Looking something lightweight possibly under 1400g

Suggestions?

Hope Pro 3/Crests. Unless you are heavy.

Njee20 to the forum please…

26″?

Depending on budget I’d get these, which are a bargain, or get some A2Z hubs, Podium MMX rims and Revolution spokes, mine are 1246g including yellow tape and valves.

You can do far better than Hope if you’re chasing light weight.

Edit: sorry TSC, was a minute late!

Stans rims on the lightest hubs you can afford.

Ive got a set of Hope Pro 3/DT 4.2D’s im selling, weight in at about 1600g, looking for £150, Drop me a message to rossphelps@gmail.com if your interested?

Not heavy,hovering around the 10 stone mark.

Bargain at 799eur but bit pricy for me…..

MMX and a2z you mention, how much roughly and where to get?

If weight is your main/only concern the Enve carbon rims with DT aerolites on Tune Princess and Dezibel hubs, should be able to get under a kilo.
If durability is main concern with weight secondary then Stans Alpine with DT aerolites on Chris Blings (still only 1,400g-ish) cheaper with revs instead of aerolites, 64 aerolites would be about £250!
If price is added to the euation njees A2Z,MMX, Revs combo is good vfm and pretty light.

I’ve been very pleased with my Stans Alpine rims on Superleggera Titanium Hubs, they cost approx £400 (cx-ray spokes) and are still in great condition after 2 years. They are approx 1350gms

American Classic tubeless are around 1400g I think…

If weight is your main/only concern the Enve carbon rims with DT aerolites on Tune Princess and Dezibel hubs, should be able to get under a kilo.

Only if you go for the tub rims, which are 260g, at which point you may as well go for Innolite, who do a 230g tub rim, and you may as well use Pillar spokes, and Extralite SPD hubs, certainly on the front, as no one has a production Dezibel yet it’s a moot point, but yes, sub 1000g is doable. Someone on WW did 957g (IIRC) with Innolite XCC250 clinchers.

MMX and a2z you mention, how much roughly and where to get?

Hubs: £120 from any LBS with a Windwave account
Rims: £180 (ish) from CRC etc
Spokes: £40 from Actionsports.de
Build: £60 (say, LBS or builder of your choice)

You’ll need nips too, if you’re not fussed by colours your LBS probably has loads of alu ones – all black DT spokes used to include a box, I know we had literally thousands in stock!

American Classics race wheels 1361g

AC Hubs, MMX Podium rims – remarkedly tough, I’ve tried my best to destroy them and haven’t managed it yet.

Rode for a week missing a rear spoke and wheel was fine.

My Steed, Scott Spark RC by brf, on Flickr

A2Z/Podiums/Revs here too, great wheels for two years racing/training.

however..the time has come for new pawls/springs & it does not appear to be a servicable option ie can’t get hold of pawls/springs. So it looks like a new pair of hubs:(

We can throw these into the mix.

Genuine weight and we do include valves, tape and solution. We have a stock pair with QR/QR, there will be options for 15mm front and 142×12 rear in due course.

however..the time has come for new pawls/springs & it does not appear to be a servicable option ie can’t get hold of pawls/springs. So it looks like a new pair of hubs:(

I’m sure something will work. A lot of the parts are interchangeable with American Classic, I don’t know about the pawls, but they could well be. Alternatively they’re marketed as several other brands – Rotaz etc, may be a bit more digging required before you buy new hubs.

however..the time has come for new pawls/springs & it does not appear to be a servicable option ie can’t get hold of pawls/springs. So it looks like a new pair of hubs:(

Maybe the lightest weight possible isn’t the be all and end all. There’s a certain Lancastrian company who make hubs that you could get pawls and springs from in a day or two 😉

You could get a spare rear hub and they’re still cheaper though, whilst also being lighter 😉

Cheap… Light… strong after all!

My experience of American Classic wheels is – very light, very difficult to make a tyre pop on (now settled on Spesh Renegades) and the alloy nipples creak like a b@st@rd. Altogether a pain in the @rse and that’s after the importers sent the wrong wheels twice :s

Stans Alpine or Podium
American Classic or A2Z
Revs or CX-Ray
Alu nips

Mix and match as your weight/ riding style and pockets allow 😀

I have second hand AC hubs/ Podium rims / Revs at 1230g all in, and Hope Pro II/ Alpine/ CX-Ray at 1470g. The Alpine rims and CX-Ray combo feels a little stiffer as you might expect but the Hope hubs have got through bearings like nobody’s business

As a CX-Ray is just a flattened Laser I’d not expect it to be any stiffer. Not worth the money IMO, and I’ve had several sets.

I have some Olympic rims on DT 240 hubs with Revolution (I think) spokes and very light and fairly tough. Now replaced by Alpine rims that I expect are even better. Seriously light and strong and reliable after 3 years.

