Viewing 29 posts - 1 through 29 (of 29 total)
  • Why 'cup and cone' hubs only?
  • wwaswas
    Full Member

    details

    the quadbrakes site doesn't mention this restriction.

    I wanted to use it with some PRO 2's.

    Three_Fish
    Free Member

    I would have to presume that the adaptor replaces one or more of the (fairly generic) spacers/locking nuts on the axle assembly. Such things aren't (typically) found on hubs with cartridge bearings.

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Yeah you'll need to lose a lot of spacer(s)

    Is this meant for track ends? If so the piece on the RHS will do nothing to stop the hub moving under braking.

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    james
    Free Member

    I thought those things were meant for vertical geared dropout frames with no IS disc mounts, not track ends

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Not this one I don't think.

    Bez
    Full Member

    I would have to presume that the adaptor replaces one or more of the (fairly generic) spacers/locking nuts on the axle assembly.

    That's what I first thought, but it's designed to fit with the flanges outside the dropouts rather than inside, so no need to adjust the spacing. the only think I can think of is a bit of H&S safety margin kicking in – C&C hubs tend to have slightly longer axles; although there shouldn't be a problem with using a standard QR and axle on this: the difference between a steel and an aluminium dropout is easily as significant.

    If so the piece on the RHS will do nothing to stop the hub moving under braking.

    Well, no – it's a tug, for tensioning the chain and stopping it moving under pedalling load.

    I'm struggling slightly with figuring out the adjuster on the brake plate, though…

    wwaswas
    Full Member

    I think it presses on the seat stay Bez to stop the plate rotating when you have it adjusted right for your rotor/caliper.

    Rutland cycling are doing them for £15 posted on ebay so I've ordered one for a bit of a fiddle. If it is c&c only I'll have an excuse to build a new wheel 🙂

    clubber
    Free Member

    Possibly to do with side loading cartridge bearings which don't have a thread to stop any compression loading from the QR (which presumably would need to be done up pretty tight for this to work)? Can't think of any other reason

    Bez
    Full Member

    I think it presses on the seat stay Bez to stop the plate rotating when you have it adjusted right for your rotor/caliper.

    Yeah – I kind of assumed it was intended to push on either the seat or chain stay, but (a) I'd be a bit concerned about the small contact area on the tube and (b) I can't quite picture the arrangement of stays, plate and caliper where that adjuster isn't just in the way of something. And (c) for that purpose, the screw seems to be fitted the wrong way round.

    I'm clearly missing something but I want a photo of it fitted 🙂

    wwaswas
    Full Member

    I'll post somethign up.

    The other alternatives seem to be either

    a) gettign a new dropout welded on
    b) gettign one of those adapters that attacches to the v-brake boss
    c) getting a new frame.

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    but it's designed to fit with the flanges outside the dropouts rather than inside

    Eh? I can't see that at all – surely it goes inside the dropouts.

    cartridge bearings which don't have a thread to stop any compression loading from the QR

    there are shoulders on the axle behind the bearings*, so tightening the QR is fine (in fact has less effect than on cuop and cone hubs).

    *mostly – Cannondale released a cartridge-bearing-front hub in 1990 that had no axle!

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Bez – it looks like you turn the threaded part of the "support" and lock it inplace with th enut – i.e. no head to "turn.

    Looks like it would work fine to me, and I was about to get a mount welded to my tourer…

    Bez
    Full Member

    Eh? I can't see that at all – surely it goes inside the dropouts.

    And I can't see that at all 🙂

    Those knurled sections are inset, which means you'd rely on the locknuts being smaller than they normally are rather than relying on the QRs which are normally constrained anyway; you'd have the logo upside-down and pointing at the hub; you'd rely on the hub coming with spacers wither side that were the exact thickness of the inserts – all of which is design madness when they'll fit fine on the outside with no modifications to any other components – and for the life of me I can't see how you'd attach the brake with the forces in the right direction and make it work, though I'll confess I'm struggling slightly at juggling all the components in my mind's eye 🙂

    i.e. no head to "turn.

    That bit at the base is a screw head, no? Otherwise how are you going to turn it?

