What car polish?
As a ‘polish’, I really don’t think you can beat Autoglym Super Resin Polish. It’s great at masking light swirls/scratches and really brings out the colour.
On top of the polish I’d go for Dodo Juice Blue Velvet ‘wax’ if you have a dark colour, or Poorboys EX-P ‘sealant’ if you have a very light/silver colour. Both give great results to their respective colours.Posted 5 years agomau00149Member
Used to use autoglym super resin polish followed by some of their wax to protect it.
Now using bilthamber products, great stuff – i use their auto wash, clay and autobalm as a combination. Great stuff. If the cars paint is in poor condition, i’d still use a polish after the clay prior to the autobalm to restore it’s shineyness.
As mentioned above, well worth claying the car beforehand (the bilthamber clay uses water as a lube and is so easy to use), you’ll be amazed how much grime will come off a “clean” car. No point polishing a dirty surface.Posted 5 years ago
As mentioned above, very little point waxing and polishing if you haven’t prepped the surface properly beforehand.
After washing and drying, 1st step would be clay Bar treatment to remove contamination from the paintwork
Then a decent tar and glue remover below the middle of the doors.
This would make the effect from a good wax far more noticeable
I use a trade version of Farecla Suoer Gloss Paste Wax, superb wax to use, easy on and very easy off. You could leave it for hours and it would still come off easy. And it’s not white so no residue.
The finish is brilliant and It lasts for months too if applied right.
Machine Polishing with a Fast Rotary machine to get rid of swirl marks and minor scratches is also well worth doing, but its not really a DIY and can cause some serious problems if you don’t know what you are doing
But done correctly its like a miracle cure for paintwork that’s been abused by the “Gritty Sponge” £5 hand car wash. 😉Posted 5 years agoWoodySubscriber
Not one to impress the purists but I’ve been using this Mantis stuff for a couple of years now (I’m a sucker for stuff that promises ‘miracles’ and am too lazy to ‘do it properly’ 😉 ) Works very well and goes straight onto a dirty car and seems to last for ages. In fact the guy at the local petrol station commented that my car was always gleaming when I hadn’t cleaned it for about 4 months.
As an added bonus, bird shit and tree sap seems to disappear as soon as you drive in the rain!
ps. I have no connection to the seller or product companyPosted 5 years agoTreksterSubscriber
New car so just wanting to get some good protection on it asapPosted 5 years ago
Son uses products from; http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Special_Offers.html
Regarding New Car Protection.
TRIBOS is worth a look, developed for Boats (very harsh environment) and guaranteed for 4 Years.
That Mantis stuff, it’s a good job they include a scratch remover in the kit to remove the scratches caused by washing a car without any water using the Instant Shine 😉
Providing you keep using it, it will look good because its packed full of fillers to cover up the scratches it’s causing.
If it was washed and decontaminated properly, and the paint stripped of all the fillers, it would look shocking !Posted 5 years ago
If you want a durable wax then put some collinte 476 on it over the winter and then get a decent wax for when it gets warmer.
If it’s a brand new car and you are polishing it by hand before applying wax then use something like autoglym super resin polish or meguiars deep crystal polishPosted 5 years agoJujuuk68Member
I used to use MER when I had a car – and always got fantastic results. Indeed, it managed to turn an old Morris Minor I had into a half gleaming battleship grey you could see your face in (and for a non metalic, grey, thats an achievement), and half yellow dulled tinted grey, simply because I ran out of time – and for the next 3 months the car looked like it was 2 from the scrappie, welded together in the middle!
Used it on an old orange alfa to discover it really was red as well. Never seemed cheap, and took ages to apply and wipe off again, but I would buy a bottle again if I had a car.Posted 5 years ago
@nealglover. How do you find the paint thickNess on the Mazda? I’ve got a Mazda 6 with metallic blue paint and the depth readings were very low and as such I couldn’t remove a lot of the deeper marks without fear of burning through the topcoat!! Used meguiars 205 in the end.
I’ve just bought a product called ceramishield which is a protective ceramic coating so probably a bit like the stuff you recommend above only it cost £25 and lasts around a year or soPosted 5 years ago
It was 9 hours mainly due to paintwork damage caused by a previous “Valeter” doing a poor job and causing swirl marks on every panel.
So those needed to be Machine Polished to get a decent finish for the Paint Protection.
Machine polishing and prep took up most of the morning.
Stunning finish in the end though, I was more than happy 🙂Posted 5 years ago
Rachel, would be better to do it before its driven, otherwise it will need a load of prep work before the coatings can be applied. And it needs 12 hours curing time which needs to be indoors because it needs to be totally dry while curing.
Where is the dealership ?Posted 5 years ago
Renton, Mazda Paint is pretty thin generally, but swirl marks aren’t a problem, deeper marks can be difficult and need smart repair.
Not heard of the stuff you have bought, in my experience, anything that applied by hand rather than using an Orbital or DA machine won’t last more than a couple of months, but to be honest at that price, its worth a shot.Posted 5 years ago
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