Bikester have a few in currently

    phil5556
    Full Member

    What about this one?

    https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ai1MND50GmRyhuQLSLxByULTzOBlCg

    sillyoldman
    Full Member

    1st link worked for me.

    binman
    Full Member

    Is it a Monarch or Monarch plus ?

    Have you checked your pivot bearings are all good  and spacing washers are in place ?

    PrinceJohn
    Full Member

    I eventually sold my T-130 because of eating shocks, managed to get the first one under warranty the 2nd one came from CRC – I couldn’t ride it knowing every time I went over the bike the shock was being destroyed.

    phil5556
    Full Member

    Monarch Debonair RT I think.

    tillydog
    Free Member

    Have a word with Phil at Indie Cycle works. He will know the problems & how to get around them:

    https://www.facebook.com/indicycleworks/

    (Just up the road from me & Knows His Stuff.)

    a11y
    Full Member

    Thread’s a few years old but is also a T130 owner having issues:

    https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/most-durable-rear-shocks-216-x-63/

    I found that while figuring out what to do with the shock on my Geometron, also a 216×63. I ended up going for a Cane Creek DB Coil IL on the advice of TF Tuned – unlike most other shocks its got a steel shaft (rather than alu) so durability should be better. Obviously only useful if you’d be happy with a coil shock. I’m very impressed with mine so far.

    Edit – it’s actually @mjsmke’s tjhread who’s just posted below…

    mjsmke
    Full Member

    I had this on my 2015 T130. The standard shock bushings were so tight, there was no lateral movement at all. Replaced the shock with a Cane Creek DB air and fit cheap plastic bushings which did alow the shock to flex a little laterally. 4 years later, the shocks still fine.

    binman
    Full Member

    I stuck a Monarch plus on mine 4 years ago and it was fine when last serviced. But, I do keep on top of the pivot bearings.

    nwgiles
    Free Member

    that worked, thanks.
    I have a T130, I will have to take mine apart and recheck mine….

    dirkpitt74
    Full Member

    @phil5556 I have a Marzocchi Bomber coil in that size if you’re interested?

    phil5556
    Full Member

    Cheers, a common issue it seems.

    A rose joined one seems like an option (assuming can find one) or some shimming. Or lay the frame on its side and jump on the rear triangle 🤣

    At this stage I don’t fancy spending out £400 if I’m just going to kill anything I put on it.

    Not sure the Bomber coil would fit.

    I’ll wait for Whyte to reply.

    phil5556
    Full Member

    @mjsmke interesting about the bushes, did you use this type from your thread?

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/323091014735

    phil5556
    Full Member

    So it’s got a cane creek in it just to look at the alignment…

    binman
    Full Member

    Have you had the pivot bearings checked ? Any play ? Are they seated properly?

    That alignment has to be sorted out first 🙁

    phil5556
    Full Member

    Yeah bearings are all good. The first time it killed a shock it was on original bearings and the shop checked them all over – no issues. (It had new chainstays shortly before then for another issue, I’m not sure if they replaced or swapped any bearings over).

    The bearings have been replaced since then, probably about a year after the first shock was swapped.

    No rattles or play at all at the moment.

    mjsmke
    Full Member

    @mjsmke interesting about the bushes, did you use this type from your thread?

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/323091014735

    Yes. With those, the shock could be rotated side to side, but with no play. I filed the first ones down a bit to allow more movement. They’re plastic/nylon I think so soft and cheap. I’d never use metal bushings again.

    oikeith
    Full Member

    My buddy had a T130 for a year or so and it killed itself one day with the shock going from being parallel with the toptube to the rear of the shock dropping and the shock being paralell with the downtube instead and the rear wheel then went around the seat tube a good couple of inches almost like a folding brompton.

    This was a couple of years ago and I dont think this issue was well known, he was not well looked after by Whyte or the LBS IMO…

    weeksy
    Full Member

    I’ve had 3 T-130s, a mate also had one. His shock died 5 years from purchase, mine were all OK.

    He bought an RC3+ from Germany…. but then it was stolen.

    I’m 99% sure the Coil won’t fit it due to clearance issues.

    andybrad
    Full Member

    checking over the bearings in a shop probably wont look at an alignment issue like that.

    RickDraper
    Full Member

    The main issue on these is the lack of any real bracing on the seat stays. The whole rear triangle flexes a lot and this all gets transmitted to the shock. The small little rocker link isn’t adequate to prevent it all flexing.

    Try loosening the rear wheel and see if the shock alignment becomes better.

    squirrelking
    Free Member

    @phil5556 OT but is that Chris you’ve sent it to?

    singlespeedstu
    Full Member

    Try loosening the rear wheel and see if the shock alignment becomes better.

    I’d try this and also loosen all the pivot bolts off and see if you can re align it as you tighten everything back up.
    Something is majorly out of line for the shock to be that far out.
    Anything you refit to that without sorting the alignment will get killed PDQ.