    Or are you talking about the tug? Cos I meant the adjuster on the caliper plate.

    wwaswas
    Full Member

    found a pic of one fitted;

    edit: actually, I think that's the '120' one which has an integrated chain tug. will keep looking.

    Bez
    Full Member

    I may have to stand corrected then, but looking at that I can't reconcile it with the knurling on the caliper plate at all…

    Is that a chopper frame of some sort?

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Ah OK I was assuming there is a knurl on the other side of the part that fits within the dropout – just like the pic!

    That bit at the base is a screw head, no?

    Looks like a chunk of rubber/plastic padding the frame from the forces.

    In any case if it went outside the dropout Shirley it would be too far from the disc?

    Bez
    Full Member

    Looks like a chunk of rubber/plastic padding the frame from the forces.

    In any case if it went outside the dropout Shirley it would be too far from the disc?

    Yeah, agreed – that second view clears it up. Re the former there's evidently a hex socket in the end of the threaded rod, and in the latter I was working from the still-baffling knurling and assumed there would be spacers and/or some extension/support to the bolt holes on the far side of the plate.

    owenfackrell
    Free Member

    The knurling looks to me to replace the last washer you have on a cup and cone hub and as such grips the frame ahen you tighen the qr/axel.
    I would also hazard a guess that the adjuster on the disc mount has an allen key hole in its end to allow adjustment and you then lock it of once you have it set up.

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    OF – the locknut is way smaller thast that knurl.

    Looks like yo uare right it's a grub-screw tho.

    wwaswas
    Full Member

    I might try and 'spring' the frame a bit so the knurl on the hub grips the plate and the plate then grips the dropout.

    with my 'jey-lite' riding style I'm unlikely to be wrecking anything.

    I said 'knurl', how pleasing 🙂

    hoops
    Full Member

    I've been using one of these on a Dawes Edge one frame for a few years. It works well but is fiddly to set up initially.

    On the back side of the caliper plate is a recessed "Half-Hex" section that is intended to sit around the cup and cone lock-nut.
    Then there is the two knurled surfaces on the plate and tug that lock into each other. The whole lot goes on the inside of the track end (You do have to adjust the spacing on your axle to accommodate the extra width, or stretch the stays apart to fit it in).

    The rubber headed screw braces the whole set-up against the seat-stay when braking.

    owenfackrell
    Free Member

    I think that pic makes it look bigger than it is when compared to the one of it fitted. I may be that they have made it bigger due to higher forces? If so then it may only work on some frames.

    wwaswas
    Full Member

    "On the back side of the caliper plate is a recessed "Half-Hex" section"

    ah, it all becomes clear.

    anyone got an 6 bolt xt hub/wheel they don't want?

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    hoops:-

    Is getting the wheel out a PITA?

    Do you think it would work backwards on horizontal dropouts?

    hoops
    Full Member

    Is getting the wheel out a PITA?

    It's not difficult to get it out, but it can be a PITA to put it all back together on a dark cold muddy night if you needed to fix a flat.

    I'm not sure you could get it to work on a horizontal drop out – because of the need to use the chain tug piece.

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    I was thinking it could go in backwards. But I think I'll just get a mount brazed on.

    Bez
    Full Member

    Ah – the tug goes on the disc side and the knurl is for that. Doh! One Bez now fully disconfusated. Alles klar!

    mamadirt
    Free Member

    Yep, fits inside the dropouts and you need cup and cone hubs because there is a cut out on the other side of the mount (which you can't see in your pic), as Hoops says, which sits over the cone nut to prevent movement.

    Used it on my Inbred for a while – although there was visible play in the mount when applying the brake, it did the job just fine. There are a few more pics of it fitted here. The only issue which concerned me was that as it was effectively taking up more space between the dropoputs, the axle didn't extend very far into the dropout slot (in fact it was barely supported) as you can see here . . .

    I did try fitting a narrower cone nut to allow a little more space but this just threw things out of alignment. In the end I ran it as it was and had no problems – had I kept that set up though I would've considered swapping the q/r axle for a longer solid bolt-up one for peace of mind.

    wwaswas
    Full Member

    cool, thanks mamadirt.

    I've been considering filing down the spacer on my hopes to fit…

Viewing 29 posts - 1 through 29 (of 29 total)

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