- What could go wrong if….. (shock setup content)
That setup was after I got it serviced and asked TFTuned to give me the option of a more efficient “race” setup. The advice on the covering letter was to run it at 200psi and propedal 3, versus my day-to-day setup of 165psi and PP at 1.
However, my propedal is less firm that it was from stock. I’m wondering whether I should (at the next service) ask for it the PP to be made firmer again, or revert to the above setup. One is the flick of a lever the other requires a shock pump.
I’m trying to understand the technical difference between the two and the impact on the frame. What I really want (as an example) is no bob on the Clif Climb, and some efficiency based cushioning on the singletrack, with the option for it to be all playful again socially*.
*Dare I say it, that probably means a DW link race bike. :-/Posted 4 years agono_eyed_deerMember
Oohhh… I dunno..? I’m guessing 80kg sans-kit… That probably gets up to 90 with a full camel, tool kit, helmet, shoes and bananas.
I was hovering between 190psi and 195psi this weekend – trying to find a perfect sweet spot between taut and wippy, and stable and slack. It’s in there somewhere! I *think* 195psi is that spot, but it might be ever-so-slightly too much..
I’m a serial shock pressure-faffer … 😉Posted 4 years ago
Well blimey it worked. Tested in Peaslake yesterday, 180psi (about 20% sag with kit) and PP on 3 and the bike was fast and spritely, giving me the option to knock off the propedal on the downs and climbing much better with it on. Certainly for events I wouldn’t bother turning it off, (I mostly forgot yesterday anyway). Turns out previously my setup was 30% sag with kit 😯 So I think I may have been dragging the back wheel around everywhere.
I’d say I got about 7/10ths travel too which is fine, I never felt like it was not enough.
Right, now for some lighter bits to put on it….Posted 4 years agoEuroMember
After a bit of experimentation im running my rp23 at 220psi. Im around 14.5st. Its really firm for sitty down pedaling and only bobs when im standing and mashing – even then its minor. I generally keep it in the climb setting unless riding dh trails and it feels very responsive. Rebound is 4 clicks from slowest which helped stop the rear getting bucked on bigger jumps (took a bit of painful experimenting).
I dont see how running higher pressures would cause harm to the frame. As said, plenty of big boners riding about.Posted 4 years ago
Ever tried going fast on a spongy bike?
Yes, and I’ve also been fast on a too hard shock, it’s hard work too.. if you’re going to carry all that weight around you might as well use utilise the advantage.
I’d maybe a smidge harder, depending on the course. IME, on my bikes, 10psi either way makes a difference.Posted 4 years ago
If you read my post molgrips you’ll see I went from 165 to 180psi – about 10% increase.
Its hardly locked out the shock. I got to the 180psi by incrementing down from 200psi – which was quite hard – over the last week or so.
The bike didn’t pogo, I just increased the rebound 2 clicks (now at 7 of 9 from 5 of 9) and it was perfectly good at pace down some of Surrey’s best, and very little Bob on the way up. I’m using PP3 which as I explained earlier is more akin to PP1.5 ish before my shock was tuned.Posted 4 years ago
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