    Does the centre of the rear wheel line up with the centre of the seat tube when the shock is removed and the bike compressed?

    phil5556
    Full Member

    Try loosening the rear wheel and see if the shock alignment becomes better.

    Will do but… I can’t ride it like that so what does it show?

    @phil5556 OT but is that Chris you’ve sent it to?


    @squirrelking
    Yep. Is there a location showing on the photo? I thought I’d hidden it. Or do you recognise his feet in the video?

    I’d try this and also loosen all the pivot bolts off and see if you can re align it as you tighten everything back up.
    Something is majorly out of line for the shock to be that far out.
    Anything you refit to that without sorting the alignment will get killed PDQ.

    Does the centre of the rear wheel line up with the centre of the seat tube when the shock is removed and the bike compressed?

    Don’t know, will give this all a try soon.

    chakaping
    Free Member

    It’s 216 x 63 which appears to be an uncommon size

    Very common pre-metric size, lots of used bargains about. Generous amount of stroke for a 130mm bike though, I have that size on a 170mm frame.

    Alignment issue looks horrendous, on the face of it. Have you sought advice from Whyte at all?

    squirrelking
    Free Member

    @squirrelking Yep. Is there a location showing on the photo? I thought I’d hidden it. Or do you recognise his feet in the video?

    No, just figured there can’t be many folk doing servicing out their shed and he’s in the area. Keep forgetting he does shocks despite the name 🙄

    phil5556
    Full Member

    Yeah it’s pretty useful having him just around the corner 🙂 I use him quite a lot now.

    cogglepin
    Full Member

    Sorry to hijack the thread  but what other shocks would people recommend instead of the monarch?

    Ive a T130 and having read about this issue before I wanted to be prepared in case I need to replace it.

    phil5556
    Full Member

    My Wife has a Monarch Plus RC3 Debonair which seems to have done better than mine.

    Which may be because her frame is good or because it’s a better shock 🤷

    chestercopperpot
    Free Member

    Anything other than a Monarch. They are probably the worst shocks for tolerating sideloading and one of the most unreliable basic monoshocks from the big brands.

    Looking at the misalignment, not much is going to handle that in the long run. I’m always a bit wary of those shuttle link type bikes, if the stays aren’t cross braced or the shuttle/linkage isn’t a beefy forged piece.

    Can the misalignment be easily sorted, a rear triangle assembly error/missing spacer for example?

    phil5556
    Full Member

    Have a word with Phil at Indie Cycle works. He will know the problems & how to get around them:

    https://www.facebook.com/indicycleworks/

    (Just up the road from me & Knows His Stuff.)

    Just spotted this. Do you mean he’s sorted this specifically on a T130? I’ll drop him a message.

    fossy
    Full Member

    That isn’t right. I have a cheap Boardman FS Pro 2016 (silver) and each time I strip it down, pivot and bearings, it is all 100% aligned, nothing moves off as I remove a pivot, shock, or bearing to re-grease it. If anything, it’s too good as it’s hard work geting a few of the ‘washers’ back in.

    fossy
    Full Member

    Got to ask, as an old fart, are you getting dust and shit with it, i.e., introducing loads of side load ?

    My son **** his car with track days all the time.. broked again.

    If you are getting air/jumping etc, you’ve got to be on the maintenance. Skids mean fixing…

    fossy
    Full Member

    OP the frame is bent !

    tillydog
    Free Member

    Just spotted this. Do you mean he’s sorted this specifically on a T130? I’ll drop him a message.

    He will undoubtedly have seen something similar, but your mis-alignment photos came after my message – I think you’re found your problem now.

    phil5556
    Full Member

    OP the frame is bent !

    Yup. Thing is I’m not convinced I bent it. And if I did it was at least 2.5yrs ago.

    Got to ask, as an old fart, are you getting dust and shit with it, i.e., introducing loads of side load ?

    My son **** his car with track days all the time.. broked again.

    If you are getting air/jumping etc, you’ve got to be on the maintenance. Skids mean fixing…

    I don’t think I do anything I shouldn’t to it, I can’t really jump, I’m not that heavy and I don’t crash much. All within the design limits of the bike I think.

    And it is looked after 🙂

    He will undoubtedly have seen something similar, but your mis-alignment photos came after my message – I think you’re found your problem now.

    Ah I see cheers. I was hoping you were going to say he’s a Whyte straightening god.

    oldnick
    Full Member

    My S120C has a trunnion shock to guarantee all side loads are faithfully transmitted to the shock.

    It would cost pennies to fit plastic rose joints but no, let’s bolt it in with even less tolerance.

    [ Googles sloppy bushes, gets surprise ]

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 58 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

Thanks for popping by - why not stay a while?IT'S FREE

Sign up as a Singletrack Member and you can leave comments on stories, use the classified ads, and post in our forums, do quizzes and more.

Join us, join in, it’s free, and fun.