- Who was it struggling to cut seized cranks off?
should not have been a need to chop the cranks…placing a big flat screwdriver behind the crank and then whacking it with a big f-off hammer should get it off…assuming the axle is a square taperPosted 3 years ago
as for the fork…to me it doesnt look like it will come off until you unscrew the lockring on top of the headset cup as that is whats holding the fork to the frame…i’m assuming its a threaded fork steererthisisnotaspoonSubscriber
I had one stuck recently, eventually gave up and took the hammer/drift to the BB cup and got it to rotate enough that it was loose and unscrewed the whole lot from the frame.
Already regretting the choice of square taper for their replacement, horrible system, it was probably fine in the days of adjustable BB’s which needed greasing every thousand miles, but once shimano came along with UN-xx BB’s that lasted 5000miles they had plenty of time to sieze.
Only tip I found that worked (without destroying eveything) was to go for a ride with the bolts removed, stop and do them up again as soon as it starts to knock and hope you’ve broken the bond without mullering the crank tapers.Posted 3 years ago
Gonzy, a screwdriver behind the cranks and a hammer. 😆
You’ve obviously not experienced properly seized cranks before. These took ten minutes with a lump hammer even once the taper was 1/4 exposed.
If the stem is rusted to the steerer I assure you undoing the top headset nut will achieve the grand sum of sod all. It’s ok, I know what I’m doing…
Sentimental value? Not really, it’s a £7 eBay cannondale M500, I’ve got half a plan to cobble a commuter together, but mainly I don’t like being beaten. 😈
The bottom bracket was exactly as awful as you’d imagine but I got it out in one piece, not sure how you’d even go about getting that out without ruining the frame of it was completely seized.Posted 3 years ago
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