What size chainring on your 1×10 or 1×11 29er?
32T with an 11-36 cassette, have to say I found it proper hard work to begin with but its getting easier. Big days in the lakes and the peaks are just painful though. I’ve ordered one of those absolute black cassette pieces now though so hopefully help the big days out.Posted 3 years ago
I am curious as to what setups people are running on their 1xN 29ers…Posted 3 years ago
A 30 tooth seems a bit too big to me with a 11-36 or similar cassette, so if you want to go smaller than this the question is what cranks do you use?
Do you go with something like a Shimano double crank and just run a 64BCD chainring in the inner position? If so this seems like a bit of a compromise since chainline will not be ideal and also the unused outer chainring mounting points are a bit of an eyesore.
Are there any other crank options that fit the bill in the “good value” section of the market? (i.e. not XX1 etc)rollsroyceMember
28 11-36 here. I suffered for ages riding around the lakes with a 32 thinking it was just me being unfit. Then my mate had a ride of my bike on a fairly flat trail and got off after a mile saying how the &£@k did I manage to pedal it up hills. Went to the 28 soon after. Much better for climbing but I do pedal out on the descents. Thinking a 30 and 11-40 would be spot on in the lakes.Posted 3 years ago
You’ve got 15 opinions, covering twiddly to massive, what more are you hoping to get?
At the end of the day it’s very personal and there’s no right answer. If you want to go smaller than a 30t then consider XX1 cranks, they’re not actually that expensive – £165 on Starbike at the moment, or go direct mount, which saves weight and potentially cost if you have compatible cranks.Posted 3 years agoclubberMember
34 with 11-36.
I’m really unfit at the moment too and I find that’s ok – I am a spinner but can churn bigger gears when necessary. I recently got a new chainring and did consider a 32 but given that I’ve not really found that I needed a lower gear, stuck with the 34.Posted 3 years agoYetimanMember
30t XX1 cranks with an 11-36 cassette and 40t Hope T-Rex. Plenty of big hills around here so I like having a lower spread of gears. In fact, I don’t think I’ve even been in the 11t cog yet and I went 1×10 last July.Posted 3 years ago
I’ve also just picked up a 28t ring as a spare which might get some use on the bigger mountain rides.
What do you mean by “direct mount” ?
XX1 cranks seem pretty expensive to me…
It’s all relative – XX1 cranks are not the expensive part of the group – they’re 1/2 the price of XTR. Not cheap per se.
You can use the newest X.7 chainset, CRC have one with cosmetic damage for £80, flog the rings and buy a Direct Mount one and you can go to 26t.
carbon ti ring ftw I think, twice the price but I bet they last twice as long
I had a ti (not Carbon-Ti) chainring on my last bike, did last very well indeed I must say. Mine was from Experimental Prototype, if they did narrow/wide I’d consider one.Posted 3 years agowobbliscottMember
I’ve got 28T Wolftooth direct mount on an X9 crank with an 11-36 block. Works great and give a low enough gear to tackle anything the UK can throw. I believe 28T up front on a 29er is roughly equivalent to a 31T on a 26″ bike. You do run out of the high gears on fast smooth descents, but I just tend to coast those anyway. You could get round this lack of high gears by going 30 or 32T up front with a T-Rex 40T on the back for a granny gear, but there is no point unless you really want that high gear.Posted 3 years agotk46halMember
Reading all of the above I have learnt something new tonight!Posted 3 years ago
I run a 36t with a 36-11 cassette on my 29er rigid and manage ok on most of the steep Yorkshire climbs but towards the end of the rides I wish I was riding a bike with a Granny gear until reading about these 40t and 42t expansion cogs! So, I think I understand what you do with them but which size do I get and will the rear mech/chain need some modification to handle the larger rear cog?
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