I guess maybe the way I build wheels is different to that guide (everyone seems to have a different way) – in the rare case where I have a rim with offset drilling and a hub with single-sided countersinks which don’t match, I just build an asymmetric wheel.

Or, more accurately, I follow my usual method of lacing a wheel and it turns out asymmetric by itself 😉

Well, I’m going to pull apart a pair of wheels I built for myself when I was learning (self taught) because since I’ve been trained I realise I’ve built them both symmetrical when one should be asymmetric and the other reverse symmetrical. I’d rather commit suicide than build a wheel incorrectly these days…… 😉

Thanks for that, adamef – nice to have a good justification that what I’ve now started doing is the best thing to do 😉 Am part way through attaching nipples to spokes with spokes going to eyelets on the right side, but with the valve hole in the “wrong” place – which was what I was intending on all along until I had this brain-wave.

in the rare case where I have a rim with offset drilling and a hub with single-sided countersinks which don’t match, I just build an asymmetric wheel.

Which is what it suggests in that guide. If it wasn’t a uni wheel I’d do the same – in the case of a uni I think there’s enough justification for having a symmetric wheel that it becomes more important than having a perfect gap around the valve.

You could just drill another valve hole 😀

Now that’s the sort of lateral thinking I like. Could even make it Presta sized rather than too big. Do you think if I drilled another 34* I’d get up the hills a lot quicker?

*obviously drilling one at the rim joint would be a bad idea

surely if the valve is in the wrong place you are just lacing it wrong [ assuming you want it in the right place] so lace it properly. Your lacing pattern is wrong basically
Obviously flipping the rim will solve this – well if you then start in the right place afterwards 😉

nope go with the gorilla engineering from ben ignore me

If you want extra speed uphill, have you thought of Sheldon Brown’s POWerwheel lacing pattern?

http://sheldonbrown.com/power-wheel.html

I’d be paranoid about anything other than perfect lacing of the wheel, so as to avoid the flange snapping at the spoke hole that at some people have had on schlumpfs.

Oh ****. It was all laced correctly, with just the valve hole in the “wrong” position, and one of the flanges just went at the spoke hole when applying final tension. Not even one where it had previously been laced wrong from the looks of things – just me going overboard with spoke tension. ****!

Have you flipped the wheel yet?

Do you think that will help with the broken flange? 😥

For reference a replacement for this hub is more expensive than pretty much any hub anybody else on here is using – more expensive than a Rohloff!