Wow, when race face cinch cranks go wrong, they really go wrong.
I was just thinking the other day how much I like the solution compared to HTII or suchlike. The direct mount chainring is awesome (and easy), love the simplicity of tightening the bolt on the drive side, then finger tightening the bearing pre-load on the NDS. Great system.
However – last couple of rides noticed a horrendous creak, and on getting home realised that the drive side bolt was working loose and the crank was v wobbly – oops! Read a bit about the 50nm pressure needed, I’ve no torque wrench that goes up that high, so now seated ‘good and proper’.
This mornings big ride up a big hill with a loooovely extended single track descent was somewhat buggered by the continuing horrendous creaking being the NDS crank also working loose. noticed about 1/2 way down as that side was this time feeling ‘wobbly’. Does anyone carry a 15mm Allen key needed to reattach it on a. regular ride?
I got the bolt ‘finger tight’, rode gingerly down, then dropped into decathlon at the bottom of the hill (nearest bike shop, second option was a car repair place) to see if they had a 15mm Allen key (I don’t even have one in the tool box at home) and maybe even a torque wrench.
They had both, were super helpful, no charge, and things are creak free and reattached again.
Learns?
1) 50nm is an incredible amount of force, I’ve never down anything that tight before!
2) I need a 15mm Allen key
3) Once things start to go wrong, one really should check all the elements of potential knock on failure
4) I should have done that drive side bolt up correctly in the first place
Hope the cranks aren’t buggered, heading for PPdS and a week in the alps next Thursday. the would be bad timing.