Done it on my Open U.P with 650b Thunder Burts.

fatbikeandcoffee

…Sadly as much as I love the fat bike I think the weight, drag etc over a huge distance (no snow) is going to make it  much harder than it needs to be…

The drag is all to do with the tyres.

Put a set of slick fat tyres on it and you’ll be amazed at the difference.

I put Black Floyds on my fatbike a few years back and found it worked very well on gravel, and really was only limited by slimy surfaces.

It’s a perfectly viable (and very comfortable) solution.

Alternatively if you you are worried about a lack of tread a set of Larrys is also not draggy.

The main thing is to get a tyre with a big thread count, eg 120tpi, and you’ll usually find it rolls easier.

Chubbyish 29er light HT for me.

I’ve done the SDW a few times. Bikes went from a rigid, canti’d dogs bolx to a very old FS which I think was called an Alpine 500. The later gave me the quickest time <10 hrs.

If I had to do it again it would be on a gravel bike but the most suitable would probably be a modern 100mm FS. Would have thought an Anthem 29 would be a reasonably priced appropriate choice.

Canyon Dude 8 is ~12.5Kg IIRC, ~4.5Kg lighter than my default Wazoo, partly thanks to those BR2300 wheels that weigh just 2.3Kg compared to 3.9Kg plus that lovely carbon frame it has.

To give a perspective on fastest vs slowest, I set-out on a SDW double 2 years ago co-incidentally with another guy – me on rigid fatbike, the other guy on a carbon-everything XC FS. We we each riding our own schedule / pace so – the other guy took the faster / old route around OWH – I stuck with the route I know. 11 hours later our paths crossed at Eastbourne – I was about 25 minutes behind riding the longer route – about 4% difference.

There’s as much benefit in riding the bike you know rather than choosing the “fastest”, “lightest” or whatever. Over longer distances you need to look at comfort as much as anything, for some that might mean FS, for others it might be bigger volume tyres. It might just be adjusting your riding position, fitting a riser stem, etc.

Personally, I’d say a 100mm XC orientated 29er FS.

But having done the Trans Cambrian on a fat bike with Jumbo Jim TLE Snakeskin tyres, for all day plodding they’re pretty good fun and you can get away with some crazy stuff (in my world of XC gnarcore shred lite)on loose down hills

I use a rigid 29er for these things.  I fitted suspension forks to it once which was of course lovely on the rocky trails but somehow not as nice to ride otherwise.  The reason I like the rigid aspect is that it’s a brilliant place to sit and pedal.  It feels so postive, and there are no compromises required to deal with the suspension.  And you can stand up on the pedals and stretch out and it feels much better without suspension boinging.  Even ‘locked out’ Rebas still moved around.

A plus front is probably a great idea, but depending on how much road there is in your route, as a plus front might add drag.  My tyres are 2.3 Ralphs on 28mm rims, at around 25psi.

29er tyre advice – don’t go silly light. You need some protection from the flints on sdw… The amount of punctures and torn side walls I’ve had!

I find it easier to ride further on the FS 120mm than HT 100mm even though the HT is 2kg lighter I can’t tell any difference on smooth climbs and on rough climbs the FS is better.

To give a perspective on fastest vs slowest

the comparison is  not much use if we do not know the relative fitness/speed of the riders. At races some fat bike riders are faster than me – it was not the bike it was that they were faster  than me whatever they rode.

I have only done a few 100milers off-road, but everytime it was on a rigid 29er singlespeed –  an on-one inbred. Quite comfy over that distance and time imo. 2.25/2.3 tyres for some cush too.  TBH though it was just what I was riding most at the time so really I was only ‘run what you brung’, ing.

I’ve done a few 100k offroad rides and the 29er FS wins every time.
Yes, you could probably do the ride on a CX bike, but the 29er FS will be much more comfortable and as a result more fun & enjoyable. Take the weight penalty for added comfort.

I used a 120mm trial bike for my most recent one. Yes, overkill but comfortable. It’s also had 1 set of frame bearings in about 2 1/2yrs of all weather riding of about 3000k/yr on it, so very robust.

Giant Anthem, Spec Epic & RM Element look like the perfect tools.

