My ‘good’ waterproof needs a wash, and some refreshing of the DWR probably wouldn’t do it any harm. It’s made from Pertex Shield+.

Now, my previous attempts at washing and re-proofing waterproofs have typically resulted in a waterproof that’s clean but not, well, very waterproof, so I don’t want to balls it up. I do have, for the first time, a tumble dryer, which I believe is A Good Thing when it comes to this kinda thing.

So, what are folks’ recommendations for a) process and b) products that’ll help me do a decent job?

Same as the manufacturers’.

Wash with Tech Wash or similar. Reproofing, now that’s harder. It never seems to be very good, so this time I’ve gone with Nikwax spray-on and rubbing it into the fabric as I go, pausing to let it try slightly. To try and prevent it running off.

I’ve tried several times following instructions to the letter. Without fail garments have become clean, but no longer waterproof.

Last time I used Fabsil Gold brush on instead – That did make clothes waterproof again, but I think degraded the breathability.

I didnt think waterproof fabric can cease to be waterproof(unless it has holes in), I thought the hydrophobic nature of the coating would stop working meaning the fabric would wet out and stop being breathable.

Yeah I have never lost waterproofness after washing, but I have lost water-repellency which means it’s not breathable any more when wet.

Yeah I have never lost waterproofness after washing, but I have lost water-repellency which means it’s not breathable any more when wet.

Yeah, this is what I mean really

1. Remove drawer thing from washing machines and rinse under hot water to remove any traces of detergent or fabric conditioner that wife insists smells nice, but ruin the wicking, breathability and waterproofness of Waterproofs
2. Wash item with Nikwax Tech Wash as per their instructions
3. Tumble dry item on a low heat to reactivate the DWR

If the item is still wetting out after this, then the DWR is knackered and it needs reproofed, I use TX.Direct Wash-In, again following Nikwax’s instructions.

I run a hot cycle on the washing machine first, empty or with something already clean e.g. a towel. Waste of energy, but cuts down the detergent residues. Then Nikwax tech wash etc.

You have to clean your washing machine drawer of washing power and fabric softener first. Then best to run it on its self clean cycle if it has one or like others said run it on a hot wash without any washing powder etc.
Then use Nikwax Tech Wash to wash your waterproofs, then use their TX Direct Wash-in to reproof or use the TX Direct spray on (I’ve used both and both work equally well).

All my waterproofs have been significantly better after doing this, back to like new. Yyou can even do it with non waterproofs to add a ‘DWR’ coating.

I’ve used the Storm wash+wax stuff(unsure of name, blue and green lid bottles)
You wash it in their separate wash and wax type stuff, then put it in the tumble drier so it activates and forms a DWR as if out of the factory

Cheers all.

Bookmarking

Unfortunately, since they outlawed the fluorocarbons that made water repellent coatings actually water repellent, I haven’t found any aftermarket treatment to be effective for any length of time. My current Montane jacket wets out instantly in even light rain, although the water doesn’t penetrate through the fabric. Seems like the shakedry/outdry is they way to go in the future, I’d they can solve the durability issues of having the PTFE on the outside…

Only thing to add, which came from the manufacturer of my Dirtlj products, was

“if you can find a product called impragnol then use that. We find that Nikwax contains something that attacks the membrane and zippers of our products. If you can’t source Impragnol then you are only really left with Nikwax so go with that”

My experience is that all WP garments lose waterproofness if you wash them too often; each wash degrades the fabric, and no amount of re=treatment really solves things. But not washing stuff leads to a build up of oils and grease on the fabric surface, which further degrades the waterproofness. The real secret to keeping a garment fully waterpoof indefinitely is….

…never using it.

Ban fabric conditioner from the house.
Clean the detergent tray and then run a hot wash to clean the machine
Wash according to instructions, don’t wash too often.
If allowed, cool tumbledry works wonders on Goretex etc.

Yeah not all jackets allow tumble drying. If they don’t, steam iron it. You feel like a pillock ironing waterproofs but it works.

I didnt think waterproof fabric can cease to be waterproof(unless it has holes in), I thought the hydrophobic nature of the coating would stop working meaning the fabric would wet out and stop being breathable

Many modern fabrics rely on the dwr for both water resistance and breathability. The problem as steezysix points out is that the dwr treatments are significantly less effective than those of a few years ago. It’s something most manufacturers aren’t too keen to talk about, the fact that their jackets are significantly shitter than those of a decade ago.

