Or better still just tell me which one’s work best. I’ve been chopping up old inner tubes but after a while the rubber splits and separates from the metal.

Tried googling for it but no luck

Milkit, apparently. I’ve not used them

I’m far from experienced in the world of tubeless, but having failed to properly set up with some valves bought off here (no idea what make), which leaked no matter what I did with them, I bought some Stan’s valves which work perfectly on Stan’s rims (which is good … would have been disappointed if they hadn’t!)

Will follow this thread with interest, as I’ve got some Vision wheels to set up tubeless on the Gravel bike …

I’ve used Stans for every tubeless wheel I’ve converted, which must be about 12 at least. Never once had any problems, so they get my business for the £12 or so it costs for two.

Just done some 60mm deep rims with some of crc 75mm lifeline valves and they don’t seem too bad for £7.99(for 2) really long ones are normally a tad mentally priced.

I’ve heard good things about the Superstar ones too, but they’ve sold out unforts

Stan’s and DT Swiss have been fine for me.

I suspect it’s possible to overthink this one.

I’ve used bits of old inner tube, Stan’s, Superstar, RSP and some no name ones. All have kept the air in my tyres…

The MilKit valves will prevent sealant from shooting up the pump and also prevent the tyre from deflating after just being seated, so It think they are worth it. I will buy a few to replace the ones I’ve been using for ages – Stan’s.

As above. Nothing wrong with the lifeline ones. I have them on 5 deep wheelsets and three MTB.

They all work for me (except the ones too short for my chunky carbon rims) Cheap and colourful I’d go Uberbike.

For ultimate luxury go Milkit.  Being able to check and top up sealant without popping a bead off (which can lift the tape on some setups) or suck all the sealant out before swapping tyres is BRILLIANT….but expensive.

https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/best-tubeless-valves/

Think I’ll order some lifeline ones

I just bought the cheapest ones off eBay that came with blue ano valve caps. Tyres went up first Time and have stayed  airtight.

Stans or dt swiss both work well. I had stans valve work its way through the valve hole probanly because it was slightly too big. Thats my only failure. Dt ones have a slightly wider base to stop this.

However i recently drilled out my rims for schrader tubeless valves and tbese are an order of magnitide better. Consider doing this if you have wide alu rims. I really want to do it on my carbon enve’s but daren’t risk it

Why are they so much better?

Thanks for the link Drac! 🙂

Just fitted these: http://Look what I found on AliExpress http://s.aliexpress.com/BNZ7NjI7

£7.26 for 2. Red, so infinitely faster….

Why are they so much better?

The valve core is out of the way inside so it doesn’t bend, snap, unscrew with the pump.  Slightly wider so you can get more air flow through it which is good for tubeless. Really we only have presta because of the fashion for narrow rims…now that’s changed im getting rid.

The e13 ones are meant to be good, but at £26 a pair I’ll never find out!

The e13 ones are meant to be good, but at £26 a pair I’ll never find out!

That pretty much sums up all of e13’s stuff doesn’t it?! 🙂

Anything with a conical rubber bung. Red superstar to remove nd me they are tubeless. HED for 100 mm deep valves. Stans have been fine. Not had to worry about milkit and reseating.

I have the e13 ones (came with the bike) and they are good, not gunked up anything like as much as my old DT Swiss ones.

Anything with a conical rubber bung.

Not sure that is always the best choice. I’m really struggling with a set of WTB frequency I19s on my commuter. They persistently leak around the valve and given I have now re-taped the front wheel fives times and its still leaking I’ve come to the conclusion that conical bungs don’t fit the ‘on-ramp’ in these rims. The rear holds air well enough that I can ride it but anything above 30psi leaks around the valve until under that amount (front will not hold air)!

Dunno if it’s already been said, but the best valve usually depends on the rim.

I’ve had my Mavic Ksyriums tubeless for over 2 years and just changed tyres – now one of them won’t stay inflated – can feel the air leaking around the valve. Got all sorts of valves in my spares, Caffelatex ones have always worked well, but no matter what I tried it still leaked. It’s a UST rim so doesn’t (shouldn’t) need tape. I’ve now tried electrical tape (probably not waterproof enough?) round the rim and used some Sugru to close the valve hole up a bit. Inflated last night without sealant and it seemed to be working. Was flat this morning though. Will try sealant today. Fingers crossed!

Tubeless is so great when it works, but such a ridiculous faff when it doesn’t!

I’ve got an old valve stem with a flat base and an o-ring in the spares box. Way too wide in that configuration to fit the channel but going to attempt with a lump of sugru in place of the o-ring.

I’ve also noticed some stems are threaded all the way while others has a short unthreaded section. Seems more scope for leakage on the threaded version.

I’ve had my Mavic Ksyriums tubeless for over 2 years

It’s a UST rim

Mavic haven’t made UST road rims for that long (they only introduced them last year). Just because the rim bed is sealed doesn’t make it a tubeless rim.

I’ve got 3 sets of DT Swiss wheels each have DT Swiss valves and they’re ace. My Stans wheels have Superstar valves, not a single issue to report there and my Mavic ones have Mr Tubeless ones, again not an issue.

Mavic haven’t made UST road rims for that long (they only introduced them last year). Just because the rim bed is sealed doesn’t make it a tubeless rim.

Yeah, it’s weird, I emailed Mavic and said they were a 2016 model, as I bought them in 2015. They said the same, that 2016 wheels weren’t tubeless… But! They came with sealant and valves… so I checked my order  – and though they were bought in 2015, they are the 2017 model… so there ya go. Would’ve been quite difficult to run them tubeless for over 2 years if they hadn’t been tubeless really eh.

I’m really struggling with a set of WTB frequency I19s on my commuter. They persistently leak around the valve and given I have now re-taped the front wheel fives times and its still leaking I’ve come to the conclusion that conical bungs don’t fit the ‘on-ramp’ in these rims. The rear holds air well enough that I can ride it but anything above 30psi leaks around the valve until under that amount (front will not hold air)!

That air may not be coming from the valve seat. I had similar and the there was a hole in the tape away from the valve – air was leaking into the area between the tape and the rim and was just using the valve hole as an escape route.

I had similar and the there was a hole in the tape away from the valve

Yeah I’ve had that before as well. Pretty sure that is no longer the case. Have retaped with rim tape, clear gorilla tape and finally black gorilla tape. If you include the rear wheel I taped two wheels seven times and both still have the issue. There is also loads of movement in the valve stem which there shouldn’t be (despite being done up tight and having ruined one stem using pliers on it to get really, really tight).

Still haven’t managed to get the Ksyrium rear wheel to stop leaking round the valve. Spent another £20 on different valves now. It’s infuriating! 2+ years without issue, now I change to Spesh tyres and it won’t stay inflated. The front wheel is fine! Have I damaged the rim in some way that would reveal itself in leaking round the valve?

Luckily, I have a set of Allroads, so am running that back wheel at the mo, but I need to get this sorted. Open to ideas (including get a new rim on it!)

Is the valve hole pristine, or has it started to corrode – as untaped aluminium beds sometimes do?

DezB is there possibly a small leak where the rim is joined? It would still seem like it’s coming from the valve. Your options might be to install some proper-width tubeless tape – i.e. 5mm wider than the internal rim width. That means the air can’t reach the join.

is there possibly a small leak where the rim is joined?

Definitely a possibility.. hard to check though. I’ve tried electrical tape, but will try a better solution.

Is the valve hole pristine, or has it started to corrode

It’s not corroded, but the paint around it is a bit chipped – I’ve tried Sugru around the hole, but this didn’t help (I maybe could’ve done a better job of this!)