I’ve signed up to do the French Divide this year – 2,200km and 35,0000m climbing within 2 weeks. The option i’m going for is full suss 29er with 120mm front & 100mm rear travel. I’ve just bought a pair of super light weight gravel capable wheelset.

Will also be fitting my spa leather saddle from my touring bike – weighs best part of a kilo but super comfy saddle.

For me, I’d be looking at Brother Cycles Big Bro or something from Surly, perhaps the new Bridge Club.

@scruff9252 – I’m also doing the French Divide. Unsure whether to use the Solaris or the Croix de Fer. Neither is ideal in their current incarnation: the Solaris would need a dynamo front wheel and something like Jones  or Moloko bars; the CdF will need bigger volume tyres and some flared drops.

Looking at the previous routes no bike will be “ideal” there was 30% on road for example so a CX bike will win out there but lose out on the more technical stuff and vice versa. Reading various accounts it seems to be on the border of gravel/rigid MTB.

Preferably a dropper post as well unless most of the descents are tame

Me and my bro did SDW a few years back, both on 26ers but he had a full sus, he was less sore at the end.

I’d say a short travel (100-120mm) lightweight 29er would be ideal. It’s not like it’s the rockiest place in the world or anything, but it’s relentlessly “a bit bumpy”.

Out of my bikes at the moment I’d probably choose the 140mm hardtail over the full sus (same travel), as it’s a fair bit lighter and has a comfier saddle.

Do it on whichever bike you envisage doing the other 99.9% of your riding on.

This. Personally, for the sort of ‘general riding about’ you’re talking about I’d say short travel 29er. Hardtail or FS depending on preference- at your budget I’d probably be looking at a better specced HT over a FS, just make sure you’ve got the clearance for a decent rear tyre for comfort if you do.

Disclaimer- I have a solaris for exactly this sort of thing and if you made me downsize it’s the last one I’d sell.

I wouldn’t be taking on a rigid or cross bike at this point for what you’re doing- I have and love riding both, but if you’re stretching your mileage you’re going to be getting used to long and bumpy days in the saddle so I’d look for something that will give you comfort to actually enjoy your days out! Anyone here remember the first time they did the SDW in a day? B<span style=”font-size: 12.8px;”>y about 70 miles</span><span style=”font-size: 0.8rem;”> I could barely unclamp my hands from the ends of the bars at the bottom of the rattlier descents! More familiar with that distance now, body, bike and setup have all evolved. You can always stick a rigid fork on at a later date if you decide you like it.</span>

@whitestone – good to hear someone else from here’s signed up too.

Agree about the no ideal bike – I’m very much going for trying to complete in full time allowance rather than compete for a fast time thus going for the comfy bike.

My touring bike has a 3w dynamo front wheel – I’m likely to steal that for the event – need to fit a ~2″ tyre on it and then do some rides – see what sort of real world output i’m likely to get off road. I just hope enough to charge a battery which in turn keep my garmin 810 with enough juice to avoid getting lost.

Have you given any consideration to the medical certificate you are supposed to supply to say your fit and not going to die? There seems to be some chat on ironman forums about IM france needing these but UK dr’s being reticent to provide certificates as it could lead to liability/litigation.

Do it on whichever bike you envisage doing the other 99.9% of your riding on.

I think this is good advice.

Anthem as above. My brother had one of the first ones from 2006 and I think they have made decent models every year ever since.

I’m still riding a 2006 Anthem (occasionally) and it’s been great for everything from local trails to 100+ mile offroad days.

steel hardtail, whatever wheelsize you prefer

@scruff9252 – my wife’s doing it as well – it was her idea in the first place and I didn’t fancy dot watching for two weeks. 🙂

Unsure about the medial certificate, my first thought was that I’d need sufficient time to get an appointment to actually see a doctor! I’ve no idea what the certificate is meant to say or to what level of detail. Do you need an ECG test for example? (The only ECG I’ve had was prior to an operation and the machine went ballistic. It turned out my resting heart rate was so low the machine thought I’d died!) One of our neighbours was the head GP in the local practice so I’ll have a word with him.

Canyon neuron.