Following with interest. I have a Gore jacket that will need doing when the weather turns, but don’t have a tumble dryer.

@molgrips what is the method with an iron? Is the lowest setting sufficient or do you put a tea-towel on it and iron over that?

Your jacket will (rather unexpectedly) have ironing on the care label. I think my eVent one is two dots. You’ll be the best dressed walker on the hill. Mercifully eVent doesn’t seem to hold a crease 🙂

NikWax Techwash and then TX Direct Wash-In (you can do the second straight afterwards without even removing the items from the washing machine.

Clean the machine beforehand and wash out the detergent drawer.

It’s never as good after washing, there’s a fine line between washing it too much which ruins the coating and not washing it enough which builds up dirt and sweat etc in the pores. I’ve got an old Rapha jacket which was perfect when I first got it and now wets out pretty quickly (although it’s still waterproof).
I’d quite like a ShakeDry but equally, I don’t think I ride enough in the rain to actually justify one!

I’ve done this a handful of times and as above the waterproof is never quite the same. Also that Tx tech wash never really gets much dirt out either, so I’ve taken to hardly ever washing them unless getting really scuzzy.

I have really good results with washing things in techwash. Key issues are rinse the machine properly first. I pour boiling water down the soap dispenser and run a long hot cycle then a med cool cycle – even after the first long hot cycle you can still see and smell detergent in the machine.

I also never use fabric conditioner so my machine is not contaminated with that.

If the outside of one of my jackets is dirty – I usually rinse it whilst I am in the shower – removing before I start using shoal to clean myself. That rapid rinsing after use seems to help somewhat.

If it needs a proper wash – I do as suggested above, removing the detergent door and making sure there is no residue. Then as above either the hottest wash cycle or self-cleaning depending on the machine.

Then follow the instructions for the cleaning and reproofing products.

As already stated, you’ve got to get the inside of the washing machine scrupulously clean before you use the re-proofer.

I try to prepare a collection of bedding and towels.Then it all goes in the washing machine without adding any detergent, as the fibres will contain some residue from the previous wash.

It may take several attempts to remove any soapy residue.

Adding some ‘white’ vinegar helps immensely in the rinsing stage.

Once the machine is clean, you can then remove these items for drying and load in your waterproofs, etc.

Fwiw, I’ve never had any problems with nikwax. Their detergent has transformed some pretty vile waterproofs, and their re-proofer has improved on the waterproofness of all my waterproofs.

And I never bother putting the detergent into the washing machines drawer. I opt for one of those clear plastic balls that goes into the drum.

Good luck😊

The tumble drying thing (or ironing) will only have an effect if your jacket originally had PFCs on it. If it’s one of the newer, more environmentally friendly ones don’t bother. Just use Tech Wash and then TX Direct.

Re tumble-drying:

I soaked 2/3 of a bottle of spray on Nikwax TX-Direct into my eVent jacket. Took it out in the rain for 5 minutes and it had lots of droplets soaking into it already. I ironed it, no difference. I tumble-dried it and it was much better, with almost no soaking in at all.

I play this game a lot as I operate really warm and am out in all weather with the doggo.

I use a large yellow builders bucket rather than the washing machine so I can let my gear soak and knowing it’s never had fabric conditioner in it.

Techwash is the same as Soapflakes

Let it soak then rinse well with a hosepipe or the showerhead, repeat but with wash in TX. Splosh around for a bit, rinse and then bung it in tumble drier.

C6 PCF based proofers are still available but are a bit naughty to be selling/using knowing what we know now about them.

You can avoid all this care hassle by just buying Buffalo/pile&pertex instead

Buffalo is in no way a substitute for a waterproof. It may be usable for some conditions but it’s not the same thing.

Buffalo is in no way a substitute for a waterproof

You’re not the boss of me. I’m off out to do intervals in my extreme smock

This is why i never machine wash my waterproof. Once they go near a washing machine they are on the path to useless. I give it a hose down after a very muddy ride (inside and out) and then leave to dry outside.

The bucket wash idea is a good one, however I’d not avoid washing it altogether because the dirt and general grime is also quite bad for it.