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/WPFRMURXCT/frm_urano_xc_team_wheelset

What bout those?

Blazin-saddles – Member

There’s a certain Lancastrian company who make hubs that you could get break pawls and springs from in a day or two

FTFY 😉

Avoid FRM.

+1 on avoiding FRM.

Northwind, Play nicey!

Lost count of how many Hope hubs I’ve had over the last 15 years but NEVER broken a pawl or spring, anyway, this is somewhat changing the subject.

njee, not for myself, but for a friend who races… Why avoid FRM?

I’ve no experience of them, those rims appear to be the BOR rims that everyone raves about.

So what’s wrong with them?

Anything with an FRM logo I’ve seen has been, at best, over priced tat and at worst downright dangerous! Not a brand I’d rush to use, along with Tune.

Blazin-saddles – Member

Northwind, Play nicey!

Only gently poking fun- they’ve sent me a couple of sets on warranty without any fuss so I can’t complain too much but the springs have been disposable for me, I’ve had to replace at least 5 out of my 2 sets of pro 2s (and 2 axles, though that’s not likely to be an issue on an XC bike)

Flipside is they’re dead easy to fix when they misbehave- my DT240s are much better hubs but sooner or later I’m going to want to change that central bearing on one of them and then things get hassly.

I’m running dt240s hubs with stans alpine and supercomp spokes with brass nipples. Including the rim tape and valve they weighed 1460g the pair. They’re the best wheels I’ve owned and get used for everything.

The alpine rim is almost as wide as the crest but a bit deeper and much better looking.

These look a bargain… http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mobile/MobileModels.aspx?ModelID=92078

Nothwind, I know, it’s odd how some peoples kit lasts forever and others seems to play up consistently, Hope and every other manufacturers equally.

I’ve been running some prototype half weight pawl springs in mine all year and their totally fine too. I used to run DT240 hubs on another bike and that went through freehub body bearings like they were going out of fashion!

Wouldn’t touch Stan’s with a barge, not up to the job. DT do two very light rims. The XR 300 in carbon (who basicaly got their badge of honnor at the TV when they manage to survived while being on a top ten bike)or if you can’t afford carbon the XR 350 with very low profile. As they said aerolite is by far the best spoke you can buy (whatever njee thinks) like all DT spoke they are cold forged at the lenght from Scandinavian steel. As for hub hope, DT or if you’re fearless more exotic stuff. It really depends on what you want to do with your wheel. Apparently you want to run tubs on, so maybe Stan’s will be fine, but that will probably mean you won’t be able to ride everywhere.

Never had an issue with Stans or Hope..

Am I some kind of anomaly?! 😕

Podium a2z with revs for me also
I’ve been surprised just how much I can use them
And not silly money either

For those having issues with stans have you stuck to there recomended rider weight and spoke tension

Aerolites are a very good spoke but for me not worth the extra money over rev or super comp

mrlebowski – Member

Never had an issue with Stans or Hope..

Am I some kind of anomaly?!

Juan has some grudge against Stans that causes him to slag them off at every opportunity, if you do a wee search on his history you’ll see not to take it too seriously.

Juan has some grudge against Stans

Nope They are not just up to the job. Out of curiosity I pretend I was interested and went to the evil (meaning the LBS I don’t buy stuff) to get some. I was meant with the same laughter. Stan are no just for mtb.

See what I mean? Know any other manufacturers with 2 downhill world cups under their belt which just aren’t for mtb? 😆

Juan, I’ve asked you before and you’ve never answered- do you have any personal riding experience of any Stans rims? You are one of the good guys I think so I’ve never understood where this comes from.

njee, not for myself, but for a friend who races… Why avoid FRM?

The machining tolerances on their moving parts are not up to scratch. Finishing kit, non-moving parts might be fine. I had a set of their hubs that caused endless problems.

Ignore juan, no idea why he has a grudge against Stans rims. They have served me well for numerous years and offer a brilliant mix of lightweight, durability and tubeless compatibility. I’ve had the original Olympic rims for years, lots of use and no problems. Many more since then, again no issues. The only rims I’ve seen fail have been after big crashes that would have been the end of any wheel.

Nope finishing kit not ok, Gee had a freehub which relied on a grub screw to keep the saddle in place. It never worked.

Nothwind, I know, it’s odd how some peoples kit lasts forever and others seems to play up consistently, Hope and every other manufacturers equally.

Maybe you’re just not as powerful as Northwind Dave 😉

Out of curiosity I pretend I was interested and went to the evil (meaning the LBS I don’t buy stuff) to get some. I was meant with the same laughter. Stan are no just for mtb.

You trolled your LBS? The seconds must fly by. As Northwind said though, I can’t think of too many components that have World Cup wins in DH and XC and aren’t suitable for MTB use!