I did the Kielder 100 (the old hundred miler) twice on a Scandal 29er. First time rigid, second time with 100mm front fork and slightly higher riser bars. Both times with a Brooks saddle and an alfine hub.

Stanton Sherpa with a rigid steel fork and 27.5+ wheels

Defo a 29er and probably a hardtail depending on how rough the may be, decent comfy saddle and good padding in your shorts as your arse will give out before your legs imo ………good luck

An FS cuts against the need to minimise complexity and bouncers aren’t the only way to make a bike comfortable offroad Something rigid (simplest option) or maybe a HT that is 29er / 27+ compatible and two wheelset?

For hot weather and hard baked ruts use the 27+ for some cush, for mud and slop stick on the 29″ wheels with 2.1ish mud plugging tyres…

There’s a few bikes about that will do this now…

Id go for a short travel FS 29er but my day to day riding wouldn’t suit it.

Did it 2 years ago on my t130 and will be doing it again this year on it for the BHF. others were faster but I was comfortable all the way and felt freshish at the end.

Now tyre selection is my head ache this year……

PS: My mate used his 2015 Specialized S-Works Enduro 29er. He did fine & was very comfortable. I think he’s planning doing the HT550 on it next year.

Marin Quake for the ultimate workout.

I’ve done a couple of 100 mile or thereabouts off road rides. Both solo, weren’t against the clock, just taking my time.

I’d probably go with the one you know and are comfortable with — just checked and confirmed both those rides were on my general purpose ‘cross / gravel bike, but would be happy to do it on my rigid bike as well, plus tyres would help or29r for easy rolling..

I’ve done both, multiple of times. Used my Scott Spark 740 27.5″ wheel full sus XC bike. If I were doing SDW again I’d be looking at taking the Spark. The 29er version would be absolutely perfect, but as an all rounder, the 27.5″ would be the better option.

Good luck with SDW. Train for hills, hills and more hills. L2B off road isn’t too bad, just the last climb. Enjoy the last descent to Hove.

I think my Tallboy has done around 30 SDW’s by now – got one planned for the early May bank holiday if the chalk dries up a little. In the early days I used Small Block 8’s, then Thunder Burts. Running Race Kings with race sealant these days – that stuff clogs up some massive holes. Going to do it without the tribar setup for once as I’ll be down on Dartmoor the week before, so it will look just like a normal bike for once.

As usual, its all about the pace – steady on all the ups, work hard on the flats and give it everything on the downhills.

Remember to look around – it changes everytime I’m there!

I did the SDW on a rigid scandal 29er with Spesh ground control 2.1’s a few years back. Rock-hard trails, sunny and a pit stop at an ice cream van (and commuting as training) helped me to a <12 hr time. But, my body was well rattled by the terrain.

So last year I attempted the SDW double on the same scandal but had Revs fitted (I think they’re 120mm), and that made a noticeable difference in terms of smoothing out the terrain. That gave me more physical energy.

Will have another go at the double on the same frame/fork set-up but different saddle and 2.3’s or 2.4’s. It seems ‘what tyres’ are a much more important consideration with people and the industry coming round to the idea that fatter tyres have benefits that outweigh their weight.

Another vote for the Anthem 29er. I’ve had the 26” version as well, bothe very capable bikes that’ll surprise you how capable they are, but at the same time easy miles with an efficient pedalling platform. I will admit I’ve ended up with 120mm forks on both of mine, but that’s because I’m a serial swapper and I found a good deal.

ti Stooge.

Does not matter what bike you have on the SDW but one with no brakes would be my recommendation. Got a tank slapper on descending Harting Down and straight to the scene of the accident. If its white its rock and if its wet its too late.

100 miles offroad in one day is a bloody good ride, even on easy terrain.

i wouldn’t use a newly acquired bike for that, id want to make sure i was used to the position on it first.

personally, i have a surly karate monkey, fully rigid, I’d use that, it has a brooks saddle, and a skinny 27.2 seatpost, ergon type grips, wideish tyres at a slightly lower pressure.

i wouldn’t make any changes in the last couple of weeks to position or anything.

and id take a stove/tea making equipment, a quick cuppa can really perk you up.

i definitely wouldn’t rule out a full suss bike though.