- What is this damn Creak!!
The joy of silent running – the agony of creaks and clicks!
Hard to diagnose from a video but it could be any one of the following:
loose chain ring bolts
loose suspension bearing bolts (beware torque settings!)
grit on the inside of the seat tube where the seat post is inserted
bottom bracket is loose or needs replacing due to worn bearings
crack in the frame (hopefully you would have noticed this)
or my particular favourite that confounded me for the longest time….
grit in the retention springs on my SPD pedals (solved only by a clean with an old toothbrush followed by a coating of loctite to effectively insulate the springs from dirt ingest).
It may be something else entirely (that’s my disclaimer in case it’s none of the above)Posted 3 months ago
Does it both seated and standing
It’s Eagle GX and cant from what I can there are no chain ring bolts as it’s all one piece?
Pedals are tight – but can try some others to see what happens
Think rear axle is all good but will double check.
Bottom bracket is 18 month old SRAM gxp press fit so could need changing.
Will try one thing at a time!Posted 3 months agofossyMember
BB to start. Check pedals too, also check the pivot bolts on suspension are torqued.
Most likey BB if you’ve not touched it, especially press fit crap. Has a nasty habit of creaking on all sorts of bikes. Also cranks need to be torqued right up – normal threaded GXP on my FS, but the cranks have to be stupidly tight compared to my other bikes.Posted 3 months agonwilkoMember
Chased a creak on my old full suss for ages, suspected suspension bearings, replaced no diff. Shock bushing no difference. Seat rails swapped saddle from hardtail no difference. Get so fed up i just ride hardtail. Swapped the full sus pedals onto another bike and creak. Turned out the axle of the 540s was dry as hell, regreased quiet as a mouse..Posted 3 months agojonweMember
When you’ve worked through all those options check the frame very carefully. I’ve had two frames with hairline cracks near welds that creaked randomly on hills. I’ve also had creaks from bottom brackets (usual problem), seatposts, pedals (cleats and threads), chainring bolts, saddle rails, stem/bar interface and fork/qr interface.Posted 3 months agorOcKeTdOgSubscriber
Usually on a fuel creaks come from a dry or over tightened main pivot bolt. Loosen and lube and retighten to the correct torque (16nm). We do this to all our new ones as invariably they come back after a few weeks with a creak. I think they get overtightened during assembly at the factory in the far East.Posted 3 months agodonksMember
I had a trek Fuel (much older model though) which creaked like a mother and it was only diagnosed when I saw a thread on here about the dodgy swing arm which was prone to hairline cracks….. Quick trip out to the garage and all was confirmed. This was a good few years back now mind and I’ve not heard about this issue since.Posted 3 months agotweekyMember
Remove your saddle.
Lube the saddle rails, clamp and bolts, then re-assemble.
Get a good hold of your frame and back wheel on the rim at 12 o’clock.
Try to move the back wheel, and if you hear creaking, clean and lube the thru axle and make sure it’s clamped up tight enough to the frame.Posted 3 months agojoebristolSubscriber
So many things it could be – try all the free ones first – ie disassembling / cleaning / put back together with grease or loctite (depending on what it is you are putting back on). If none of those then I’d go with the press fit gxp bb as the culprit. That’s about the max length gxp bb’s usually last. Occasionally one lasts longer but quite often 18 months is doing very well.Posted 3 months agopanzerjagerSubscriber
When you stand evenly on the pedals & it creaks, does it do the same if you swap your forward foot?Posted 3 months ago
ie, sit on the saddle, put left foot forward, then stand up & weight the cranks.
Sit back on saddle, right foot forward, then stand again & weight on the cranks.
If it creaks both ways, then my bet would be remove crank arm & clean & grease crank axle interface.
Thats where mine was…
Ok so quick update. BB was changed as was due a new one anyway. Chainring bolts regreased and tightened to torque spec.
Seat post checked, headset checked.
Not taken it for a long ride but I think it might still have a creak!
Going to check all pivot bolts tomorrow and take her for a proper spin.Posted 3 months agoglobaltiMember
If it’s a BB30 the noise is your 30mm axle fretting inside the inner races of the BB bearings. It is not the bearings moving in the alloy frame sleeves as every mechanic will tell you.
Strip the BB and you will see blueing (i.e. black paste) where the axle has been fretting as well as signs of movement and possibly even pitting on the narrow bands inside the bearing race area if it’s gone a long way. Clean it all up and smear bearing fit comopound on the inside of the LH side bearing and on the BB axle at the drive side, so that the compound has the best chance of not being wiped off as you re-insert the axle. Tighten up and ride, marvelling at the silence.Posted 3 months ago
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